Start Positions

[Frank]

I have a fixture I use for one of my carvings that I make more than one of. Every time I start a new carving I have to reposition the cutter over the start point. The machine gives you options of setting the center of the work but my work is not in the center of the fixture. It also gives me the option of using the corner fo the fixture as a start point but that is no good. The last option is to jog to a start point which is what I do. The problem is I know I am not jogging to the same point all the time. Is there a way to jog to the start point on the first carving then return to that exact point for the remaining set carvings?

[DocWheeler]

Frank,

If I'm following you correctly - that you are using a sled that you made for another project, then if you centered the current project on a "board" in Designer the same size as the sled, you would simply tell it to place it in the center. Making sure that you select to Not stay under the rollers (nor scale nor cut to length).

[Digitalwoodshop]

I use the option 3 place on the end of board. I set a box in designer the known distance from the right side of the designer to the beginning of my project on the board. Then place the item on the board the same place every time.

Like my bear in the picture. The scrap is accounted for in designer as a blank spot on the right.

AL

The masking tape area is the stay under the rollers wood and is a blank area on the right side of designer. Was using scraps to cut bears on a carrier board, a sled with no sides.

[Frank]

Thank you for the information. It is very helpful to know some of my limitations on the programing. I guess I will have to make another fixture for this particular project. I thought there might be a way to put numerical values in to set the start position. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here is what the designer looks like for the Bear on a carrier board made of 1/4 inch plywood and a 3.5 inch scrap block to always give me 3.5 inches extra under the roller.

I place the wood on the Carrier board and masking tape it down. Cut the 2 bears then cut the bears off on the radial arm saw and start over. When the board is too short to leave 3.5 inches under the back end I tape a piece of scrap wood on the back end.

For the clocks I just cut all the blanks and left the 3.5 inch scrap on both ends of the carrier and just changed the clock blank.

AL

Sample1 is in 1.120