Too many problems

[weimar_police]

I was enamored with the compucarve and I think I am giving up far easier than I usually do on something. But, I am just not having fun. Reading all the issues here on the forum; do this to fix this, do that to fix that, and not from just a few folks, it is time and time again. Why doesn't it just work?

Today the flapper thing would not pop out for the bit to find its depth, and after messing with it; when it did, it didn't register or work. Why would you make something that had a moving part? It should go over to a set (immovable) area and check the depth of the bit.

But my biggest complaint is the lack of quality it does for carving. Yes, I am sure I am doing something wrong, but I have carved several patterns from carvewright and made my own; all with poor carving.


There are huge assumptions that folks know wood carving when they get the machine. I don't, so why isn't there somewhere that helps with that? When I asked, I was told, this forum has your answers. Well, doing searches just brings up a lot of threads; someone who is paid by compucarve should consolidate and place all the pertinent information into FAQ (I have done that for the forums I moderate, saves a lot of time).

Telling folks to do a search on 'bit plate' causes numerous (numerous...)pages to come up. And if you don't use the ' ' then it states the word search letter is under four letters. ...No kidding, bit is a 3 letter word. Aren't folks going to want to do searches on just bit?

I have less than 10 hours on the machine, but I must have put in over 80 hours on trying to get the patterns to work correctly / look nice.

Overall, this is just not fun; I spent money on something that I thought would be fun to help me carve, not worry about pieces falling off; carve bits not working right, X and Z not working right, etc, etc, etc

And keeping a wood carving machine spotless clean, well, I don't have a woodshop like you guys seem to; that is why I bought a compucarve. I have vacumed it and wiped it down... Why is it assumed I would have a air hose... That is what everyone says and then they say, don't blow it out....

[liquidguitars]

I was enamored with the compucarve and I think I am giving up far easier than I usually do on something. But, I am just not having fun.

The CW can be a pain and it will just get harder untill you
get a feel for it. kinda like working a steem engine ;) hard to start but will run all day..


And keeping a wood carving machine spotless clean, well, I don't have a woodshop like you guys seem to; that is why I bought a compucarve. I have vacumed it and wiped it down... Why is it assumed I would have a air hose... That is what everyone says and then they say, don't blow it out....

At some point you will need a air hose, when you get one just set the pressure down to 36 lBS


LG

[GREG123]

BINGO !! I too am a Struggling Wood Worker and wanted to get into something like this for fun and maybe a few extra bucks towards my beer bill.. Why a "Training/Information Video" isn't a part of the initial purchase is mind boggling.. One person told me a video would be out shortly and another told me that person was fired and they DON'T have a Training Video.. I had to ship mine back twice and the box looks like it came back with me from Vietnam.. I think the four pounds of tape held the whole thing together..
The Forum is fantastic and full of information for the operation and maintenance of the Comp-U-Carve. HOWEVER, I too don't understand half of what is posted, or less. I love it when some say "Use a piece of scrap Lumber". Hmmm, for a 12" X 12" test carve, I'd need a pint of glue and four clamps to come up with a test piece! The average scrap bin might have a couple of 2x4 pieces or some 1/2" plywood - I think. I might even have some quarter round or cove molding in my bin.. I had to go out and BUY scrap lumber..
BUT, I can say that when working with 3/4" X 12" Oak for my plaques and using mainly the 1/16" bit along with Centerline with 60 and 90 degree bits, they have turned out pretty damn nice. I think the harder the wood, the better the results. (That's what she said too) An cheap paint brush and your vacuum cleaner does a pretty good job of cleaning the machine. I have a small air compressure but don't use it after every job. Maybe if I was exposed to this forum I would have thought twice about buying one??

later
gas

[hray]

:roll:The Leartng Curve May Look Long But It Get Easyer As You Go Along

[mtylerfl]

Hello gas,

There are several excellent online CarveWright software Training Videos located at..
http://www.carvewright.com/tutorials.html

...in addition, you should be receiving the monthly Tips and Tricks Newsletters if you have signed up for the mailing list at the CarveWright homepage. If you need to download any newsletters you may have missed, they are availble here: http://www.carvewright.com/tips.html

[Rickrljones]

Seems to me that new owners of the CC/CW are afraid of breaking the machine. After spending 2 grand on it. I've found out the the major problem with this machine is "OPERATOR ERROR". LHR gives a full one year replacement on parts that we as owners break due to learning curve. It's like a weapon, if you keep it clean and oiled, you will never have any problems with it. Trying to create your own patterns will take time to perfect. It's like buying a new vehicle, you have to work out the bugs first, then it will run fine.
Just my 2 cents worth
Rick

[allan]

I am in the Denver area and recently purchased a CarveWright machine. Is there anyone near who could come to my office and show me how to use the machine and the probe?

Also, I can't figure out where to click to post a new question. Now I attach to an existing thread because I can't figure out how to start my own?

[badger]

It's like buying a new vehicle, you have to work out the bugs first, then it will run fine.
Just my 2 cents worth
Rick


Well on a new vehicle you dont have to worry about parts falling off of it that will keep it from running.

Dont get me wrong, I have had my problems and received help from the forum members but I can understand where they are coming from and feel sorry that they dont have the time to invest in it. LHR should have stated that for the CW you should have more knowledge about woodworking then just an amatuer.

Also $2,000 is more than a junk of change for some people and if you feel a bit worried after dropping that much then this machine isnt for you with the time you will have to put into it to keep it maintained. Those that feel that way are ones that beleive spending 2 grand on a machine should work spotless for that amount of money, others in the woodworking trade know that what this machine can do for that amount is a good buy when most of the other machines will cost you 7 grand and up to do this kind of work.

Those that think you can buy this machine and start kicking projects that will make you hundreds or thousands selling works of art without the other tools that are required for a decent shop are mistaken. Those kind of projects will need the basics such as an air compressor and other tools. The CW is just one more tool in that line that will help make your projects look better but some have gone and purchased 2 or more of these machines knowing that if you use them all the time they will break down.


If you can lose 2 grand without thinking twice about just for a hobby then go for it. Me being in Law Enforcement, this is more than just a hobby, it is my stress releiver. Some cops drink or work extra jobs, I enjoy going out to my basic shop (even less tools than needed for a real woodworker) and just messing around. I have enjoyed the machine and thank god I havent had as many problems with it as some have and am now approaching 40 hours carve time with only 1 major project done, 1 small home project and almost complete a christmas present for my dad. I havent made 1 red cent on any of them and didnt really expect to buy this machine to make money. Its worth it alone just being able to use it and forget about the crap I have to put up with on the streets during my work. In the past 9 years of Law work, this is the most stress free Ive ever been.


To all the others good luck with your machines and hope they work for ya.

[mtylerfl]

I am in the Denver area and recently purchased a CarveWright machine. Is there anyone near who could come to my office and show me how to use the machine and the probe?

Also, I can't figure out where to click to post a new question. Now I attach to an existing thread because I can't figure out how to start my own?


Hello Allan,

In the meantime, you can view the online software tutorials at:
http://www.carvewright.com/tutorials.html

...also, you might find the Tips and Tricks newsletters helpful (particularly the Dec issue which covers the basic setup procedure for a project) at:
http://www.carvewright.com/tips.html

...and of course, search the forum where most questions have already been answered.

To post a new topic or question (called a "thread"), you select the appropriate Topic category first, then you will see an icon at the top of the category thread display called "New Thread". Click it, then post your title of the thread and type your message, then submit. (You do have to be a registered user - it's free).

Hope this helps!

[911guy]

I have less than 10 hours on the machine, but I must have put in over 80 hours on trying to get the patterns to work correctly / look nice.

I do agree with you there are probably too many problems that seem to arise but it really does get better as you go. I have 52 hours on mine now. As it turns out the flexshaft just melted. Had to buy another for $40 cause it wasn't part of the warranty.

Depends how bad you want to learn it and deal with it's issues. It does seem like most problems have answers right here on the forum and it got better for me. Good luck.

[dragoncarver]

i have over 80 hours on my machine and just today had to send it back for repair a short in the board sensor caused it to sense a board when it was not there i have also had all the other problems too you really need to learn how to take the machine apart and clean it the rollers will jamb in up position causing it to spit out the board take th cover off and clean the dust out you will be amazed at how much dust is in there watch fo belt roll up if it does cut it off keeping things oiled that move helps problem being dust sticks to oily surface untill the find a way to fix the dust problem keep it clean :idea:

[Ron]

hmmm?if you keep it clean you'll never have problems with it??very untrue.I have to believe that most of the readers that paid 2000.00 for the machine do keep it clean alot of times that is the least of the worries.Yes i've had problems with mine but, i still like it

[badger]

During long carves I usually blow it out about once every hour while its carving. Havent had any problems blowing it out while carving, just make sure to hold the cover down so the air doesnt raise it any.

[Gallaher]

I too am nervous about the amount of money spent on this equipment. I got it as a gift from a person that had no idea of the number of problems it has.

I've had an error every carve. I have not had one run yet without a check motor alarm between 5% and 20%. Now I'm getting the close door alarm that does not clear because of the cheep unsealed switches used by the manufacturer. I knew from the forums that the switch has saw dust in it. I made the mistake of pressing stop after opening and closing the door several times to clears the dust resetting a three hour carving at 60% completion.

I understand there is a learning curve. And yes it was my fault that I pressed "stop" rather than "enter" while trying to clear a fault. I'm coming close to 10 hours of carving without a usable piece of work.

I've soaked the flex shaft in Moly Lube. Using my laser temp, I'm still seeing temps up to 150 degrees after an hour of carving. I've stopped halfway through a project just to let the thing cool down only to get a fault when I start again.

I've also found out early that pine is not hardy enough for carving in this machine. It is frustrating to turn oak or poplar wood at $5 a foot into sawdust.

And can someone tell me why this electronic piece of equipment is not grounded? I've had the screen go blank on me when I tried to keep the machine clean with a shop vac. The static discharge zaps the display board. This is reminds me of the drills that used to shock people because they were not grounded and had metal cases. Grounding electronic equipment with a three prong plug is not rocket science.

I'm sorry but the complaints I've read are well justified. The shotty construction / workmanship should not be excusable just because the machine does something special that more expensive machines do. How hard or expensive is it to put a three wire plug onto equipment known to generate static charges. And couldn't they have used sealed switches? Mag flashlight switches are self cleaning and can be used under water. The switches on my $100 wet saw can stand up to dust and water. What does a dust proof switch cost $2 maybe $3? For a piece of equipment that they charge close to $2000. Come on. I haven't even looked at the ribbon cable yet or the connectors used there.

The machine case looks structurally sound because they used a previously designed planer case for this router. God only knows what else would be breaking all the time if they had designed the case too.

This is a cool new gadget that has the capability of making some cool looking things that you can say, "look what I did." That said, they should not be let off the hook for letting a China factory make it with cheep shotty parts.

I got mine as a gift so I'll run it until it dies. If that is in the next 90 days I'll return it to sears for store credit. If I'm charged a restocking fee, I'll sue Sears for selling known defective equipment.

That is my other hobby, suing people, governments, and companies. I find legal case work just as entertaining, less frustrating and more profitable. I can also point to my case law and say, "look what I did."

:rolleyes:

Well let me go and get another motor alarm.

[oldjoe]

I know these machines are frustrating, I bought mine about 7 months ago and the first one went down after about 3 hours of carving, took it right back number 2 machine has been working fine. But it has had some problems also, (2) board sensors and a Z pack. It does bother me when it has problems and I do agree maybe increase the quality of the machine parts even if it means raising the price a few dollars. But I also work around $200,000.00 machines and let me tell you they have lots of problems too and they are not made in China one was made in Italy.
But one of the biggest reasons I stuck with the machine is the Customer Service at LHR, it is great. Yes they can be hard to get ahold of but when I have, the parts are shipped out the same day. And working in customer service can not be a fun job because the only phone calls your going to get are unhappy disgruntled people who want you to solve there problems. So hang in there and you will have a machine that you will be able to say look at what I did. And LHR I am sure is working on improving their parts for their machines they did it for the Z packs,
And I carve pine all the time and it comes out with little fuzzies but it cleans up fine.
Good Luck Guys

[Jeff_Birt]

That is my other hobby, suing people, governments, and companies. I find legal case work just as entertaining, less frustrating and more profitable. I can also point to my case law and say, "look what I did."

Great :rolleyes:, what an interesting hobby:confused:

[forqnc]

Yes there have been problems, I myself posted a couple of months back that mine was up for sale. Since then I have been able to allow more time for using the machine and I have clocked over 20 hours.
My opinion on why it has been (touches wood here) running smoothly;

- I have not tried to rush carvings in between other things that I gotta get done,
- I have stepped back and double checked myself,
- bolted my machine to my bench, which may have reduce vibration,
- cleaned and lubed the chuck and bits after use,
- use vacuum and compressed air to clean after every carving. The machine is turned off, the bit is left in the chuck and the card in the reader slot,
- I have installed a down draft vacuum system. The down draft I think has been the biggest improvement for me. There is still a little clean up, but nowhere near as much as before; especially up top where all the electronics and motors are.

I think the problem is in advertising. Like any product that is sold, advertising is hyped up for what the product does, NOT what is involved in getting the great results they tells us about. Like any big purchase I buy I research before hand, with the CC/CW I am lucky that I have knowledge with computer/software, wood types and also have worked around CNC machines for 21 years.

Good Luck to all CC/CW carvers.

[Gallaher]

I must be using some soft pine with large groath rings. ;)
It broke apart when I tried to make the winds grill piece.
I was able to get one carved out of poplar but I had in the wrong board depth settings. AARRRRR.... I under stand this was my fault.
That is where I agree there is a learning curve on using the program and machine.

I like keeping all my tools clean before, during, and after use. I keep the compressor hose and vac close by but will only use it after a piece is completed. The use of them to fix one problem seems to make things worse in other areas if used at inappropriate times.

I know I need to keep the thing clean so I vacuum and blow the thing out, but if I use a shop vac while the machine is on it zaps the display board. Try using compressed air and saw dust fly into the upper door switches.

I don't see anyway to keep the machine clear of sawdust without an attached vacuum system. It looks like a suction slit down the middle would be best but I don't think a normal size shop vac will do the trick. Has anyone done this?

The machine must be off before using the shop vac and the machine must be vacuumed before using compressed air to blow out the rest (this prevents to much saw dust from blowing around into the switches). Yes, this is dumb stuff, but again part of the learning curve. I tended to use compressed air to blow off the work while it was being made so that I could see it. Better to just wait.
I don't know what to do about the flex shaft. I've used Moly Lube and the shaft still heats up to around 150 degrees after about an hour of work. I tend to monitor it with my laser temp just because I know there is a problem with heat. There is a temp strip that I use on heat sensitive parts of the helicopter I fly. It gets darker as the temp rises and gives an indication of the highest temp reached during flight. These temp strips are checked before each flight on the Robinson R22 and the R44. I'll see if I can find out where to get these temp strips and pass it along here. They will let you know when bearings are burning up or your transmission is getting ready to go.

Maybe they could be put on the motor, shaft and head assembly. :idea:


Well back to making more sawdust. :rolleyes:

As I was writing forqnc answered my vac question.

[DocWheeler]

Gallaher,

Search on "down draft table", a lot of info here.

[twehr]

- I have installed a down draft vacuum system. The down draft I think has been the biggest improvement for me.

I, too, installed a down draft vacuum. For me, it has proven little value. I am curious to know if you normally use a sled.

I use a sled for nearly every cut. The sled is 14" wide, so it doesn't seem to allow much sawdust to get to the bottom of the machine. All the dust collects (piles up) on top of the sled. Or is it that I just need a stronger vacuum?

[LollyWood]

Twehr,
I was having very simular probs not too long ago w/ carves using MDF. Ken and Doc Wheeler were Great help with both sleds and dust control. Esp the down draft. It works well enough w/ woods, but it's fantastic w/ very fine dust. Take a look. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5048. This was a simple modification to my CC cart and shop vac system. I have been able to do some carves indoors w/ these mods. and it has even cut down some of the noise. (wife likes that hehehehe) Just some of ideas I've stolen from the gurus. :) Down draft is well worth the extra modification. Just my 2c.

Bernie :^)

[benluz]

While the carvewright has it's problems, and as you have heard here other more costly machines can have problems as well and as far as competition in this price range ,there is none.About 8 month ago I purchased a full size cnc, a shopsabre for around 34,000 with all the bells and whistles and another 10k in software.While this machine has not had an error to date,does not mean I won't have problems in the future,but I don't expect any ,it's built like a tank.I believe the carvewright is a great design and the hobbyist here should stick with them for there is not much else that can do what it does in this price range.And the CW will get better and better as time goes by. Oh...and I still use my carvewright several times each week.
Ben

[Hexe SA]

I've made fancy, expensive firewood myself, plenty off it.
It is worth to carve on best even pine, keep it clean. I vacuum and blow out every 10 - 15 %. Check everytime the flex shaft and your bits with holders, no exception keep all of it lubed and clean. Check your gears and quick change before carve. Clean your board sensor before and after. I'm on the second machine with 70 hours. The first one had problems caused by miscommunication between LHR and me about the probe. After I send the second machine in (after 18 hrs)for the new z-pack, it works like the video. Before the machine I had zero, none wood working let alone carving experience. I had all of the errors, bit plate, z,x,y axis, close cover, edge problems, etc. I wouldn't trade my machine for anything. Remember this is not industrial strength.
Eva

[TIMCOSBY]

i got mine about 3 months ago and the only prob was the close door error...tighten screws no more problem it just carves and carves not picky about the boards or cleanliness...... so.... i go buy another one last week lo and behold this new one is a tempermental beitch.. board errors... z stalls what the heck is going on....lubbed the shaft befor starting it is still hot.. the motor doesn't sound like the other one at all it is surging and getting a harmonic sound going sometimes.. the shaft vibrates a lot when cutting my old one doesn't... hmmmm now i see waht evryone is talking about.. this new one goes back for a refund you all shouldn't be puttin up with it either... take them back till you get a good one.

[Gallaher]

Thanks for the heads up on the close door alarm being lose screws. After close inspection the door switches were not dirty. The back switch was clicking closed, but the front switch looks like it was installed a little to far back for the door to activate it. I was able to complete a project today but it took 20 min to clear the close door and board sensor alarms.

I did not stop this carve for fear of another door alarm. After the carving was complete I began my clean up. Low and behold I find a piece of the machine has broken off.

The two pronged piece of black plastic about 3/8 of an inch in size, appears to have a diode symbol on one side and two broken leads that lead into the other side of the piece. :confused:

This looks like some kind of sensor. It has now been bagged and tagged.

I can see the biggest learning curve is going to be maintenance and repair. :rolleyes:

I really like the concept but I am seriously rethinking this wood working idea. This $2000 machine does not look like it is going to last long enough to get my money's worth out of it and $4000 looks like the next step up.

The question now is should I just have my every once and a while carving project made on a $30,000 to $300,000 pro machine by someone else? And what will they charge? Or do I spend the next few years repairing this thing.

[forqnc]

I, too, installed a down draft vacuum. For me, it has proven little value. I am curious to know if you normally use a sled.

I use a sled for nearly every cut. The sled is 14" wide, so it doesn't seem to allow much sawdust to get to the bottom of the machine. All the dust collects (piles up) on top of the sled. Or is it that I just need a stronger vacuum?

No I have not used a sled yet. The widest board I have used is 11.25 and I do notice more clean up with that, but most of the sawdust comes out on the board. I can see how a 14" board would cover the down draft hole and reduce suction. If I get to carving wider boards I may have to re-address my system for suction.

[Jeff_Birt]

The two pronged piece of black plastic about 3/8 of an inch in size, appears to have a diode symbol on one side and two broken leads that lead into the other side of the piece. :confused:


That's part of the old home sensor that is no longer used/needed. Do a quick search on 'home sensor' for more information.