Error: SRAM 3 10682666

[hwdesigns]

Started up my machine after a week of non-use, and was presented with this error code immediately.

SRAM 3 10682666

Machine is then locked up, nothing works. Anyone have experience with this? Too late to call tech service tonight.

I guess my grandson's project won't get finished tonight as scheduled.

[Jeff_Birt]

How warm is your shop? The machine is warm blooded, I think CW recommends a minimum temperature of 55 degrees F (might want to check the users guide to be sure). It would also be worth turning off the machine pulling out the memory card and receiving it. If that doesn't work try reformatting your card.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Condensation in the computer will FRY the Electronics.... Cold Shop, Damp Shop, Heat shop before use might not get all the moisture out.

AL

[hwdesigns]

My shop is heated, maintained at 69 degrees. Humidity (it's winter here in Minnesota) is low, about 45%. So, I don't think the problem is condensation. Actually, in heated spaces, we worry more about low humidity that high humidity.

Sounds like your belief is that the electronics is fried. That is not good news.

Gene

ps: Oh, by the way, I already tried reformatting the card. No change. Also tried the unplug it, wait, and plug it routine. Also no change.

Will greatly appreciate any other ideas (besides calling tech service tomorrow, of course).

[oldjoe]

Gene where abouts in the land of 10,000 lakes are you? Is your shop heated full time? This may sound like a dumb question but I have found some wierd things do you have mice in your shop? Sometimes they get into the strangest places, I had one crawl into a box of farmer matches and eat all the sulfer really got lucky to there were a couple of matches that had burned. God was really watching over my shop that day, Just some thoughts

[hwdesigns]

Oldjoe, yes, I leave the heat on in my shop. It is well insulated, and I've found in the distant past that allowing the temperature to drop can accelerate rust on cast iron surfaces, because the humidity levels increase as the temperature drops. So, when I rebuilt my shop last year, I insulated it very well and added a dedicated high-efficiency furnace.

This time of year, the mice are clearly looking for a warm place, and I keep bait out all the time, just in case. So far, no evidence of any mice, but sooner or later I'm sure I have one or two find a way in. Hopefully, they'll take the bait and that will be the end of them.

Location is the west side of the Twin Cities.

Gene

[hwdesigns]

I talked to Tech Service first thing this morning, and the diagnosis is that I have a bad controller card. They are sending one out to me immediately. Another example of good response from the company, as reported elsewhere on the forum.

I have also been getting the "speed-up" of the cut motor after CCM stops. Tech Service wondered if a failing controller card was the cause of that, and recommends that I replace the controller card and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't, then they will take other steps, but suggest that I can run the machine even at "full speed" without damage so long as my carves are not extremely long (several hours).

When the new controller card comes, I'll post the results in case anyone is interested.

Gene

[Dale in Anaheim]

Please do, thanks Gene.

[hwdesigns]

The new controller card (actually it is a metal box) arrived today via UPS. The carton was crushed somewhat, but the metal box inside was very well padded, so I doubt very much that any damage was done.

It's very cold here, so I'm allowing it to warm up before I remove it from the packaging, so as not to condense water on it from the warm air.

In the meantime, I guess I'd better see if there are any instructions in the forum for replacing the card. There were no instructions sent whatsoever.

I should be able to figure it out (optimist that I am).

Gene

[hwdesigns]

Sorry for the delay in posting this update. I've been too busy carving.

Installation of the new controller box was a snap. Simply lay the machine over onto its front, and remove the bottom plate (a few screws). The controller is easily accessed, and simple to replace.

I then recalibrated, as directed by tech service. That took a few minutes, but the machine seemed to know what it was doing.

Then, I cut a 2-hour project without issue. The project is a replica of an antique picture frame that a very important client (my wife) wants. I have a shop full of tools, but I honestly don't know how I would do this without the CarveWright.

Net, I'm a happy carver again.

[Digitalwoodshop]

If they don't want the controller back I would love to take it apart and see what makes it tick... Let me know, I will pay shipping and a fair value. It's the tinkerer in me.....

Reminds me of the first tube radio I ever stripped apart. I had the metal radio with all the tubes sitting on a table outside the garage. Plugged it in and it played great, changed channels, picked it up and admired the glowing filaments. Unplugged it and removed and cleaned every tube. Plugged it back in and picked it up and got the shock of my life.... 115 Volts AC.... The metal case was grounded before I removed the tubes. When I put it back together I plugged the AC cord into the outlet 180 degrees from the first time. Now the hot lead of the outlet went to the case first then through all the resistors and filaments to the switch and back into the outlet. Years ago Radio plugs had a FAT prong and a normal prong. This ensured that the smaller one, or HOT one went to the switch first then all the radio parts then to the case and back into the outlet neutral.

A valuable lesson to learn at a early age. Radios in later years used a step down transformer or isolation transformer to protect the user.

If you look at the outlets in your house they still have a fat neutral and a smaller HOT or power slot.

Sorry about the side track....

AL

[carvingbyme]

I've got a machine with an SRAM problem - has anyone tried tearing into the controller and actually fixed it versus buying a $300 one from Carvewright?

[mtylerfl]

I've got a machine with an SRAM problem - has anyone tried tearing into the controller and actually fixed it versus buying a $300 one from Carvewright?

No one that I know of.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here is a peek inside... I once did board level repairs on PlayStation 2's at the Philly SONY Service Center in the early 2000's. I had all the equipment and parts and better eyesight... I would never attempt a repair today.... I DO have all the equipment including a hot air machine and the Mantis Magnifier.... but still no.... Well.... The 3 Servo Controllers on the side wall... I would do them..... Clip the leads on the parts and remove the pins one at a time... I have done a bunch of servo controllers over the years especially when I was making picture tubes in San Diego.

Here is a Black LCD Display that was the overheated and smoked controller due to the DUST inside. A spare controller had me back up and running in a short time. A eBay find in 2008.

You could try blowing the dust out of the controller and LOOK for any BENT PINS for the memory card.

[carvingbyme]

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

[RMarkey]

U30 & U31 are the SRAM chips (M68AF127BM70MC1T), however they run through the buffer drivers at U13, U14, and U5.

Please start new threads instead of resurrecting ones from 11 years ago.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Thank You #1 :)