Routing patters

[Jim Mourer]

Hello out there. I want the machine to leave the exact sizes I drew in the software. It seems like it is not accounting for the the cutter size (1/8"). Imagine if you cut a 1" sqare block and a 1" square hole. The block into the hole would be a loose fit due to the cut material. In carpenter's terms - how can I tell it to "leave the line". Any ideas? Thanks

[Router-Jim]

I've been experimenting around with this same problem for designing and cutting router templates. I believe that the machine centers the bit on the line you design. If you design a 1" circle and use a 1/8" bit you're going to end up with a 1 1/8" circle as the 1/8" bit will add 1/16" (half the bit diameter)all the way around. Same holds true for your 1" square or any other design.


Of course you have to add or subtract depending if you are leaving the circle or cutting out the circle. Think in terms of inside diameter and outside diameter.

HTH

JIm

[Router-Jim]

In carpenter's terms - how can I tell it to "leave the line". Any ideas?

In simplier terms. Try designing a 7/8" circle or square and use the 1/8" bit.

[forqnc]

Hi Jim, Router Jim is correct that Designer defaults to cutting a cut path in the center of the tool, but when you select a cut path, a pop up comes up and you can select 'Flip Cut out'. This will position the tool outside your cut path.

A 1" circle by default will be cut 1/16th" smaller than 1" using the 1/8th" bit.
A 1" circle using flip cut out with same bit will be 1"

Hope this helps

[Ron]

Hi,I did a coat rack about a week ago with 4, 5/8" holes and put a wood dowel the same size and it turned out well.

[Kenm810]

Hey Ron,

Nice job, I like the way the corrugations look, climbing over the edges of the Chevy Bow tie is neat.http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[Ron]

Thank you Ken,I guess I try not to do anything to elaborate kind just learing

[Jim Mourer]

Thanks for the input the 'flip cut' tip is what I need -- I think. When doing cut path you give it your board thickness - like .75 and then attach scrap below the workpiece as a backer, correct? How do recommend attaching the two? Thanks again.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I ran into that with rectangles and made a cut board with holes. Now when I need a board slot cut I just look at the real world board and then at my MPC for the best numbers. You could also make a small one with depth for a hand held router height gage.

The last picture is the result of needing slots and quickly got the right size by checking the sample board. Humidity will effect the size but it is all relative.

AL

[forqnc]

Thanks for the input the 'flip cut' tip is what I need -- I think. When doing cut path you give it your board thickness - like .75 and then attach scrap below the workpiece as a backer, correct? How do recommend attaching the two? Thanks again.

You can do it that way Jim, using double sided tape to hold the two together, or if you select a cut path, the software automatically leaves small tabs to hold the piece. When its done, take a knife and cut it out.

[Jim Mourer]

Thanks again for the info. I knew the machine could do that - but I can't figure how it never touches the sandpaper under the workpiece?? Magic?

[Kenm810]

The Carving or Cutting Bits move in two directions, The "Z" Axis = up and down.
And the "y" Axis = front to back. Front being the Key Pan or handle side of the machine.
The Sand Paper or Traction Belts move on the "X " axis = Right and Left as you face the Key Pad.
So the Bits follow the slot between the belts and are never really over the belts to cut them.



Really it's just Smoke and Mirrors http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

[Jim Mourer]

I just slapped myself in the forehead really hard!