Proper use of a sled for carving small pieces

[locovalley]

I'd appreciate any advice on using a sled for carving small and odd shapped pieces and pieces that can't be kept under the rollers.

Specifically, I need to know where the piece should be placed in the sled (centered in the sled, against the near side...), whether the machine will measure the piece or do I have to manually measure the piece, etc. My sled is 48" long, 14.5" wide and 2.25" high.

If there is a thread that explains all this, if some kind soul could point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful. My search attempts had not helped me much.

Thanks in advance,
Joe

[locovalley]

To explain a little more about what I'm trying to accomplish: I have a lot of stock that I have resawn out of wood that I harvest on my ranch. These boards have been carefully dried and planed on the face and back, but the edges are irregular for the most part, and in many cases I'd like to leave the rough-cut edges intact while still using as much of the face as possible. I come across some nice grain patterns and shapes when cutting wood.

The size of the project I'm working on now is a nice piece of white oak 11" long and an irregular width around 3.5 inches and 1/2' thinck. I want to be able to carve as close to the edges of this project without worrying about staying under the rollers and such constraints.

I'd also like to able to use just one sled for various sizes of wood blanks so I don't have to build sleds for every project and so I use my time productively. I think this should be possible. I'm fuzzy on the details for placing the carving blanks in the sled so that the surface can be carved while the sides of the sled don't interfere with the mechanical parts of the machine.


Is this possible are am I just spinning my wheels in the mud? Any guidance would help. To tell the truth, I'm a little skittish about doing what I think would work and having something go horrbly wrong, like trashing the bit and Z-truck.

Thanks,
Joe

[mtylerfl]

Hello Joe,

There is a lot of great info regarding sleds and carrier boards on the Forum (just type in the word "sled" or "sleds" in the Search function).

Here's a link to just one of the threads about sleds that will help you...
http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4812&highlight=sleds

[Kenm810]

Hey Joe,

Sleds or Carrier Boards both can be used with irregular shaped project boards.
I prefer to center my board to be carved, leaving 3.5 to 4 or more inches at each end of my sleds or carriers. That way by filling in the spaces at the ends of the project with scrap material of the same height as the project, I can carve random and irregular shaped project boards of different lengths and widths on the same sled or carrier board, as long as you cover any gaps or spaces with masking tape so the board sensor doesn’t get confused and see them as the end of the board. Also if you use a sled with side rails, the rails should be equal to or a 1/16” taller then you project board.
Any area or part of the project above the rails will interfere with the pressure rollers.
If you project is not being carved to the edges of you project board, side rails may not be necessary, as the rollers will ride along the surface of your board not being carved.

[locovalley]

Thanks for the helpful advice. I'll try these methods and continue to search the forum and archives.

Joe

[locovalley]

I've tried everything I've read and then some on trying to get the machine to measure the board on the sled. It measures just fine when placed in the machine by itself but when I put it on the sled to carve I get the dreaded "sensor error". Take the board out of the sled and it works just fine.

Does anyone have an idea why this could be? I've tried using masking tape on the end of the board, white paper on rhe board, black tape on the ens of the board and it just won't measure. THe sled I built is about 3/4" wider than the board and about 12" longer than the board with rails 1/16th" taller than the project board.

I really would like to be able to carve without waisting 7" of wood on most projects, but without the sled. I even tried a carrier board with 3 1/2" blocks taped to the end of the project board but the machune won't locate the end of the board in any configuration other than a naked board. I'm beginning to think this machine hates me!

Any help would be appreciated.
Joe

[Dirtydan]

Are you taping all the seams??? The sensor can not see any edges between both ends of the sled.

Something else to try... before you load your project, measure the board. Sometimes this will work. Then select your project and the machine will not check the edges again... Don't know why this works sometime, but it does... Go figure....

[jblues71]

The only thing i can tell you is that the sensor sees the end of the board, but the switch on the compression roller is telling the board sensor that the board is still there. So now you have a sensor and a switch calling each other liars, hence the error. Had a similar problem today. It depends on where and how you tape the board. You need one strip at each end, one strip down the middle where the sensor rides while measuring the board, and one where the project is started at" when you get the clean board sensor error, slide a strip of tape under there from one side to the other" and i thats how i got around it. It's alot easier done than said though. Hope this helps.

[Dirtydan]

Ok,

There's a easy fix for that.... Try pushing the rear roller (I assume that's the one giving you trouble) up and down a few times.. If you push the options button and go down to sensor check and then to the rollers, you can see which ones are compressed and uncompressed. If pushing the stuck roller up and down a few times does not release the switch, do the following; while pushing the roller up as far as possible, shoot some compressed air in and around the micro-switch area....it's at the keypad end of the roller. Release the roller and see if the sensor check indicates that the roller is released/uncompressed. If this dosen't work, remove the four little screws at the bottom of the keyboard panel and the two bolts at the top. Move the outer panel/cover away from the machine being careful not to pull on any of the ribbon wire at the bottom of the panel/cover. Shoot some compressed air in and around the micro-switch again while pushing the roller up as far as possible. Check the switch sensors again...they both should be free now... If not, call LHR and they will tell you how to access the micro-switch and clean it. It's not that hard and your already 85% of the way there if you've followed the above directions...

Good luck

[jblues71]

My problem was that the board had a u shaped cut out at one end. The sensor would do its job and see the end of the board, and the compression roller switch would also do its job and report that it cant be the and of the board because it was still there. Both bieng true and acurate, but causing a conflict,:confused: because programing says " you can't have it both ways at the same time.". His problem sound a little different, but very similar.

[Dirtydan]

My problem was that the board had a u shaped cut out at one end.

Yes, you have to tape those edges so the sensor dosen't see those things.... Sometimes you have to tape it twice if it's a large area or extra dark in that spot....

Have a fine one.......:cool:

[locovalley]

I think I'm getting to the bottom of this/these problem/s. It seems to be a combination of several things. I'll keep plugging along and report what I finally come up with.



Y'all have a Happy Thanksgiving,
Joe