positioning at a certain point on a board

[TIMCOSBY]

maybe someone can tell me how to do this. i am trying to get a clock face and center hole for the clock at a certain point on an oval piece of wood. i would like to be able to draw a 5" square on the oval and mark the center of it and jog to it or a certain corner of the 5" square to start the carving. i am trying to hit the pith or center of the growth rings for the clock stem. i tried measuring and putting a grid on the oval and got close but jogging to it would be easier if i knew how and which corner to jog to. help me oh mighty and wise among you.

[oldjoe]

You could try this I have never used it but there are members that do it. If after you put your card in the CC I think you go to options and turn on the JOG to position feature this I think allows you to do what you want it to do, And if I can explain this right when you look at the machine from the key pad side the carving always start at the right.

[TIMCOSBY]

when jogging to a certain point is there a setting somewhere that will make it go down to the surface of the wood like when scanning?

[Sarge]

maybe someone can tell me how to do this. i am trying to get a clock face and center hole for the clock at a certain point on an oval piece of wood. i would like to be able to draw a 5" square on the oval and mark the center of it and jog to it or a certain corner of the 5" square to start the carving. i am trying to hit the pith or center of the growth rings for the clock stem. i tried measuring and putting a grid on the oval and got close but jogging to it would be easier if i knew how and which corner to jog to. help me oh mighty and wise among you.

If your clock face is 5 inches, work your design from the center of the board. If you cut the real board where the knot is centered, then your clock stem hole should be dead center. Don't forget to figure in the extra needed to keep it under the rollers, or carve it without keeping it under rollers.

[TIMCOSBY]

this was an oval 26" long with the pith circle in the lower 7". made a sqaure on a sheet of paper the same size as the project board in designer and center marked and positioned on oval in the right place and jogged to the corner of the sqaure and started the carve. i got close but still missed about 1/4". when i jogged i had to eyeball it cause it won't go down to the board surface like when scanning. either that or it is the scaleing bug like: http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5107
will measure the numbers tommorow to see.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Simple.... Draw you artwork and measure the distance from the front of the board to the target area. The front of the board is on the right side of designer.

Lets say in my example that the target area is 11 inches from the front of the board and 6.25 inches down from the top or keypad side of the board.

Draw a box 11 inches long and one 6.25 inches long and lay them on designer. Use them for measuring sticks.... I will put a Drill hole in the intersecting spot.

This all works because I use option 3.... Place on end of board. Delete the rectangles when done.

AL

Want to save the 3.5 inches...? Use a Sled or Carrier Board with a scrap 3.5 that is left on the carrier board and masking tape the good board to the carrier board.

I draw a 3.5 inch box and place it on the right side of Designer and do my artwork from there. I then leave the board long and I have a 3.5 inch scrap after carving. I am saving them for signs later.

[TIMCOSBY]

try that with an irregular shaped oval. the machine gives slightly diff measurements each time it measures it. what i ended up doing was a 6"x6"
board in designer then joggged to the corner to start carving. got close even drew center line on oval to get positioned on sled right. it's pushing the envelope a little but fun will try to get pics when i can. yea regular boards are a peice of cake.