I think i'm missing something simple...

[Joegris]

Having re-read the directions and considering the last post I did regarding the tear out on my first test project.
I think the problem is that it's resizing the image and something is getting lost in the translation. Let us suppose I have a 6 inch board thats 24" long x .75", according to the manual you need 3.5" extra on each length side (or is that only ONE of the sides?) Does that extra apply to the width of the board as well? IE: to have a 6" wide carving you need a 9.5" or 13" WIDE board? (assuming the extra 7" or 3.5" on the length)
I tried the sample again in oak and I got the very same distruction on the carving. Sorry, it's late and I can't take pictures tonight (i'm afraid of the dark and all)

Could someone please send me a file that is for a say, 6"Wx12"x.75" board they have had some good detail in for comparison sake?

Thanks again for all of the kind replies and help!
Joe

[mtylerfl]

Hello Joe,

The board length needs to have 3.5" extra on each end for your project to stay under the rollers - no extra width is required. NOTE: Just make sure any cutpaths you might have in a particular design are at least .5" to .75" away from the top of the board as viewed in the Designer software.

Let's say you design a project that is 6"W x10"L in the Designer software. Your ACTUAL board you would load into the machine would measure 6"W x 17"L. This assumes you want to keep it under the rollers and that you use the "Center on Length" option when you are going through the carve setup at the machine.

I'll tell you what I do to avoid any unintentional resizing at the machine during the carve setup...

I "lie" to my machine! Yup, I tell my machine NOT to stay under the rollers, but in reality, I know it WILL stay under them because my board is always 7" longer than my project design and I always select the "Center on Length" option. Doing it this way totally prevents the resize option ever coming up during the setup procedure.

[Joegris]

OK...I need to have an extra 7" total length on the board and a minimum of .5" on each side (W) for proper clearance. I understand the idea about "lying" about the stay under rollers, seems like a good one IMHO.

So does this mean that I start a new project thats 7" longer than I need in the software? or just design it as usual and use a board thats 7" longer than the project?

Joe

[Digitalwoodshop]

The 3.5 inches is in Length only. So if your project is 10 inches long and you put in a 17 inch board if all goes well your project will carve normally. Put in a 16.75 inch board and it will ask you "Scale to FIT?" Say yes and you get a smaller image.

As far as width, if you are 1/4 inch short in width it will again ask you to "Scale to Fit?"

Look at post's by me with the carrier boards. A scrap 6 inch of pine on top of the carrier board and your oak butted up against it. You could do projects and not waste much wood. Use place on End of board and just make your image start 6 inches to the left of the right side of designer. I delete my 6 inch ruler before I save the project. I could use a 3.5 inch scrap block but I went with 6.

Note the scrap block on the end too....

Just looked and everybody is helping you..... Like 10 Boy Scouts and one crosswalk.....

Good Luck,

AL

Added a project to this. I draw a rectangle block and make it 6 inches long. I stick it on the right side of designer knowing it is my scrap block on my carrier board. I make my project from that point and to the left.

I even did this with 11.25 x 11.25 clocks and put a second scrap piece AFTER my clock blank to have wood under the back roller.

[mtylerfl]

OK...I need to have an extra 7" total length on the board and a minimum of .5" on each side (W) for proper clearance. I understand the idea about "lying" about the stay under rollers, seems like a good one IMHO.

So does this mean that I start a new project thats 7" longer than I need in the software? or just design it as usual and use a board thats 7" longer than the project?

Joe

Hi Joe,

Correct - if you do it like I do, then your actual board that you will carve on is a total of 7" longer than the "fake board" in the software.

The .5" or so clearance for cutpaths is only necessary for the top edge of the board. You can have a cutpath go all the way to the bottom edge of the width of the board if you need to, no problem - the cutting bit can't hit anything at the bottom edge. (Again, it's only the top edge that needs the clearance - the cutting bit could possibly hit the brass roller if you place a cutpath too close to that edge.)

Al's method is a little different and certainly does make better use of wood. I admit I've been too lazy to do it his way, so far!

[Joegris]

All of these tips are great and should have been in the manual with the new units. I deeply appreciate the responses, everyone has helped greatly.

The destructive carving issue seems to have been resolved by keeping the machine from resizing the raster image, well mostly...Again I can't take photos with my point and shoot in this light, you won't see what I am talking about. If I get done work in the daylight i'll try tomorrow...

I am using very old pine (10 years +) with no knots and straight grain and the 1/16 carving bit. It is just the included clip art (see attached file) for testing. I used a 10"x24"x.75" board and the image was 6"x10". The flat background is very smooth and better than expected. I am getting attached "fuzz" that does not brush off with a stiff bristle brush around the curves in the carvings. I am thinking the bit possibly worn...or perhaps that this is what you get with pine (I will do another oak test tomorrow)
In your experience, how good is the carving detail in pine? nice and smooth or do you guys get this fuzz? Would calibrating the machine with the right bit help?
If you were to spread glue on a board and sprinkle felt is the texture I am getting.. I understand the resolution is 1/16", it would be nice if the curves looked as nice as the flat background.

Joe

[Joegris]

Here is the file..

[mtylerfl]

Hello Joe,

Very nice design layout.

Pine does yield some fuzzies. From what I have read on the forum, I have less "fuzzy" problems than most folks for some reason. My theory is that the pine available in my area is somehow "better" than what others have experienced.

I often use a Dremel tool with the miniature 3M Radial Bristle Discs "for jewelry" to safely remove fuzzies from my carvings, without loss of detail. Normally stacking multiple discs at a time on the mandrel (3 or more).

http://www.mcmaster.com (http://www.mcmaster.com/) sells them online for about 85 cents each (search their site for "radial bristle discs"). I use McMaster part #4494A18 (220 grit) and sometimes the #4494A17 (400 grit) discs.

Other miscellaneous surface prep tools I use are sandpaper, a variety of abrasive items such as small files, regular fingernail files, homemade ScotchBrite 'wheels' (I punch out with a hammer and pipe), and custom shaped popsicle sticks with sandpaper glued on them.

[mtylerfl]

Hey AL,

What do you use for prepping your projects before finishing? Your projects always look so professional, and I think you've carved more projects than anyone I know of! What's your secret to prepping so many items and still have time to sleep?

[Dirtydan]

Could someone please send me a file that is for a say, 6"Wx12"x.75" board they have had some good detail in for comparison sake?

Thanks again for all of the kind replies and help!
Joe
Joe,

The board you carve has to be at least 7 inches longer and 1 inch wider than the board size you used in Designer.

Example 1: for most of my Portriots I select a 11.25" x 10" x .750" board size in designer and use an 19" x 11.25" x 0.750" board for the carving.

Example 2: If you keep the actual width of the carving at least 1" smaller than the width of the board your using your ok, but the total length still needs to be 7" longer than the board lenght in Designer. This keeps you from getting a shift in the board position when either end is not being held down by a roller.

Example 3: Build a sled. The sled I use for 11.25 wide wood is 13.5" wide and 48" long. With it I can carve anything I want up to 12" wide and 41" long.

This is the best way to go...

[mtylerfl]

Joe,

The board you carve has to be at least 7 inches longer and 1 inch wider than the board size you used in Designer.


Hello Dirtydan,

The board width doesn't need to be altered at all as long as any cutpaths are at least .5" away from the top edge of the board.

[Dirtydan]

Hello Dirtydan,

The board width doesn't need to be altered at all as long as any cutpaths are at least .5" away from the top edge of the board.

You are Correct Mike; however, if you plan ahead, you can make a frame out of the leftover wood...

After I've laid the pattern out and have selected the bit I what to use for the pattern edge trim, I use the "Cut Path" option to cut the pattern out. This will leave the same .5" (or larger if you vary the extra width by more than 1 inch) on both top and bottom sides (Assuming you use "Center on Width") makes for a nice frame and you only have to trim the ends.

Right or wrong, I make all my sleds 2 inches wider than the wood I'm using. Why, you can always select "Center on Width" and everything will come out as intended. The same holds true for "Placing the design on the center of the length, assuming you've got the wood centered on the sled.

[mtylerfl]

Nice tips, Dirtydan. Thanks!

[TIMCOSBY]

like this and see if it helps.6866

[mtylerfl]

Yes! Don't know how I missed that - you do need to have something for the rollers to ride along (the feathering around the patterns needs to be removed also).

Alternative is to put the project on a carving sled with the project surrounded by wood equal to the hieght of the project board.

Thanks, Tim for pointing out what should have been obvious to us all. You can't carve out the ENTIRE area and leave nothing for the rollers! I guess I was mesmerized with the nice design and wasn't paying enough attention.