Automated and Repetitive Cutting Using the CW

[zeke]

I would like to be able to occasionaly cut multiple pieces of wood without intervention and without having to use a sled.

Here is the cutting scenario I would like to accomplish;

12' X 12" board, 11 total cross cuts at 12" each until the last piece remains at under 12" due to 1/8" cuts. Is it possible that the CW could automatically and precisely cut a quantity of 11 pieces at 12" each without intervention after the initial setup I have to assume using a project? Would designer have an issue with that?

[Dan-Woodman]

Zeke
I really don't see any problem with that, it would be slow, compared to a radial arm saw or table saw , but I don't know why you couldn't.
If you have copy offset, use that and then cut path and it will leave tabs,or if you just pick your bit and set the depth to 3/4" I would think that would work too.

later Daniel

[Jeff_Birt]

A 12 foot long, 12 inch wide board is going to be a pretty heavy load on the machine. I have doubts that it would feed through properly even with several support rollers.

[zeke]

Thanks guys.

[Greybeard]

Hi Zeke.
As Jeff pointed out, the weight of such a large board is near the size limits for the m/c in two directions, so it would be problematical.
However, I can see that it ought to be possible if you could assist the transport of the timber through the roller feed mechanism.
My idea in its simplest form would be to add a long wire/weight/pulley system to give the rollers a hand.
There is also a method that uses a wire that runs loosely once round a slowly rotating shaft(going in the same direction as the timber). This effectively magnifies the torque of the roller system. Hope that makes sense.
If you would like more details, please let me know.

Regards
John

[zeke]

I've decided to go with a board that is half the width 6" based on feedback. A few more questions. Given what I want to accomplish, seems like I'll need to select not staying under the rollers to maximize using as much of the 12' board as possible.

Question if I select to stay under the rollers, does that mean I need to add 3.5 " to either end of the board. If I specify not to stay under rollers, it would seem that I could maximize more board used if I don't have to account for 3.5" on either end.

I don't understand when you have to add the 3.5 inches and when you should or should not select stay under rollers.

[swhitney]

"Stay under rollers" = add (at least) 3.5" to each end (total of 7 inches additional to project length)

"NO" (stay under rollers) = minimum length of project only, could be longer (recommended only for boards shorter than about 3 or 4 feet in my opinion)

[Digitalwoodshop]

A long board and the inertia weight would be very rough on the X gear system and I would expect you would be spending a bunch of down time replacing the X gears. Remember the board is not just being carried into the machine but the X is a function of motion to make Centerline Text work and cutting and drilling. I scrapped my idea to run some long OAK through the machine.

The picture shows my experiment with Trex type decking, a very heavy wood plastic mix. Granted I did not have the proper rollers but even when the board was in the middle and balanced it was working very hard. Not long after I was replacing my X Gear for the first time.

As for under rollers and that 3 inches of wasted wood. I have had good luck with a carrier board and adding a 6 inch block of scrap on top and butting the board to it and masking taped it to the carrier board.

Good luck but in this case you are better off with a Shop Bot type machine with the head doing the moving.

Now if you could cut this project down to a 6 foot board it would work well in my opinion. Depending on what functions you are doing. A dust collection system would be a must for this project. A machine full of dust will jam up and stop unattended.

AL

The board is blue because it is Green Decking and after cutting the Centerline Text I sprayed the letters white. Then pealed the tape. This is from when I first got the machine last March. I have learned much since then.

Had 2 stalled cuttings today with my machine working away in the shop and me in another shop with the intercom on. The first time the Quick Change Chuck became un screwed to the point it stalled. The second a few minutes later a Carving bit was loose and moved up and down in the holder 1/4 inch causing a stall. My set screws came loose... No lock tite on either..... Just came back from service and the QC was changed but no sign of lock tite.

[zeke]

Great information. OK, changing gears again based on feedback. I'm planning to go with a sled and cut the length of the boards in half to minimize weight and I'm going to change to a lighter stock. Thanks for helping me get a longer life out of the machine. One more question, and this is from a sled perspective. Someone said they added 2" on either side (width) of the sled. Is 2" necessary or could I get by with say and extra inch and a half on either side?

[Kenm810]

Hey zeke,

When using a Sled, I have found that 1/2" on each side of the project is plenty, although I have used 3/4" for rails ---Just what ever size scrap I might have around, When I'm just carving some text or doing a carving that is at least a 1/2" away from the edges of the project board I just use a carrier board without rails like other folks do to save the 7" of wood that would be scraped to keep the project under the pressure rollers