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docmjn
10-22-2007, 03:00 PM
I have a beautiful carving with fuzzy edges and some chunks taken out of the sides of the edging.
I've heard of using a Dremmel or high speed tool. Are there any easier or less dramatic ways of getting rid of the fuzzies? I don't want to ruin the carving.
Also, does anyone just use putty to fill in the chunks or is this not a common problem?

Thanks,

docmjn

Jeff_Birt
10-22-2007, 03:15 PM
Find some 3M bristle discs (fits your Dremel tool). Foredom sells some kits of then. They are a type of plastic embedded with abrasive. They do a wonderful job of cleaning up the fuzzies without destroying the detail.

docmjn
10-22-2007, 03:22 PM
thanks, I'll try them.

docmjn

Router-Jim
10-22-2007, 03:26 PM
For straight areas like the edge of a recess I have found that a wood scraper works excellent. One swipe and the frizzies are gone. :D

Dan-Woodman
10-22-2007, 05:35 PM
The steel wire brush for the Dremel works pretty well also. Don't apply too much presure though.

JOHNB
10-22-2007, 06:26 PM
One Guy (rcwoodworks) Uses A Torch, Seems Like A Good Idea. I Use A Sanding Mop, But, I Have Yet To Have Alot Of Fuzzies To Be Of Any Concern. You May Want To Post Your Mpc For Others To Look At In Search Of Another Problem.?

liquidguitars
10-22-2007, 06:35 PM
The grain direction of the wood is a factor 2
LG

Kenm810
10-22-2007, 06:45 PM
docmjn,

Has anyone happen to ask, what kind of wood your carving.
Some softer Woods like Pine and Poplar have more fuzzies and chip outs,
often more then harder tight grained woods like Hard Maple or Cherry.
Plus some of the carving folks apply a coat of sanding sealer to harden the wood's surface,
it really dose help cut down on the fuzzies and chip out.

ronk
10-24-2007, 07:29 AM
docmjn,

I'm not new to CW but am new to posting. Haven't had anthing to add to help till now. Dremel makes the same thing I think Jeff is talking about. I picked up the wheels at Menards. I found that the medium grit with a slow to medium speed and a light touch works great. cut my fuzzy removal time by about 50% on the clock parts I'm Making. I've included some pics. Don't know if the fuzzies (or lack of) will show up. Also I have a set of Exacto knives I use as scrapers to get what the brushes can't get to.

TurkeyBranch
10-24-2007, 07:55 AM
Hey docmjn,

I use these little items, they are GREAT! You put 3 or 4 on an arbor and you have a mini mop wheel, plus they are only $.85 each and they last a long time. You can get them at McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com)

They ship the same or the next day so regular delivery is fast.

The part number you want is 4494A52 for 3/4" wheel or if you want a 2" wheel it is 4494A54, the 2" is more expensive of coarse.

The mandrel you would need for you Rotary/Dremel tool is 4494A44 for the small wheels and I put 3 wheels on at a time. And the mandrel for the 2" is 4494A46


Like I said, I use the 3/4" at 20,000 rpm. These sand without reshaping the project, and no burn either. I use the 80 grit if it's real bad and then polish it up with the 220 grit.

I hope this helps you, I got tip on these from someone else, wish I could remember who...:roll:

I do scroll work also and there I take a torch and pass it over the wood to burn the fuzzies without leaving any mark on the wood. It will knoch the fuzzies down then just a light handrub or 400 grit sandpaper to touch up


Ed

Lin
10-24-2007, 05:48 PM
Nice to meet you Ed....I to am a avid scroller. The Cw is the lastest toy added to my playground. Scrolling is what bought it.
Lin

TIMCOSBY
10-24-2007, 11:12 PM
i had scaned a 8" object on normal setting and when i cut it at 20" you could see the scan lines and was real fuzzy. took a cutting torch and lit that sucker up. was on fire once or twice but once i scrubed it with a brass wire brush it looks normal only without the lines except at the very base of the carve. fear not lite that sucker up. these were being painted anyway but once scrubbed they have a nice light brown coloring.:rolleyes:

jspringertx
10-28-2007, 03:32 PM
I use the steel brush, sandpaper discs, and some of the engraving bits to clean up the fuzzies. I found that the cordless dremel (like a pistol) is easy to control and makes the job easy.

I used the standard Dremel before, but the cord was always in the way.

I have used the 3M products, but find the steel brush is faster.

mtylerfl
10-28-2007, 04:26 PM
Hello,

I use my Dremel with 3M sanding wheels, homemade Scotch Brite circular pads, and various abrasive bits for cleaning up and touching up all my projects. It's a corded model (Dremel 400 XPR) with the Flex Shaft accessory.

Super easy to control, since you can hold the business-end like a pencil. Very light weight too, so you don't get the fatigue of holding the entire weight of the tool itself when in use.

Kenm810
10-28-2007, 06:21 PM
I've tried a bit of both,
and have even been known to hold my cordless dremel
upside down by business-end like a pencil.
Plus a little open flame now and then,
just to speed thing along.

Woodpecker
10-30-2007, 07:28 AM
Just tried a small pattern 10" x 10" placed the wood grain going sideways.
It gives amazing pattern cut with very little fuz. Still some clean up, however this was a soft wood {pine} now for the hard wood.

mtylerfl
10-30-2007, 07:55 AM
Hello Woodpecker,

You mentioned that you placed your pattern with the grain going 'sideways'. Not clear on what you mean...could you explain that in a little more detail?

For example, does the grain run along the y-axis or the x-axis? A photo would help if you can post one so we can actually see what you are referring to. Thanks!