Missing bits...

[Norm]

The software includes several bits that, according the CW, do not exist. Are these "phantom bits" going to be available in the future?

Norm

[Digitalwoodshop]

What Bits.....

[DocWheeler]

Maybe like these.. and more.

[liquidguitars]

I use the 1/2 bit cuts clean.. the 1/16 is the carving bit, and get Ron's 1/8 collet for 1/8 shank bits...

LG

[Gman_Ind]

with the 1/8" 1/4" and 1/2" adapters we can use any bit we have that matches the basic profile. The CW does an automatic tool length compensation so length is not so much an issue. I have used bits not listed and vector tool paths in making custom rosettes, the main issue I had is the WSIWYG won't work but after some test cuts and precise measuring to adjust the tool path. I was able to get a look the customer wanted.

[Norm]

The machine comes with two bits.

Cutting Bit
1/8" Straight

The complete bit set comes with the following bits.

60 Degree V Bit
90 Degree V Bit
1/4-in Diameter Ball Nose Bit
1/2-in Diameter Ball Nose Bit
3/8-in Diameter Straight Bit
3/8-in Radius Classic Ogee Bit
1/2-in Radius Classic Ogee Bit
1/8-in Radius Roman Ogee Bit
3/16-in Radius Roman Ogee Bit
1/4-in Radius Round Over Bit
1/2-in Radius Round Over Bit

The software includes the following bit selections not included above.

1/8" Ball Nose
1/16" Ball Nose
1/2" Straight

Carvewright says these Bits do not exist. The Tech with whom I spoke said, "I do not know why they are in the software." He also indicated that you can use the "other" bits to do the work. I then asked how a 1/8" or 3/8" Straight could be used to as a 1/2" Straight or how a 1/4", 1/2", or 3/8" Ball Nose could be used in place of a 1/8" or 1/16" Ball Nose? There was no clear answer.

Norm


What Bits.....

[DocWheeler]

Norm,

You can use good bits from other suppliers, Having those bits in the software just helps you visualize the output. At least that is my thoughts.

[pkunk]

Norm, the 1/16" ballnose is the carving bit. There's a lot of people that don't know that, don't feel bad.

[Norm]

The only problem with that approach is that CW says it may damage the machine and void the warrantee.

Norm


Norm,

You can use good bits from other suppliers, Having those bits in the software just helps you visualize the output. At least that is my thoughts.

[DocWheeler]

Norm, the 1/16" ballnose is the carving bit. There's a lot of people that don't know that, don't feel bad.

It would go a long way in removing the confusion if the image associated with the 1/16" ball-nosed bit looked like the result of the Carving bit rather than a straighted-sided bit!

[liquidguitars]

The only problem with that approach is that CW says it may damage the machine and void the warrantee.

the term "may" is used, not "will" void. Make sure you know how the bits cut and you should be ok.

LG

[mtylerfl]

It would go a long way in removing the confusion if the image associated with the 1/16" ball-nosed bit looked like the result of the Carving bit rather than a straighted-sided bit!

Yes, I agree.

[hunkeydorey]

As a new user and in test mode with my new system, I am confused and this forum looks like it knows the answer.
How do or can I CHANGE THE BITS in the software?
It sure seems like earlier this morning that I had a -1/16" carving bit-and now, it is gone from any of my board setop bit pulldown list?

Also, seems like my MAPLE wood should be listed as one of the options as well.

Anyone know where or how to ADD or EDIT missing bits?

Thanks..

[mtylerfl]

As a new user and in test mode with my new system, I am confused and this forum looks like it knows the answer.
How do or can I CHANGE THE BITS in the software?
It sure seems like earlier this morning that I had a -1/16" carving bit-and now, it is gone from any of my board setop bit pulldown list?

Also, seems like my MAPLE wood should be listed as one of the options as well.

Anyone know where or how to ADD or EDIT missing bits?

Thanks..

Hello hunkeydorey,

You don't have any missing bits. Just keep in mind that the Bit Selection tool is only available for vector lines and drawings you make in Designer, but not for any patterns (raster). You can't add or edit bits, but you can select bits from the list already within Designer. The only bit currently used for rasters is the 1/16" ballnose. If you changed that in your Board Settings menu, then you need to change it back to 1/16" ballnose.

As far as MAPLE wood, are you referring to the Edit/Board Settings? To change your onscreen display to other 'wood-looks', just select the Stain/Finish option in the Board Settings menu and select what finish you want displayed on your screen. (Maple is one of the selections available in the list.)

Hopefully the pics below will be helpful as well.

[hunkeydorey]

Thanks for the quick response and help.

The Texas Aggie logo for my son is therefore a raster and thus the limited bit options.

[Dan-Woodman]

There also is an issue of feed rate for each bit . In one case I was using the 3/8" straight bit verses the 1/8" straight , and the 3/8" had a lot faster feed especially on the first pass and I think the 3/8" took more passes to do the same depth slot.

If you pick a 3/8" bit in the software ,don't use a smaller bit,as it may break, but you should be ok using a larger bit.

If I use a 1/4" bit, then I use the 1/8" software.

[Norm]

Two questions:

1. The bit selection in the software the 1/8" Ball Nose, 1/16" Ball Nose, and 1/2" Straight bits are selections.. These are not part of the two supplied with the machine nor are they part of the "complete bit set." I am not trying to be argumentive, but if they are not missing, where are they?

2. I am new to wood carving and this machine is my first attempt. It arrived DOA and was sent back for repair. I have not used it. You comment about bit use bit selection being only used for raster, etc. confuses me. It was my understanding that you simply used the software to design a project and selected the bits you wished to use. From what you said this does not appear to be the case. I am lost

Norm




Hello hunkeydorey,

You don't have any missing bits. Just keep in mind that the Bit Selection tool is only available for vector lines and drawings you make in Designer, but not for any patterns (raster). The only bit currently used for rasters is the 1/16" ballnose. If you changed that in your Board Settings menu, then you need to change it back to 1/16" ballnose.

[DocWheeler]

Norm,

There might be information overload here.

First, the 1/16" ball-nose bit may be considered to be the "Carving" bit or an actual 1/16" ball-nose bit from another supplier - it does not really matter.

If I were writing the software, I would include as many variations of bits as I thought might be included now or in the future so the program that I was writing could show what they would produce. Now either that was the case or there was a change in the bits that were to be offered through Carvewright - again, it doesn't really matter. The ability to use those bits is built-in, be thankful.

Bits can be obtained from other sources, and CarveWright includes all of the bits in the package that it advertises. Just make sure that you get appropriate bits if you get them elsewhere (Ron Justice offers some alternatives as well as different sizes not in the software).

As for bit selection within a project, The tapered 1/16" ball nosed Carving bit is used on all Carving areas that are cut in raster fashon - there is no other bit selection. The places where there is a bit selection are vector routings.

I hope that that adds to understand rather than confusion.

[mtylerfl]

Two questions:

1. The bit selection in the software the 1/8" Ball Nose, 1/16" Ball Nose, and 1/2" Straight bits are selections.. These are not part of the two supplied with the machine nor are they part of the "complete bit set." I am not trying to be argumentive, but if they are not missing, where are they?

2. I am new to wood carving and this machine is my first attempt. It arrived DOA and was sent back for repair. I have not used it. You comment about bit use bit selection being only used for raster, etc. confuses me. It was my understanding that you simply used the software to design a project and selected the bits you wished to use. From what you said this does not appear to be the case. I am lost

Norm

Hello Norm,

Sorry I added to your confusion. As far as the bits actually used, you're not missing anything...it's the software that makes a person "think" they're missing something.

Doc summed it up best by giving a more thorough explanation. Sorry you had bad luck with the machine initially. Once you start using it, the lights will start turning on as to how it all works and you'll have a great time!

[Norm]

Hi Doc,

I guess I just do not know enough about wood carving or the machine to ask proper questions. Here are two projects. I assumed the bit selection on the sink cover would allow the cutout to be made and then beveled with a 90 degree bit. as selected in the software. Is this correct? Next the stove (grill) cover has an "S" in the middle. Is part raster and vector? if so which?

Norm



Norm,

There might be information overload here.

First, the 1/16" ball-nose bit may be considered to be the "Carving" bit or an actual 1/16" ball-nose bit from another supplier - it does not really matter.

If I were writing the software, I would include as many variations of bits as I thought might be included now or in the future so the program that I was writing could show what they would produce. Now either that was the case or there was a change in the bits that were to be offered through Carvewright - again, it doesn't really matter. The ability to use those bits is built-in, be thankful.

Bits can be obtained from other sources, and CarveWright includes all of the bits in the package that it advertises. Just make sure that you get appropriate bits if you get them elsewhere (Ron Justice offers some alternatives as well as different sizes not in the software).

As for bit selection within a project, The tapered 1/16" ball nosed Carving bit is used on all Carving areas that are cut in raster fashon - there is no other bit selection. The places where there is a bit selection are vector routings.

I hope that that adds to understand rather than confusion.

[DocWheeler]

Norm,

What you have in the sinktop is all vector cutting, and yes, the "S" in the grill cover is raster.

The notch in the grill cover and the arc in the sinktop may not carve as expected, I would strongly advise you to experiment on some scrap first.

Good luck,

[Dan-Woodman]

Also Norm , the edge rout feature will not follow your rounded corner(doing an rdge rout)

You will need to create a path around the object (including the rounded corner) and apply your bit to that. Edge rout is for straight edges only. Same thing with the hole , you'll need to create a path to cut the hole and another to chamfer the edge.

[DocWheeler]

This is just my two cents worth.

Since the Z truck is not vertical (on my machine anyway) in the X direction by a measurable amount, even the 3/8" bit leaves saw-tooth results in the Y direction and a slight "washboard" effect in the X direction. Therefore, I would have no use for a 1/2" straight bit, it would be even worse.

You can place a "T" square on a board laid on the sandpaper and check the rails of the Y truck (that the Z truck follows). Mine is off about 1/16" in 8" when not cutting, and probably more when it is cutting and all slack is out of it.

Since the CW will accept bits from other manufacturers and you use good judgement when buying them - why petition CW to supply them? Maybe to feel safe in your bit choices? Maybe if you are considering chucking a panel cutter into the CW, you might want their blessing first, otherwise it seems to me to be adding an unnecessary burden on them.

[Norm]

If I understand what you have said, I need to cut two holes, one for the hole and another for the sides of the circle. Then two rectangles, one for the cutout and the other for the route.
Is that correct?

NORM



Also Norm , the edge rout feature will not follow your rounded corner(doing an rdge rout)

You will need to create a path around the object (including the rounded corner) and apply your bit to that. Edge rout is for straight edges only. Same thing with the hole , you'll need to create a path to cut the hole and another to chamfer the edge.

[Norm]

If I understand you "all" interior carving is done with one bit. Selection of bits can only be done on the edge of the board or an interior cutout.

Norm


This is just my two cents worth.

Since the Z truck is not vertical (on my machine anyway) in the X direction by a measurable amount, even the 3/8" bit leaves saw-tooth results in the Y direction and a slight "washboard" effect in the X direction. Therefore, I would have no use for a 1/2" straight bit, it would be even worse.

You can place a "T" square on a board laid on the sandpaper and check the rails of the Y truck (that the Z truck follows). Mine is off about 1/16" in 8" when not cutting, and probably more when it is cutting and all slack is out of it.

Since the CW will accept bits from other manufacturers and you use good judgement when buying them - why petition CW to supply them? Maybe to feel safe in your bit choices? Maybe if you are considering chucking a panel cutter into the CW, you might want their blessing first, otherwise it seems to me to be adding an unnecessary burden on them.

[DocWheeler]

Norm,

I'm not sure if anyone can explain as well as you will learn with some practice. Some words that have been used in this thread have interpretations that can lead to mindsets of understandings that have flaws. To catagorize Carving as "internal" and routing as cutouts can lead you astray. The example that Mike Tyler gave several posts back showed two ovals that could be routed with the non-CarveWright 1/8" ball-nosed bit (1/8" deep). That is a vector "internal" design.

I chose the word "Carving" to differentiate between the 1/16" carving bit and the other routing bits. However, you could use vector routing to create designs similar to the raster carving if you chose to do that.

It will make more sense to you as you relax a little.