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Lin
09-08-2007, 10:34 PM
I believe I read before that some have built a sled with side rails taller than the print from CW says...To be able to scan deep projects...just the face part of them not going more than the 1" + a bit...can this be done and has it been done with success. Five inches would be the max for the side rails if this is fesible...right?
Now what about scanning something that is not flat on the back...How to do it...how to get it to set solid and stationary for the probe. Any one got an answer to this question?
Lin

mtylerfl
09-09-2007, 01:55 PM
I believe I read before that some have built a sled with side rails taller than the print from CW says...To be able to scan deep projects...just the face part of them not going more than the 1" + a bit...can this be done and has it been done with success. Five inches would be the max for the side rails if this is fesible...right?
Now what about scanning something that is not flat on the back...How to do it...how to get it to set solid and stationary for the probe. Any one got an answer to this question?
Lin

Hello Lin,

There is a thread that discusses scanning sleds taller than what the manual recommends. According to GaryM, it works fine. Here is a link to the thread. (GaryM's post # 19 is the one where he reports that it worked alright.)

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?t=3916&highlight=scan+sled&page=2

As far as getting an object without a flat back to 'sit tight', you could use a sheet of cheap 1" to 2" thick polystyrene white foam to cut a recessed profile for the object to sit into and temporarily hot-glue the object to the foam. I scanned a miniature coke bottle using that method several months ago.

Jeff_Birt
09-09-2007, 02:59 PM
I'm glad that I'm not the only one having problems with trying to scan tapered objects.

Shingle shims (as my Dad called them), the little tapered 8" long by 1.5" wide shims used for leveling doors and windows also work great for leveling things up. The hard part is determining what 'level' is.

I scanned an old cast iron clock a few months ago where the clock face section is level but the stand (body) is angled. When carved the body tapers down almost 1/4". I'm working on a tool for CBPE that will allow you to 'tilt' a pattern (or part of a pattern) to fix tapered scans.

Lin
09-09-2007, 03:35 PM
I have had succes with some of the items I picked up at the yards sales that were not flat on the back. I didn't care if the backside of the piece was ruined forever so the belt sander with 60 grit paper and I became friends. Doesn't work on all meduim but had worked on plastic, ceramics, resin, and plaster...Glass no...I tried it..lol
Thanks for the info...I'll go check the post on the deeper sled.
Michael, You got a pic of the foam you are refering to and where I could find it to purchase?
Lin

Kenm810
09-09-2007, 04:06 PM
Lin,

Hope this dosn't confuse you,
This has worked for me a few times. I just squish the piece level into the mix
and wait till it dries the Plaster of Paris take about 45 minutes the clay takes over night.
the plastic wrap keeps anything from sticking to the back of the piece to be scanned.

End View

Lin
09-09-2007, 05:49 PM
The clay you are refering to...purchae Where? Michaels maybe...Hooby Lobby..one of those type craft stores. And Its called hardening clay?
Lin

Kenm810
09-09-2007, 06:07 PM
Most people call it self hardening or air hardening clay
and you can get it at Michaels, Hooby Lobby or most craft and art supply stores.
It comes in several colors and under many names, but all work well.



Sculpt-It is ideal for freehand modeling and creating realistic sculptures. No kiln or heat baking is required. It is non-toxic, ideal for children who are old enough to work with modeling or polymer clays.



It dries to an almost ceramic hard surface with minimal shrinkage, and can be moistened while pliable for piece-to-piece adhesion, smoothing, and blending to avoid cracking. Paint the finished piece when it is dry, or leave it unpainted for that natural look.