There's a burning sensation in my shaft....

[phoenix02]

I thought that title would get some attention! :)

I picked up my compucarve yesterday... and took it back yesterday. It's really not too encouraging when you're 30 minutes into your first carve on the machine and the flex shaft starts getting rather hot- so much so that the rubber burned off the shaft about 1 inch on either side of where the wir support ends and touches it. I ordered another- should be in wednesday.

I have since read up on the new lube procedures for the shaft- would it be advantagous to relube upon arival with the next unit, or was the last one I got a fluke, somebody in China having too much tea or something and not lubing it properly?

I had to get a sears card- I hate credit, but I want to use the unit as the basis for a custom woodshop- just to get the unit. I'm really hoping my decision doesn't bite me back. We'll see- from what I understand, perseverence is the name of the game with this machine.

Also, I was using stock models- a rosette, corners, etc- on a piece of pine (white wood) and what did come out looked rather bad. VERY fuzzy and alot of tear out. Is this due to the use of a softer wood? I have some black walnut, oak and redwood I can try. I just wanted to test the waters on the cheap stuff first. :)

Finally, does anyone have trouble with the bit holder? The one on my last machine didn't want to release the bit for anything- I ended up leaving the carving bit in the machine when I returned it instead of packed back up properly.

Thanks for any replies or ideas,
Michael

[Kenm810]

Hi Michael, Welcome to the Forum

There have been a few machines come through without lube or improperly lubed Flex-shafts causing over heating and damage to the Flex-Shaft and machine. It is recommended to lube when you first get the machine and again approximately after every twenty hours of carving, using Gunk industrial Chain lube /with Moly. The shaft should never be more then just worm to the touch, to be more accurate some of the carvers have bought and are using hand held thermal detectors to monitor the Flex-Shafts temperature, but that up to you.

The Quick change chuck should also be lubed to help with sticking and fouling, I use T-9 on a couple of Q-Tips a the beginning and end of every carving day some others use 3in1 oil or lubes that dry in contact, all are meant to prevent chuck sticking and rust, plus dust and chip build up inside the chuck.

Pine and other soft woods with wide loose grain patterns will often carve poorly. They are are often used for practice carves, because of the cost and sanding clean up required. Your much better off and get superior carvings with tight grained hard woods, Cherry, Hard Maple, White Oak and the like. You can carve products like MDF, "Medium Density Fiber Board" but be careful of the dust, I can be toxic.

Always feel free to ask question on the forum, there are lots of folks out there with answers.
Plus the Forum Search option in this Forum is always the first and most valuable place I look when I have a problem.


ps When you get a chance read up on Dust and Chip collection or Vacuum Systems ( Great Help) for your Machine, also Static build up and Grounding

[rjustice]

The thermometers the Ken referenced are Infrared thermometers. Some models have a laser pointer that help you aim the device acurately to measure temperature. If you open the attached pictures you can see the red dot on the flex cable.

As I felt this was an area of big concern for us carvers, I decided to offer them with the other accessories that I make for the carving machine. If you are interested they are $39 plus $11 priority shipping w/insurance... also anything else that I offer can be added to your order at no extra shipping charge. Just drop me an email at the below address and i can send you a PayPal invoice. Your order can usually ship the same day.

CW_Parts@yahoo.com

Thanks for your interest!

Ron

[rpringle]

Ken,
Very good discripton for the maintance kit.
The only thing left out was that several drive tubes have been melted because the wire wrap was left on.
The wire rap must be removed and let the wire and flex tube be free to move independently.
The wire is a heat sink for the cutting head and after using the proper Gunk lubracation on the drive shaft it will take care of itself.
The best way to lube the drive shaft is to remove it and let it soak, with molly Gunk, in a 1/4 or 3/8 flex tube overnight ( it may help to the flex the tube during the soak to open the spaces in the spring).

On a long carve my drive shaft still feels farily warm so I place a damp rag over it and hold it with spring closepins to better disapate the heat.

Russ