V60 & V90 Bits

[jspringertx]

I just received my new V60 & V90 bits from CarveWright and I have activated Centerline Fonts.

I have a couple of bit adapters from broken bits and I plan on using them for the new bits. Since the bit shanks are considerably shorter than the bit I took out, what is the length of the bit supposed to be from the bottom of the adapter to the tip of the bit.

I have searched the manual and posts and can't find anything to tell me how to mount the bits.

Any help will be appreciated.

[Kenm810]

This might be what you need
Page 26 of the owners manual

[pkunk]

Just sorta center the chank in the adapter. Makes no difference. :D

[Deolman]

OK, I have my Compucarve in a box still, and with so many things to do all I can do is look at the software. (It has been 30 days now. aaaargh!!!) I have been playing with the software and this is a question that has been nagging at my head for a while. I think I can read between some of the lines here and make a few swags.

Does it really matter the overall length of the bit?

Once it is chucked, does the machine have the ability to find the end (or bottom of the bit as it sits in the chuck)?

Obviously the bit must be assembled into the adapter in fairly close accordance to the previously posted manual pictures.

Now, if the above is close to the truth, then, the actual bit could almost come from almost anyplace if it is a plunge bit (cutting blades on the tip) and you are not trying to cut where there are no cutting blades? Does this also mean there is nothing really magical about any of the bits that might be used?

Someone please help me out and explain the error of my thinking.

Hopefully in the really near future I will be able to try all of this for myself in a live operation. LOL

Thanks.

[pkunk]

Right on all counts.:D

[jspringertx]

This might be what you need
Page 26 of the owners manual

I saw that diagram, but since it didn't include the actual bit in the photograph I was very confused. I see the adapter, but no bit.

After I looked at the diagram it appears that the router bit is on top of the adapter. They are displaying a router bit and not one of the straight carving bits.

I will try it again tomorrow.

[jspringertx]

Just sorta center the chank in the adapter. Makes no difference. :D

Make sense to me. I guess that is why it taps that little piece on the right side of the carver.

[benluz]

OK, I have my Compucarve in a box still, and with so many things to do all I can do is look at the software. (It has been 30 days now. aaaargh!!!) I have been playing with the software and this is a question that has been nagging at my head for a while. I think I can read between some of the lines here and make a few swags.

Does it really matter the overall length of the bit?

Once it is chucked, does the machine have the ability to find the end (or bottom of the bit as it sits in the chuck)?

Obviously the bit must be assembled into the adapter in fairly close accordance to the previously posted manual pictures.

Now, if the above is close to the truth, then, the actual bit could almost come from almost anyplace if it is a plunge bit (cutting blades on the tip) and you are not trying to cut where there are no cutting blades? Does this also mean there is nothing really magical about any of the bits that might be used?

Someone please help me out and explain the error of my thinking.

Hopefully in the really near future I will be able to try all of this for myself in a live operation. LOL

Thanks.

yes ,your logic is correct, now carve and have fun
Ben

[liquidguitars]

little OT but the 1/4 bit needs to be set at the right depth off the collet as you can have probs with the shank rubbing in some cuts, this can thrash the truck so keep the the specs on that one.

LG

[Kenm810]

OK if diagrams don't cut it ---how about a few pictures http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

The pieces of plastic tubing on the bits protects my fingers and thumbs while handling them
and protects the bits just in case I bump or drop them.
They don't fair well bouncing on concrete of any hard surface. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif

[jspringertx]

Great photos!!!

Your photos are much better than the diagrams in the manual. It is exactly what I am looking for and will print the photos for my manual book.

Thank you very much for sharing the photos with me and the forum!

[Deolman]

Thanks for all of the answers. This helps me and has put my thinking in the proper perspective. The pictures helped a lot. I also like the idea of the tubing protecting both the bits and the fingers. :D

[jspringertx]

OK if diagrams don't cut it ---how about a few pictures http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif

The pieces of plastic tubing on the bits protects my fingers and thumbs while handling them
and protects the bits just in case I bump or drop them.
They don't fair well bouncing on concrete of any hard surface. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif

Thanks to you I have inserted the bits properly (from the photo) and have ordered 6 more bit holders from CW. The photos were much better than the drawing in the manual.

A photo is worth 1,000 words!

[cajunpen]

Ken the plastic tubing is a good idea - thanks for the tip. I've had a couple of nasty little knicks changing bits, and as you apparently know - they hurt:D
Bit protection is a good side benefit of the tubing.

[Kenm810]

Hey Bill,

Those “nasty little knicks“ have away to haunt you and act as a reminder
every time you get your fingers near the lacquer thinner. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_eek.gif

[911guy]

Ken the plastic tubing is a good idea - thanks for the tip. I've had a couple of nasty little knicks changing bits, and as you apparently know - they hurt:D
Bit protection is a good side benefit of the tubing.

I've cut my finger the first day I had my new toy. One thing that I do is tear off a piece of cloth rag (about 4-6 inches squared) and use that to install my bits. Learned my lesson well.