My CW arrived

[Lin]

We picked it up Thursday evening. I have read the manual a couple times..
Putting together a stand to hopefully try her out today. I do however have a couple questions..
I will start out using the two bits that came with the machine but I also ordered replacement bits for those two. I have used the search feature on this forum to try to find out which type of loctite to use on the screws for the replacement bits and am now confused...The manual says thread cement....of course Loctite comes to mind. In the search I have found that all do not agree on which Loctite to use...Blue...Red or I even found one post that suggested green...Which should be used? I have blue on hand.
Other question before I insert the bit adapter into the QC. Should I oil the QC first? Making sure it will move up and down freely so I don't get my bit adapter stuck in it after the first carving? What oil is best to use on the QC? I have 3 in 1 oil, WD 40, (I think I read this is NOT what should be used?) and I also have a product called Drop'L Do from a company called Lube Con the is a thin-film/dry-film penetrating lubricate. It is not suppose to attract dust. All help will be appreciated...I'm trying to avaid some of the issues that others have had. This forum is why I went ahead and purchased the CW...Without you guys and gals I doubt if I would've purchased it. I know from all the reading I have done...there is help if I need it and folks that will work me thru understanding the software and how this machine works.
A few more questions before I put a board thru the machine...

What is the difference between using 100 and 200 or 999 in the height listing in Designer?
When you add the 7" in length and do you add to the width? to the board to stay under the rollers....Are you adding to the actual board dimensions you gave in Designer or the actuall dimensions fo the project itsefl...For instance. If I design a carving and put 8" x 8" in the designer board to start with but I don't use all the board when actually desiging the carving.in the software...like its a rectangle carving instead of the square board I started with...which dimensions to I add to?
We plan to do one maybe two test cuts with the machine then will build the downdraft system under the stand and hook up a dust collector to it. Just want to make sure the machine is working at this point.
Lin

[DocWheeler]

Lin,
There are folks here that can explain this better, I will state my understanding of this one part only.
Keep under rollers is just for length, not width.
The distance between the carving bit to the center of each roller, that holds the board down, is about 3.5". When the board end is not held down (under the roller), it will usually raise into the bit and show up in the carving, so it is best to have extra length on the board to assure that it remains under the rollers (OR use a sled to carve on).
If you create a carving that does not have sufficient uncarved material on each end, you may have a problem with the board lifting. If you tell the machine to Keep it under the rollers, the machine "sees" the carvable board to be about 7.05" shorter than the length that it measures the actual board length to be. With an 18" board, the CW will "see" only a 10.95" of carving area. If your carving area is bigger than that, you will NOT get what you expected.
Hope this helps.

Added later: My heading seems to have the same problem as Kenm810 had.

[DocWheeler]

Lin,
Everyone seems to be staying away so I'll put in my 2 cents worth on this subject. Check here first -http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2564&highlight=height
The summary of this to me is that the default carving depth is 1/4" (0.25) and to have the top of a carved surface come all the way back to the original board surface is to set the height to 100.
If you increase the carve depth to .50", you would have to increase the height of the carved surface to 200 to come to the original surface now.
When someone enters 999 (or anything over 399), the height of the carving will be at the original surface since the CW can only carve 1" deep (four default carving depths, or 4 X 100 if you think of it in those terms).

[Lin]

Doc, Thank-you for responding. I know I'm full of questions..but I want to try to keep from making mistakes.
So if I'm understanding this correctly...If I were to set the depth of the cut to .5" and leave the height at 100...the top part of the carving would be .25" below the surface of the board...Is that right?
I'm heading off now to re-read the post in the link you gave me and copy and paste it in an info file I made for the CW.
Do you know which loctite I should be using on the threads for the bit adapters?
Lin

[Kenm810]

Lin,

Just came in from some yard work and saw you question, I found this Quote -- about RED Loc-Tite
The fact that the thread locker was not securing the screws and and only one set screw was snugged up to the round side of the shank could spell trouble. It was obvious that the red thread locker was applied after the chuck was oiled thus preventing the thread locker from curing. At first it also appeared that the set screws were too short as the head of the set screw bottoms out on the chuck before the end reaches the flat, however, I checked and they are the same length as originals. To correct this I simply used a countersink and opened the holes in chuck a little and now the set screw will tighten onto the flat. I soaked the chucks and screws in mineral spirits to remove the old thread locker and oil then rinsed them in acetone before resetting the screws with red thread locker. The parts must be clean and dry before applying the thread locker or it will not cure. I slid the bit into the chuck, snugged the one setscrew, and then pushed the bit up until the set screw was against the bottom edge of the flat. This way the bit is held so that it cannot move up into the chuck and change the depth of cut. I will wait until the thread locker cures before oiling them.

ps. Lin' please - please Check the lube on the flex-shaft also, a few machines have been delivered with out proper lube. The best right now is Gunk ind.chain lube w/Moly, use search and pick the lube method that suits you best.

[DocWheeler]

Lin,
Yes, you understood what I was trying to convey.
It was good to see your other post showing your first carving, good work.

I didn't notice that I moved the text in Designer until after my first carve and saw that it was off-center:( .

I just saw the post pointing to the "mops" yesterday, how do you like them and do they work well in tight corners?

[Lin]

The mop sander seemed to do ok with this piece...Not sure how well they will get into a deeper carving. For hardwoods...you may need a 120 grit to get the job done. I do alot of sanding with segmentation projects and already had the mop sander on hand....If I find that I have a need for something more..I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I have in the past spent $$ and then never used what I bought...ya know...thinking I just had to have it...lol
I will have to purchase some red loctite...blue is all I have on hand.
My QC is kinda sticky from outta the box. Not sure what type of oil to use / not use on it to help correct the problem...took me a bit of time to get the bit in place and feel that I had it in right.
LIn

[DocWheeler]

Lin,
I assume you saw this thread http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2720&highlight=snap

After reading that thread, I started using a very small amount of 3 in 1 oil at each of the four flats at the top of the chuck and lifted the outer-ring and turned it at multiple locations trying to get the gunk out of the chuck and moving the oil into in. The 3/8" straight bit is still a bear to get in and out.

[Kenm810]

Lin, found a couple more for ya http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif
I find mine stays working better by applying a bit of 3-1 Oil to a rag and wiping the inside of the chuck and outside of the bit holder (not much you don't want oil to drip on your wood).

Don't leave the bit in the machine when done. Lightly lube the bit assembly chuck and lightly lube bits before storage to prevent surface rust. My bit is still in the unit from the first and only test cut. Things to do list.... First thing in the morning remove the bit and lubricate.

Lube the chuck and the bit holders with Boeshield T-9. It is a rust protectant that leaves a good protectant coat, and won't stain the wood the way or attract sawdust the way wd-40 will. Additionally, wd-40 is a solvent, and will clean out the lubricant in the quick-release, possibly making your problems worse in the long run.

Myself, I like to lube the inside of the chuck with a little T-9 on one end of a Q-Tip and wipe any excess out with the other http://www.carvewright.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4241&d=1182258919

[Lin]

I have 3 in 1 oil on hand and also a product called Drop'L Do from a company called Lube Con the is a thin-film/dry-film penetrating lubricate. It is not suppose to attract dust. It has a needle like opening for getting into small places...Do you think this stuff would work well on th QC and the bit adapters? I did remove the bit after my test carving.
You guys and gals have taught me some things already....lol
I will go in search of the Gunk Moly Lube...Does is come in a tube...spray or what? If more than one type of container...which is better to get...Tube...spray? Making a list of what I need to purchase now...I have to build the downdraft table for hooking up my dust collector. Any others items I need to pick up besides the RED loctite and Gunk? Should I be purchasing white lithium grease now also? Worse part is the fact that I have several scrolling orders to complete...and I want to play with the new "Toy" instead..
Lin

[Kenm810]

Lin, Check the site listed in my last post, for an idea of what to look for.

[Lin]

Thanks Ken...But do I need all those items? What the Super oil used for?
I know now what container to look for in the Gunk...and the white grease...
And the little bottle of T9...I was thinking it came in a spray can..
Lin

[Kenm810]

Lin,

Quote --"But do I need all those items?" na not really, http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif but somewhere down the line you might.This way you'll have a head start knowing what to look for. The T-9 dose come in a large spray can. But I don't recommend trying to spray any up inside chuck, it can make a real mess on it's way back out. Plus a drop or two of T-9 from that little bottle on a Q-tip goes a long way. The Super oil is just the Gunk formula of 3 in 1 oil. The Dielectric Silicone Compound is for the contacts if you ever have to service your scanning probe.

[rpringle]

Lin,

Something which I've found is when the chuck seems impossibly stuck, It has happened several times with me, It may help to use a thin wrench to hold the square nut on the top and then twist the lower top hat back and forth.

The dry lube would be a good idea if you could remove all of the prior lubricant, nearly impossible, the mix of dry lube and oil would probably be like spraying graphite into a lock which had already been oiled. The result is a paste simular to mud.

Using the Gunk moly lube is a great idea, I had to order mine through the internet after looking at several local stores here, including "Home Depot".
They had several types of spray but not molly lube.

I found this micro stand at Wal-Mart for $89.99.
The vacume duct came from spare parts.

I'm sorry I have tried everything I can think of to add picture attachments to this note and each time the upload fails.
I will try again in a day or so.

Russ

[Lin]

Russ, Wish you could post a pic of how you did your duct system...I've looked at all so far on the forum and have a sorta idea in mind about how to go about it. More info and pics I see...Easier for my brain to figure everything out. The only way I have been able to post a pic in the forum lately has been thru a URL. Won't attach pics from my system.
Thanks for the heads up aobut the wrench idea...I very well made need it.
Lin

[Gman_Ind]

LIN,
glad to hear you're in possession of the machine, many of your previous questions I hope are explained now you have 'hands on' experience.

[Lin]

Mike and all,
Yes many questions are now answered now that I have the machine and see how it operates...Still a large learning curve for me...but I'll get there evenually. Got a slot cut into my piece of ply today and picked up the weather stripping and the nuts and bolts to attach it to my stand....I measured the slot on the CW...I cut the slot exactly the same...2" x 17".
Hope that is right?...or should I have gone larger?
Having issues trying to find some way to attach my DC hose to the downdraft box once I build it...Will one of those tablesaw dust collctor fittings work? They say they can be either two-sided taped on or attached with wood screws. What the best way to seal in side the wooden box I will build under the slot for dust collection? Or do I even need to seal it?
I want to get this built so I can run more test projects...I ladi off work this week but have to go back to work next week. That will keep me from being able to play except on the week-ends...(frown)
Lin

[benluz]

Mike and all,
Yes many questions are now answered now that I have the machine and see how it operates...Still a large learning curve for me...but I'll get there evenually. Got a slot cut into my piece of ply today and picked up the weather stripping and the nuts and bolts to attach it to my stand....I measured the slot on the CW...I cut the slot exactly the same...2" x 17".
Hope that is right?...or should I have gone larger?
Having issues trying to find some way to attach my DC hose to the downdraft box once I build it...Will one of those tablesaw dust collctor fittings work? They say they can be either two-sided taped on or attached with wood screws. What the best way to seal in side the wooden box I will build under the slot for dust collection? Or do I even need to seal it?
I want to get this built so I can run more test projects...I ladi off work this week but have to go back to work next week. That will keep me from being able to play except on the week-ends...(frown)
Lin



Have fun with your new toy ! I just set up my new shopsabre a full size CNC....talk about a learning curve.The CW is a good Machine ....a few problems, but will give you many hours of fun and as time goes by better sofware,Hardware improvements, add ons.It will last a lifetime because any part can be replaced fairly easy.Have fun !
Ben

[Gman_Ind]

Ben is going into the CNC pretty deep, congrats Ben!
Lin is a talented scroller turning into a carver, the learning curve on the CW goes fast, your inquisitive mind should figure this thing out fast.

Dust collection, a good idea, I ran a simple rig and it works well for me, I only have a shop vac hole cut in the far side of a sheet of plywood, most on my projects are 12" or less and this port is able to catch most of the dust.