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Ropdoc
06-03-2007, 02:40 PM
Hey guys,

I am working on a box. For example the lid. I have an image I want caved out of the top and the hollow out the bottom and cut an edge to slide into the bottom half of the box. I was able to design it but how do I get the machine to make both cuts out of one piece of wood?

Thanx,
Dave

Dan-Woodman
06-03-2007, 03:39 PM
I think you may have to use a sled for this one
What it does is it cuts the back first and since you want a rabbit around the edge to fit in the bottom, you won't have any wood on the edge to ride on the board censor.
Unless you make your board bigger to start with and cut to size after it's done carving.

Gman_Ind
06-04-2007, 01:38 PM
Personally I would not use a sled, I would load in a wider board. A sled messes up the cutout feature. a wider board gives a means to hold and position the piece between the rollers and the tabs created on the cutout process will hold the piece until it is done.
A good example is Jeff Birts apple box. If only this had the rabbet already in place. ;)

Jeff_Birt
06-04-2007, 01:54 PM
Here is a link to the apple box tutorial http://allcw.com/Projects.html I used a pivot pin rather than a lip, but it will give you a good idea about how to line up the parts of a two sided project. To add a lip to the top piece, you would have to not carve the top quite so deep and copy the outline for the inside-bottom over to the inside-top and center it to the top. Carve outside this line for the outside lip edge. Since you can't choose which side of the line to cut on you have to carve it (raster mode) instead of vector cutting. But the slight bevel should match up.

mtylerfl
06-04-2007, 01:57 PM
Hey guys,

I am working on a box. For example the lid. I have an image I want caved out of the top and the hollow out the bottom and cut an edge to slide into the bottom half of the box. I was able to design it but how do I get the machine to make both cuts out of one piece of wood?

Thanx,
Dave

Hello Dave,

Would it work to put the front of your design on the BACK, and the rabbet part of the design on the FRONT?

That way the CW would carve your design first (since it is on the back of the board), then flip the board and carve the rabbet (as it would be carved last). Depending on your design, there could be enough flat surface left for the benefit of riding on the board sensor properly. (I think!)

Gman_Ind
06-04-2007, 02:57 PM
Here is a link to the apple box tutorial http://allcw.com/Projects.html I used a pivot pin rather than a lip, but it will give you a good idea about how to line up the parts of a two sided project. To add a lip to the top piece, you would have to not carve the top quite so deep and copy the outline for the inside-bottom over to the inside-top and center it to the top. Carve outside this line for the outside lip edge. Since you can't choose which side of the line to cut on you have to carve it (raster mode) instead of vector cutting. But the slight bevel should match up.
I started messing with it, My Sis wants some for the store and I want to make one with less secondary work, so the lip would be nice. Back to the designer.

Dirtydan
06-04-2007, 08:06 PM
Well I got my probe today...:p

I made my scanning table with a change or two added. See attached.
After adding centering lines, I also put a 12" x 24" Lexan on the table to maintain the those lines.

For Mounting, I'm using a produce called Quake Hold (Museum Putty) to hold the items being scanned down. Seems to work well and it is easy remove from the tabe and the item scanned.

Dirtydan
06-04-2007, 08:15 PM
Hello Dave,

Would it work to put the front of your design on the BACK, and the rabbet part of the design on the FRONT?

That way the CW would carve your design first (since it is on the back of the board), then flip the board and carve the rabbet (as it would be carved last). Depending on your design, there could be enough flat surface left for the benefit of riding on the board sensor properly. (I think!)

That's the best way... Quick and Simple.

Or as some one else said, you can just use a board that is 1" longer and wider than what the project calls for... The cut-out takes a little longer and some extra clean-up, but it also works fine. I've done it both ways.