Flexshaft lube

[ljdm]

What is the latest recommended procedure for lubing the flexshaft? Not sure if the lubing is to be done on a new machine, or if being a CC opposed to a CW makes a difference. I know the way to lube it - moly chain lube, etc, just not sure if a new Sears model needs it right away.

[Kenm810]

Please check and lube it with moly lube any way, we just had a post the other day of a new machine burning up the flex-shaft. I wouldn't want to take the chance.

Quote-
I picked up a new machine on Saturday,started carving on Sunday. After two successful carves, my third carve which was scheduled to be only 45 minutes long, ended in disaster. My flex shaft caught on fire, melted everything rubber and spit out the core on my carpet (indoor - outdoor) The core was so hot that when it touched the carpet, it melted the carpet and engrained itself into it. Has anyone else see this happen?

[pkunk]

When I got my new machine I checked the flexshaft and it seemed to be lubed. I went ahead with a 20 min. test carve and monitored everything including touching the shaft periodically and by the end of the carve it was too hot to touch. A 24 hour soak in Moly lube and it's been fine ever since.
Why take a chance?

[RC Woodworks]

Paul is right, Moly Lube is good stuff and really works!

Rick

[swhitney]

I use a 1/2" pvc pipe sealed on one end, and long enough for the flexshaft. Fill it with moly lube with the shaft in place, and let her soak. When the flex-shaft is being used, I cork the tube, and save the leftover lube for the next soaking. The tube is attached vertically to my rolling compucarve stand and is always available for Gertrude's or Sophie's flexshaft soaking.....

[rjustice]

After following the forum for a few weeks before buying mine, I decided when it came in I would re lube it with the moly no matter what it looked like. I did so. I have monitored the temps of the cable shield, and it started out running about 10 deg warmer at first than it does now... I have almost 70 hours now, and still have not re-lubed... It is still running the same temps. I will definately vouch for the Gunk Industrial Chain Lube w/ Moly.... great stuff !!

I did put my cable in a vacume sealer over night, to allow the molly to be pulled into the core of the cable. I then dried it thoroughly the next day before putting in back in the sheath...

Happy Carving,

Ron

[BearlyRich]

I use a 1/2" pvc pipe sealed on one end, and long enough for the flexshaft. Fill it with moly lube with the shaft in place, and let her soak. When the flex-shaft is being used, I cork the tube, and save the leftover lube for the next soaking. The tube is attached vertically to my rolling compucarve stand and is always available for Gertrude's or Sophie's flexshaft soaking.....

Did you find a source of liquid Moly or did you spray many cans into the tube? I have seen powder and spray types, but never straight liquid?

And yes, I also like the Moly lube. The greasy stuff that was on my cable when I got it lasted about 10 hours. It's been Moly since and running cooler...

[Kenm810]

I have was able to find and buy some the liquid Moly Lube, but found oz. for oz. the Gunk Industrial Chain Lube w/ Moly more economical to buy, plus easier to find.
I use a piece of ¼ or 5/16 inch ID. Polyvinyl clear aquarium tubing filled with the spray moly lube and the ends plugged with a couple ¼ x 1 inch pieces of dowel rod.
Then hang on a nail with a tie wrap over night, next day I wipe the flex-shaft off and let it dry on some toweling before reinstalling it in the machine. (Be careful moly lube can be messy) If you do reuse any of the moly lube remember, to mix of stir it up a little the contents do separate after a few days.

[swhitney]

thanks for the tip on mixing the lube if reusing. as I use a 1/2" pvc pipe, can't see inside. I used spray lube and created a "backdrop type funnel" to spray against, with the excess going into the pvc pipe. I lightly spray the outside as the flex cable slides into the pvc pipe overnight. Next day, I lightly "squeegee" and back on the machine. I do this when the flexcable gets a little more than warm during use.

[BearlyRich]

I like the idea of using a tube to lubricate the shaft. Ken, thanks for the idea of the narrow tubing. I never thought of that and it would cut down considerably the amount of lubricant needed to fill.

[pamjmayo]

rjustice: Could you explain how to use the vacuum bags with the flex shaft? It would seem that when you put the hose on the bag, the molly would come out? I really like this way of doing it (the idea) as it seems so much more manageable. Thanks, Pam

[rjustice]

rjustice: Could you explain how to use the vacuum bags with the flex shaft? It would seem that when you put the hose on the bag, the molly would come out? I really like this way of doing it (the idea) as it seems so much more manageable. Thanks, Pam

Pam,
I simply coiled up the flex shaft, and placed it inside one of the plastic bags used for vacume sealing food. I drenched it down well with the Gunk Industrial Chain Lube with Moly, and then took my wifes food vacume sealer, and pulled a vacume on the bag. It sucks all the air out (including the air in the center core of the flex shaft)... and pulls the lube into the core. (kinda like marinading a chicken breast)... I let it set over night and the next day pulled it out and dried it off with a lint free towel, and slid it back into the sheath. I monitored the temps of the cable with an infrared thermometer, and when i first put it together, it was running about 10-15 degrees warmer than it still is today... i think it took a few hours to stabalize, but it started in the low to mid 100's and has been running in the upper 80s-low 90's ever since, and i have not relubed yet with about 70 hours on the machine now.

Hope this helps..

Ron

[DDV]

QUOTE: then took my wifes food vacume sealer.

Does she know?? Now what are you going to do when she uses your CW as a blender??

[swhitney]

the CW as a blender...hmmmm. Fresh toddies in the workshop....

[Kenm810]

Ron that's a great idea, I seem to recall your earlier post about using a vacuum food sealed. Knowing barb would give me a good slap up side the head for even thinking of using our new food sealer for a lube job on my machine parts. Then I remembered our old one in the basement still works, and has a 1/4" suction tube on it. With it and a $1.59 aquarium air valve, I can just plug it into the 1/4" tubing that I already use to Moly lube my flex-shaft, vacuum out the air, shut off the valve, and leaving the valve attached to the tubing with the shaft and Moly in it, and hang it on the wall. If anyone is so inclined to try it, my neighbor next store bought a couple of food vacuum sealers for his hobbies at yard sales for about $5.00 each.
Thanks Ron

[rjustice]

Ron that's a great idea, I seem to recall your earlier post about using a vacuum food sealed. Knowing barb would give me a good slap up side the head for even thinking of using our new food sealer for a lube job on my machine parts. Then I remembered our old one in the basement still works, and has a 1/4" suction tube on it. With it and a $1.59 aquarium air valve, I can just plug it into the 1/4" tubing that I already use to Moly lube my flex-shaft, vacuum out the air, shut off the valve, and leaving the valve attached to the tubing with the shaft and Moly in it, and hang it on the wall. If anyone is so inclined to try it, my neighbor next store bought a couple of food vacuum sealers for his hobbies at yard sales for about $5.00 each.
Thanks Ron

Oh my gosh... I had to leave for a while, and look at what happened here while i was gone... LOL.. Yep, Lori told me to expect to buy her a new one if i got one drop of that quote "GUNK STUFF" on it :D... So i got on ebay to see what it was going to run me if i did screw up... somewhere between 10-30 bucks... I went ahead and risked it!...

Heed Ken's warning about the stuff staining though. It is really hard to clean up, if not impossible...

Lets see... hmm.. a new bit adapter that powers a blender....Yep, I think that can be done!!!..

Ron

ps..Ken, have you tried the bit adapters yet?... how's it working for you if so?

[Gman_Ind]

Good tips, I vacuume sealed a bad and did manage to lube the food sealing bag. I have a cheap vacuum pump (brake bleeder) with liquid sump cup. I have some old aquarium parts some where. I like the tube idea for a good soak.

Since my machine has been back from LHR I made 7 signs and the flex shaft is barely warm. I have been doing mostly vector routing this weekend.
The shaft does a strange dance and makes strange noises now. It is cool and works so I am living with it.

[pamjmayo]

OK guys, since I'm the boss of the kitchen, I think I'll try the food bag. I was wondering if the new space bags would work equally well. Has any one thought of trying this? I sure appreciate all of the input. If I do use the food sealer, did I read that it stains? I need a little heads up on this one. Thanks again, all of you. I'm so tired of not knowing how to do all the things you guys do. Pam

[oldjoe]

Yes it will stain your machine not sure how to clean it haven't bothered trying. And you probably know more than alot of guys in this forum. After all you were smart enough to purchase one of these wonderful machines.:D

[Kenm810]

Hi Pam,

Either Bags or Tubing both work fine,
the Vacuum process some of us feel is even better.
And OH YES it can and will stain anything and everything ( please take my word for it ) if your not careful.
The moly lube left in the bag or tubing can be reused it's still good,
but remember to mix or shake it up, the moly separates when left to long.http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[Jeff_Birt]

I just wanted to add (reiterate) a warning here: Make sure you get all the excess lube off your flex shaft before reinstalling it back into your machine. Failure to do so will allow the excess oil to flush the grease out of the top spindle bearing causing it to fail.

I found out the hard way, even though CW has stated the same warning above (i.e. I knew better). I had even let my cable hang overnight after lubing and (I think due to cooler weather) it still let enough lubricant free that it toasted the upper spindle bearing. The bearing cage was actually GONE. I think in the future it might be a good idea to heat it a bit with a heat gun to make sure the excess is able to flow free of the cable.

The top bearing is a NSK 6000 DU. Luckily, I had a 6000 ZZ (metal shields, the original has rubber shields which is better) on hand so I was able to swap it out and keep going. Changing the bearings is not an easy task, definitely not something for one to try unless you have lot of experience with that type of work.

First the chuck has to be removed. The spindle shaft is pressed into the bearings so this requires rigging something up to press the shaft out and back in. I think 'next' time I'll make up a special tool with a 4" or 6" C-clamp and the needed fittings.

[Bubbabear]

OK Jeff now i realize i may have put mine back on with some lube still on and ran it a few times anything i can do to regrease the spindle bearing. fortunatly i only have about 3 hours total on the machine

Thanks
Craig

[Jeff_Birt]

If you take the 'top hat' off the Z-truck (two screws) you have access to the top of the bearing. You can wipe up any excess flex shaft lube and then very carefully pry the bearing seal up from the outside edge with a utility (or Xacto) knife. You should then be able to grease the bearing and pop the seal back in place. If you have popped the seals off a bearing before it's not a big deal. The key is to take it slow and not damage the seal.

[zeke]

Kenm810 is the method of lubing you mentioned back in June still working well for you?

[afuzz]

Can someone tell me what kind of lube or grease you should use on the shaft. I have already burned through one shaft and i think close to another. Also how do you apply the grease and where. Thanks in advance for any info you can give me.

[Kenm810]

Hey zeke,

Yep it still works, I just relubing it in mid December, remember to wipe off any excess Moly lube,
also I now let mine drip dry for a while before reinstalling it in the machine.
You really don't want any exess lube to get into the carving head bearings and causing problems. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif


afuzz,

This is one of my old posts Quote -- Take the twist tie off the Flex-Shaft, it’s primarily there for shipping purposes.
If you feel the need to fasten the Flex-Shaft to the wire support loop use a light wrap of black vinyl electrical tape.
Now before you run your machine Please check theflex-Shaft for proper lubrication. L716 Industrial Chain Lubricant with Moly.
Some of the machines have come through with no lube or insufficient lube on the shaft.
There are several posts in this thread about how to and what has to be watched and lubed when necessary
The Flex-Shaft should never be allowed to get hotter then worm to the touch.
Do a forum Search on the proper flex-shaft lube and how to do it along with the other spots and parts that will need proper lubrications.

I use a piece of ¼ or 5/16 inch ID. Polyvinyl clear aquarium tubing filled with the spray moly lube and the ends plugged with a couple ¼ x 1 inch pieces of dowel rod.
Then hang on a nail with a tie wrap over night, next day I wipe the flex-shaft off and let it dry on some toweling before reinstalling it in the machine. (Be careful moly lube can be messy) If you do reuse any of the moly lube remember, to mix of stir it up a little the contents do separate after a few days.

[Jeff_Birt]

afuzz, as Ken said the information is out there...fifth post down in announcements to be exact..

http://www.carvewright.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1470

[zeke]

Excellent, one other question I may have overlooked but I assume you don't soak the spring just the flexshaft. Is that a good assumption?

[Jeff_Birt]

Yes, no need to soak the spring. Just wipe it off if it looks dirty.