Another chuck question...

[BearlyRich]

I seem to have the same stuck chuck problem that so many have talked about. I read all the postings, did the cleaning a lube...

Where it sits now is having one position where I can fairly easily unlock the chuck and get the bit out. Thank goodness for that red line so I know where I'm applying the pressure. It either doesn't work or is extremely difficult to unlock in any other rotational position. And, this is only with the 1/16 carving bit. If I install the 1/8 bit, I can't unlock the chuck with my fingers at all.

What I've been doing when using the 1/8 bit is tapping up on the collar with the plastic handle of a screw driver until it finally pops up. I don't think I'm hitting it hard enough to damage anything, but???

My real question to all this is maybe some opinions. Do you folks think this chuck will eventually loosen up? I've got about 10 hours of carving on it now with maybe two dozen bit changes. Will something eventually be damaged by the tapping on the collar? Or should I just go the route to have it repaired with a good working chuck? This is a Sears machine by the way....

Thanks for any experienced opinions...

[Jeff_Birt]

What type of lubricant are you using? And, are you cleaning and lubing the cheuck adn adpaters EVERY time you use the machine. ALso, don't blow the machine out without a bit in place, this keeps stuff from gettign up in the chuck.

[BearlyRich]

I clean & lube after every carve. I do not use a blower at all on the machine. I do use a high powered shop vac and remove every bit of dust I can find, including using a small nozzle up under the open chuck.

Right now I'm using Marvel lubricating oil. I like it better than 3in1, which I don't have any of at the moment...

The chuck and 1/16 bit have been better since the lubrication. But the 1/8 bit is just impossible. I did recently get my spare set of bits and plan on trying the new 1/8. I'm wondering if there is a slight difference in adapters.

Thanks...

[benluz]

I clean & lube after every carve. I do not use a blower at all on the machine. I do use a high powered shop vac and remove every bit of dust I can find, including using a small nozzle up under the open chuck.

Right now I'm using Marvel lubricating oil. I like it better than 3in1, which I don't have any of at the moment...

The chuck and 1/16 bit have been better since the lubrication. But the 1/8 bit is just impossible. I did recently get my spare set of bits and plan on trying the new 1/8. I'm wondering if there is a slight difference in adapters.

Thanks...

Take a mirror and look at the outer edges of the chuck,it gets impacted with sawdust and has to be brushed and blow with high pressure and then re-lubed,Always handy to have a spare solid chuck I made my own ,but I gave a metal worker the idea and I think he is going to make a bunch of them to sell,if the quick route goes down,just unscrew and screw on the solid,but does have bit changing capabilities by way of the 2 set screw.
Ben

[BearlyRich]

I carved again tonight. Same problem and not getting any better...

Yes, I'll have to look inside the chuck. I suppose it would be a good idea to look into removing it for a real better look. I just got the Sears Quickrout kit with the not-quite-same chuck and now I see how it's supposed to work. If my machine chuck worked like this new one, I'd be a happy camper.

If the machine becomes a 'keeper' than a new solid chuck would be welcomed. I would love to see a new designed one that doesn't have these problems...

Since the flex shaft is now getting way too hot, it might be time to take that out and also take out the chuck? Although I wonder about warranty. If I start disassembling the thing, what does that do to my warranty? I'd sure hate to lose the machine for a week or two just because of a stuck chuck...

Overall, I just love this machine. Maybe it's just me or that it's still new, but I can stand there for hours watching the bit carving :p

[benluz]

I carved again tonight. Same problem and not getting any better...

Yes, I'll have to look inside the chuck. I suppose it would be a good idea to look into removing it for a real better look. I just got the Sears Quickrout kit with the not-quite-same chuck and now I see how it's supposed to work. If my machine chuck worked like this new one, I'd be a happy camper.

If the machine becomes a 'keeper' than a new solid chuck would be welcomed. I would love to see a new designed one that doesn't have these problems...

Since the flex shaft is now getting way too hot, it might be time to take that out and also take out the chuck? Although I wonder about warranty. If I start disassembling the thing, what does that do to my warranty? I'd sure hate to lose the machine for a week or two just because of a stuck chuck...

Overall, I just love this machine. Maybe it's just me or that it's still new, but I can stand there for hours watching the bit carving :p

As long as you feel confident in removing the chuck they will not make you send it back,they will send you a new one and I believe they now include the wrenches ,which makes it really easy,I had to make modify tools when I did mine.
Ben

[MarkJamesDesign]

Rich,
I called CW and told them I had a sticky chuck and I had a new one in 3 days. This was before the wrench and square driver info popped up on the boards so I'll be asking for those b4 I change it out.

[BearlyRich]

Thanks for all the info. It looks like I'll be giving them a call next week.

I spent about an hour with the chuck tonight. After the posts, I used a mirror only to see a beautifully clean chuck with no visible damage. Then I blew it out just in case. Re-lubed, still sticks. Blew it out, then tried the dry molly lube and another blow out. Same. More oil, 3in1 this time... All through I worked the chuck by holding the top with the wrench from the QuickRout kit and twisting the collar. At one point it started working like a brand new chuck. I thought it was all solved. Then it just started sticking again, better and worse. Gives me the feeling that there's a metal filing (of good size) inside the chuck? I worked it with the wrench till my fingers were numb... Still no better. The only good thing is that with the new wrench, I can more eaisly free it up with a twist instead of a push or pull. That's much better than the hitting with the screwdriver handle ;)

But it's still not right and who knows if it will get better or worse? So I'll see about a replacement next week... So far, if this gets resolved easily, I'll still be very happy with the machine... Oh, that might also depend on the flax cable and molly lube treatment as it started getting very hot that last carve. I'll find out how that worked tomorrow...

[benluz]

Thanks for all the info. It looks like I'll be giving them a call next week.

I spent about an hour with the chuck tonight. After the posts, I used a mirror only to see a beautifully clean chuck with no visible damage. Then I blew it out just in case. Re-lubed, still sticks. Blew it out, then tried the dry molly lube and another blow out. Same. More oil, 3in1 this time... All through I worked the chuck by holding the top with the wrench from the QuickRout kit and twisting the collar. At one point it started working like a brand new chuck. I thought it was all solved. Then it just started sticking again, better and worse. Gives me the feeling that there's a metal filing (of good size) inside the chuck? I worked it with the wrench till my fingers were numb... Still no better. The only good thing is that with the new wrench, I can more eaisly free it up with a twist instead of a push or pull. That's much better than the hitting with the screwdriver handle ;)

But it's still not right and who knows if it will get better or worse? So I'll see about a replacement next week... So far, if this gets resolved easily, I'll still be very happy with the machine... Oh, that might also depend on the flax cable and molly lube treatment as it started getting very hot that last carve. I'll find out how that worked tomorrow...

I took mine completely apart,knocked it out of the plastic housing and so on,there was a metal worker on here who did the same think and he said a burr developed on part of the chuck and he could see why it didn't work,but I don't think he was able to fix it.When I dissembled mine,I did not inspect the parts that closely I was only trying to swap the chuck out with the sears version,but it would not come apart far enough to get access to the main components,so I ended up tack welding a bit adapter into the tapered sleeve until my new chuck arrived it worked great. Another metal worker on here, I forget his name is going to make a bunch up for sale.Mine runs as true as a stock one with no added vibration
Ben

[JOHNB]

(QUOTE; BEARLYRICH)-Overall, I just love this machine. Maybe it's just me or that it's still new, but I can stand there for hours watching the bit carving

IT CAN BECOME ADDICTTING, BUT SING WITH ME=THE Z ON THE TRUCK GOES BACK AND FORTH, BACK AND FORTH, BACK AND FORTH......LOL

[BearlyRich]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

[Gary]

x and y go back and forth. z goes up and down when it works right.

Happy carving,

Gary

[BearlyRich]

Almost final resolution...

After "playing" with the chuck for hours, I gave up and called Carvewright today. Spoke to a few very friendly people, and they're sending me a new "QC". As long as I don't have any problems getting the old one off, I should be a fairly happy camper once it arrives.

Thank you Carvewright! Great service.

[Gman_Ind]

I am still using the Teflon dry film lube. I 'dry fire' the empty collet buy snapping it a few times to dislodge sawdust. I now just use my fingers to remove the collet.

[JOHNB]

Almost final resolution...

After "playing" with the chuck for hours, I gave up and called Carvewright today. Spoke to a few very friendly people, and they're sending me a new "QC". As long as I don't have any problems getting the old one off, I should be a fairly happy camper once it arrives.

Thank you Carvewright! Great service.

I DONT KNOW IF YOU'RE AWARE OF IT OR NOT BUT TAKE OFF THE TOP HAT OF THE Z-TRUCK TO BE SURE YOU GOT A GOOD FIT WITH YOUR LITTLE SQ. ALLEN WRENCH. I HAD NO PROBLEMS WITH REMOVING MINE...

[Sarge]

As alot do, I clean mine quite frequently. The only (and unauthorized) lube I use on the QC is Remington gun oil. Just a spritz on the chuck, a light rub of my finger up inside and that's it. I can remove and replace the QC by hand. I just figured if it's good enough for my 1911 and M14, its good enough for my CC.

[BearlyRich]

Thanks JohnB. We'll see what happens when it gets here.

Funny, they asked me on the phone if I tried lubing it with 3in1. Maybe that's semi authorized? I've always been fond of Marvel "Mystery Oil". Not only like the smell bubt if it doesn't burn up in an auto engine cylinder, it's gotta be good stuff. Beyond that I also like the Rem oil and Ballistol. I would just hate using something that at some point may do damage or void a warranty?

I did the molly spray for the flex shaft and that seemed to help a little bit. I've also read that no lube should be used near or on the bearings. I'm not sure about that? Sure, fine for a new machine but what about a hundred or two hours later? Another thing to worry about when I get there...

[BearlyRich]

Anyone for a little more help or suggestions?

Carvewright was very fast at getting the new chuck to me and I finally had the chance of trying to install it tonight. No luck...

Even though they did NOT include the wrench or instructions as they said they would, I did come up with a square "wrench" and have the big wrench for the Sear Quickrout kit. I applied torque to the chuck to the point where I was afraid I would break something. I could feel the wrench starting to give a bit and knew any more would hurt something. I tried heating the chuck with a heat gun, but only a little heat. Didn't help...

Then I spent the last hour reading through all the old posts about removing the chuck. Seems noone else has had much of a problem, with heat being the final removal tool.

My question is, how much heat? That collar around the chuck is not metal. I would really like to not destroy it in getting the old chuck off, so I don't want to melt it. Plus there's a sensor nearby and the bearings above it. Any clues as to how much I can really heat the chuck up to or maybe a better way than a heat gun? I sure don't want to have to send this thing in just for a chuck...

Thanks for any suggestions...

[liquidguitars]

BR,
You will need a good 5 to 10 min at med heat, just on the QC. Wrap the truck with a wet rag if you can. The heat will transfer up the shaft and bingo!.

Just one drop of Lock tight on the QC when re-installing.
I put way to much LT last time, and had a devil of a time removing it.

LG

[BearlyRich]

5 to 10 minutes. Wow, okay. I didn't dare heat it that long when I tried but will hit it again as soon as I get the chance. And that's great advice about the wet wrap. I didn't think of that and I used to weld/braze auto body panels...

I will certainly give a very light "one drop" of LT when reassembling ;-)

Thanks!