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Eagleheart
05-10-2007, 08:41 AM
Been looking through the forum for this issue....can't find anything similar. Have a new Sears unit and have used it only on practice boards. At first, what I thought is normal, now appears to be a problem.
After inserting the board, (long or short, under rollers or not) the head calibrates and begins carving. After approx. 1" of work completed, the bit/head begins progressively deeper carving until it is completely through the wood. Sample pics can be seen at http://www.eagleheart.com/woodcarve
It has happened with 12" board and 4' board. I've edited projects to text only, graphics only and both. Haven't found the fix yet and need help. Does it sound like a 'return to Sears' item??? Thanks for the help. Stan
Jeff_Birt
05-10-2007, 08:56 AM
Stan, this is a common problem, usually related to a problem with teh Z-axis encoder. LHR (the mfg) will email you a shipping lable and fix it (and do all upgrades on the machine). Or, they will send you a z-motor assembly and you can swap it our yourself. Just give CW/LHR a call.
RBeau1954
05-12-2007, 01:18 AM
That is the problem, z-axis board had some weak solder joints and the new or rebuilt ones are better. Only problem is they are out of stock on those, you might be better off sending yours in for repair, you might get it back faster. I was half way through a 3 hr project on a nice piece of walnut when it decided to cut all the way through, bummer, but I got my motor today and installed it but haven't run it yet. There are PDF's in here on how to take out the motor.

Rick
JOHNB
05-12-2007, 10:21 AM
Or You Can Try This???lol

But Then This Is For A Z-axis "stall". Yours Might Only Need One Rubber Band
benluz
05-12-2007, 04:29 PM
Pull the cover off the z drive motor and take a volt meter to the encoder board leads ,should read 24 volt.Also if with the power on your z-movement should feel stiff if it moves like power was off ,then the motor is not getting voltage.When my encoder goes out LHR just sends me the encoder board,I told them to keep the motor, mine was fine.If you can solder and assuming it's not the optical reader that has a wire up inside that breaks and is hard to get to,but I soldered those as well.It just takes patience and a steady hand and you learn a lot.it's a little more involved and decide you want to tackle it...et me know I have fixed mine many times,but not since the last one I filled the optical encoder with epoxy to support the leads to the pcb and Have not had a problem since
Ben
benluz
05-12-2007, 04:31 PM
Or You Can Try This???lol

But Then This Is For A Z-axis "stall". Yours Might Only Need One Rubber Band

Is this for extreme carving ...where water and mud fly into the machine?
liquidguitars
05-13-2007, 05:30 AM
Keeps the encoder weel from getting dirty.

LG
benluz
05-13-2007, 07:06 AM
Keeps the encoder weel from getting dirty.

LG

Yes...I had figured that....I was just horsing around with you, I noticed you removed the cooling housing that slides over the motor,we use liquid nails around the aluminum housing to keep it from moving around.I have had many z-encoder problems always from solder joints breaking or a wire to the circuit board,I had a misstep that kept occurring giving me and uneven cut and I cleaned the encoder with a q-tip on both sides and got a little black dust off,but it did not fix the problem.I soldered on a new encoder board and it was back to normal.
Ben
liquidguitars
05-13-2007, 12:42 PM
Hi Ben,
I thought you did... but that's not my Z pack... I am using blue tape :p

good to know about the encoder fix tho...
benluz
05-13-2007, 01:51 PM
Hi Ben,
I thought you did... but that's not my Z pack... I am using blue tape :p

good to know about the encoder fix tho...

I admit I use a rubber band also! Tied to the z-ribbon cable to give it some lift, as it travels the loop in the ribbon cable hits the y motor cooling fins.
Ben
benluz
05-13-2007, 08:06 PM
Hi Ben,
I thought you did... but that's not my Z pack... I am using blue tape :p

good to know about the encoder fix tho...

Hey Liq, when do you want to buy some extreme looking spalted maple for some top, as soon as the new kiln is completed I be cranking them any many other species in large quantity.
Ben
HillBilly
05-14-2007, 12:07 AM
Aww heck, where`s my "super glue" ?.. ;)
liquidguitars
05-15-2007, 08:03 AM
Hey Liq, when do you want to buy some extreme looking spalted maple for some top, as soon as the new kiln is completed I be cranking them any many other species in large quantity.
Ben

sounds good Ben,
I have a maple board with spalt that I want to ues but it has lots of soft pockets in it, I was thinking about using epoxy to firm up the wood sap.

send photos when you get a chance! :D

LG