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Signmaker
05-04-2007, 02:39 PM
Ok. I,ve tried using the removal tool to the point of doing damage. WD-40 soak and still no release. The bit/adapter is loose, I can see half of the small allen screw but it will not come out. I think it is a mechanical problem, not a rust problem (bit/adapter wiggles) although I will pay CLOSE attention to the rust problem after reading the posts!

Should I call CW? I would rather fix it now then wait for a replacement. It was a bear, make that a stuggle, getting the chuck to come up to insert the bit/adapter when I first used the machine. I've had it now for 2 days.


There should be a tag on the chuck advising use of oil and cleaning.

I Googled Boeshield T-9, interesting. How does it differ from WD-40?

Thanks,
Signmaker

Gman_Ind
05-04-2007, 02:52 PM
I have been having sticking and almost picked up the hammer, DON"T DO IT!
I have been using a Dupont dry film lube with Teflon, I have tested it for several hours of operation. and now I only use my fingers to remove the chuck. I use the tool upside down to pull down on the bit to insure it is seated firmly. I leave a broken bit right next to the good ones to remind me to check it every time.
I give it a light oiling every other time or after a long detail carving.
I use an inspection mirror and make sure the chuck is immaculately clean inside.
be sure the Allen head screws are tight in the bit adapters as well.

upcedar
05-04-2007, 04:33 PM
I had that sticky-chuc problem and found out my 'little red' line was off, easy fix. Just keep pecking lightly, try different spot's, it should come loose. Rick

Signmaker
05-04-2007, 05:06 PM
I had that sticky-chuc problem and found out my 'little red' line was off, easy fix. Just keep pecking lightly, try different spot's, it should come loose. Rick

Thanks Rick,

I wanted to ask about the red line but 4got.

I'm keeping it wet w/WD-40 and playing with the removal tool. It's really in there!

I just got one of those mini-lathes. I'm thinking of making a collar/gear puller thingy to get it out.

Hey! It's spots not spot's. I'm with the grammar police (and I use 4got, look whose talking).

Rats, now I have to cut two sign logos by hand.

Tanks again youse guys,
Signmaker

liquidguitars
05-04-2007, 05:15 PM
you can tap the router bit shank lightly to the side with a flat wrench to unlock the dirt,
I need to do this on my router sometimes. but get a new QC when you can.

LG

Signmaker
05-04-2007, 05:42 PM
you can tap the router bit shank lightly to the side with a flat wrench to unlock the dirt,
I need to do this on my router sometimes. but get a new QC when you can.

LG

Dude! We are on the same wave length! After posting about my chuck I was cking out Troubleshooting PDF's (I think) and was looking at YOUR site!

I was thinking "Gotta comment to him that I rode thru Ojai from Chatsworth on my way to Santa Barbara on my new Harley Sportster!"

BTW, the day AFTER I was trying out my new bike riding back and forth in front of the cemetery in Chats (I lived on Devonshire right around the corner) the white supremacist shot the Philippino mailman exactly where I was the day before.

Small world or what! I'll be back in Cal in a year or so.

Signmaker
Mobile, Al

liquidguitars
05-04-2007, 06:41 PM
It's realy nice this time of year not to hot.. :)

LG

DDV
05-04-2007, 06:47 PM
The bit/adapter is loose, I can see half of the small allen screw but it will not come out. I think it is a mechanical problem, not a rust problem (bit/adapter wiggles)
Signmaker

That is the same way my chuck was acting. Below is part of a post I made a week or so ago about my chuck. Sounds like the same problem,
DDV

"After taken the stuck chuck apart I found the reason it was stuck and stopped working right. There are three balls that engage the radial groove in the bit adapter that pull-up and locks the adapter in the taper of the chuck as it rotates into the locked position . The bit adapter is driven by the two small screws that also hold the bit in place. These screws contact an overlapping opposing cam arrangement which as the cams turn close on and lock onto the screws and in turn drives the adapter and bit. At this contact point the adapter screws embedded themselfs into the cam section wall. This action destroyed the cam form and rolled a sharp burr to the inside closing up the working clearance between the two opposing cams thus making it difficult to move. That also explains why some people have unstuck the chuck by twisting and hitting it on the outer ring. The hitting action rolls the burr back to the outside or deforms it and opens up the working clearance . ( Like hitting a stuck nut on a bolt which sometimes makes it easy to turn) That may not be a good idea being that outer ring is plastic and could break and being plastic it deaden the blow anyway. The twisting action helps dislodge the screws from the deformed area on the face of the cam."

Signmaker
05-04-2007, 08:02 PM
That is the same way my chuck was acting. Below is part of a post I made a week or so ago about my chuck. Sounds like the same problem,
DDV

"After taken the stuck chuck apart I found the reason it was stuck and stopped working right. There are three balls that engage the radial groove in the bit adapter that pull-up and locks the adapter in the taper of the chuck as it rotates into the locked position . The bit adapter is driven by the two small screws that also hold the bit in place. These screws contact an overlapping opposing cam arrangement which as the cams turn close on and lock onto the screws and in turn drives the adapter and bit. At this contact point the adapter screws embedded themselfs into the cam section wall. This action destroyed the cam form and rolled a sharp burr to the inside closing up the working clearance between the two opposing cams thus making it difficult to move. That also explains why some people have unstuck the chuck by twisting and hitting it on the outer ring. The hitting action rolls the burr back to the outside or deforms it and opens up the working clearance . ( Like hitting a stuck nut on a bolt which sometimes makes it easy to turn) That may not be a good idea being that outer ring is plastic and could break and being plastic it deaden the blow anyway. The twisting action helps dislodge the screws from the deformed area on the face of the cam."

Yep, I'll proly have more trouble with it. Time for replacement of my BRAND NEW chuck!

Thanks,
Signmaker

Signmaker
05-08-2007, 06:10 PM
Got my callback from CW teck support.

The guy said to turn the bit/adapter clockwise. Hard 2 do if the chuck turns too. I put the plastic sleeve back on... already sliced my finger once. And he said to push up on it. He also said to put some 3-in-one oil on it... how 'bout Harley Davidson 20-50 oil... Anyway it seems a little looser (I had hit it with WD40). But still not OFF!

I have lots of 10 guage steel lying around. Think I'll make a wench.

Anybody know how to remove the chuck? That is how to hold it from turning.

Thanks,
Signmaker

Hey, 3 in one is a advertising gimmick... it's just light oil!

swhitney
05-08-2007, 07:37 PM
I have used the Boshield T-9 stuff and really like it, I give a little squirt on the adapter every few carvings, and have not had this problem lately. I do wipe off any excess. If the QC looks a little "dry" i will sparingly spray and wipe it as well.

Signmaker
05-08-2007, 09:26 PM
Just ordered the Boeshield Kit which is the T-9 and rust free which removes rust and stains from metals (for all my toys). www.theruststore.com.

I "tRUST" it will work.

Signmaker

forqnc
05-09-2007, 06:58 AM
Anybody know how to remove the chuck? That is how to hold it from turning.
Thanks,
Signmaker


Basically remove the flex shaft from the chuck head, now you need to insert something square (size of flex shaft) into the chuck to prevent it from turning. Now take you wrench and unscrew the chuck. If you search the forums you'll find sizes for the square tool. I ground down an old Screwdriver, others have used an allen wrench ground down.

Signmaker
05-09-2007, 09:34 PM
I made a wrench from 1/8" steel, ground down a steel rod, bent it and went at it.

It just twisted up my squared tool, tried an allen wrench. It jammed. Got it out.

I decided to twist the adapter. Vise grips on the adapter and my "wrench" on the chuck. It worked. Used the removal tool & it dropped out. I made sure the chuck goes up & down, added oil.

BUT, the chuck wobbles a little. I played with the adapter & got it so close to center I left it alone & carved out a shell.

Works fine!

Put oil in the gap on top edge of chuck. Put both index fingers under the flange that goes around the chuck, curled back to you, thumbs on top of the truck back enuf so that they touch the wheels. Go up n down 'till it feels good! :-)


Ta-Da!
Signmaker

liquidguitars
05-10-2007, 12:31 AM
BUT, the chuck wobbles a little. keep an eye on it..

LG

forqnc
05-10-2007, 06:44 AM
keep an eye on it..

LG

I agree, a small wobble can, overtime, wear into a big wobble.

rjustice
05-10-2007, 08:05 AM
Barring the fact that the machine would technically still be under warranty, I wouldnt accept the wobble in the chuck. Reason being, that if it is running out, it is throwing the spindle out of balance, which will no doubt wear out the bearings over time. I would have to do a little digging to get good numbers, but up in the 20,000 RPM range, the centrifugal force of a small runout can exert extreme pressure on the bearings.

On larger tooling that we use in the mold making industry, you can be talking hundreds of lbs of outward force placed on the spindle bearings.

I realize I am comparing a $200,000 CNC machine tool to a router spindle, but these things are all relative. Personally, I wouldn't accept this.

my 2 cents...

Ron

Kenm810
05-10-2007, 08:08 AM
Quote - forqnc,
a small wobble can, overtime, wear into a big wobble.

You could kinda think of it like drinking -- drink a little, you get a little Woozy.
Drink a little more and you could end up on the floor with a Big Woozy.

Hexe SA
05-10-2007, 09:49 AM
Quote - forqnc,
a small wobble can, overtime, wear into a big wobble.

You could kinda think of it like drinking -- drink a little, you get a little Woozy.
Drink a little more and you could end up on the floor with a Big Woozy.

turned into a loose bit that retrieved into the chuck. Happened last night. Didn't think much about a small wobble. Got everything out and up and running again, but my fingers can tell it wasn't easy. No more small wobbles for me.
Eva