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skylineguitar
04-12-2007, 12:10 PM
Hey All,
Been playin' around with the new toy for a couple of weeks, now. Damn, is this thing cool!! I just wish I had more time. No major problems so far. I'll list the questions and lessons learned at the end. For now I just want to show off. I guess I still have a lot to figure out with the software, but I'm learning. Here's some of my handywork:

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/skylineguitar/CarvewrightResults009.jpg
This one is for the house.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/skylineguitar/CarvewrightResults005.jpg
My first attempt at the address sign.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/skylineguitar/CarvewrightResults007.jpg
This one's for a friend's company.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o247/skylineguitar/CarvewrightResults010.jpg
This one is from a photograph of my dogs, Jake and Elwood.

In the first one, for some reason, the piece didn't carve true to the project I designed. The 'M' in the first heart was supposed to be at the same angle as the heart and the letter in the second heart didn't show up at all. In the second one, it chipped out like crazy. In the third, the filagrees were too small and thin and they chipped out. Same with the thin parts of the 'S' (I did the Utah emblem and letter using my paint program). The fourth should have been inverted but still think it's pretty cool. These were all done on some scrap oak I found doing some dumpster diving behind a cabinet shop. I don't want to spend a lot of cash at the lumber yard just to experiment. Here's the breakdown:
1. Damn, this thing is cool!
2. I seem to have better luck with chip out when carving with the grain instead of across.
3. When doing lettering and other figures with right angle edges, it's best not to make them too thin.
4. Damn, this thing is cool!
5. I've had some trouble with the "not so quick change bit" system. I lubed it up with some 3-in-1. It's a lot better, but still a little stiff.

Questions:
I apologize if this has been covered in the forum but I can't find it. How do I put images into greyscale? It would be cool to minipulate photographs.
How many hours will I get out of my bits carving hard stuff like oak?
Is there a cheaper replacement somewhere for the 1/16" carving bit?
The software calls it a 1/16" ballnose bit while the machine calls it a 1/16" carving bit. They're the same bit right?
Thanks, All!
Oh, did I mention this thing's pretty damn cool?

RC Woodworks
04-12-2007, 12:22 PM
Sky, you had chip out with the second project from having your height set too high. Maybe too deep too. I have had this problem so I set the height to 750 not 999 and depth at 1/8. Then use a 1/16 bit I tried a 60 degree but the 1/16th that came with the machine is the best.

Most of your issues will be in the height and how deep you carve the project. I suggest you do what I did, I took a 12" scrap board and put several words at different settings and chose the ones that came out best.

-Rick

Sarge
04-12-2007, 03:46 PM
I agree somewhat with the height of items being a factor. Another issue.... you were cutting WITH the grain on the second pic. It lends to tear out or chip out. The width of the lettering is another contributing factor.

Kenm810
04-12-2007, 04:26 PM
Hey Guys,
Did you notice or did he mention the straight line dip between the 5 and the S in skylinguitar’s second photo (My first Attempt at the address sign). The same thing happened on one of carvings yesterday, By the way it was told to stay under the rollers. Any thoughts on a cause, I really haven’t seen it before myself.

Good thought John (#6 post) I'll measure and check it out Tomorrow while I'm in the shop

pamjmayo
04-12-2007, 04:36 PM
I had this happen to a polar bear that I carved. The next time I did it, it came out fine. Never thought to question it either....I suppose I should have.

Greybeard
04-12-2007, 04:58 PM
It might be worth measuring the distance from the end of the board to the dip.
It would be relevant if several people had different projects, but all the projects had the same distance.
I suppose it would also be relevant if everyone was different, just a different cause
:)

John

RanUtah
04-12-2007, 06:00 PM
Thats pretty nice Skyline and few good lessons there too. I've been getting mine ready to I get a few things cranked out. Where in Utah are you? I'm in Taylorsville.

JPAULFISH
04-12-2007, 06:18 PM
i had the same problem on my last carving, i thought the board might have hit the outer roller and hung up on it before it rolled over.

rjustice
04-12-2007, 06:23 PM
Hey Guys,
Did you notice or did he mention the straight line dip between the 5 and the S in skylinguitar’s second photo (My first Attempt at the address sign). The same thing happened on one of carvings yesterday, By the way it was told to stay under the rollers. Any thoughts on a cause, I really haven’t seen it before myself.

Good thought John (#6 post) I'll measure and check it out Tomorrow while I'm in the shop

Ken,
I have had a couple things cause this problem... if your sign is long enough to reach the steel support roller when it is exiting the machine, It can lift the workpiece as it rides up on the roller. Im sure you probably know that the rollers need to be set even to the surface of the belts, which i did meticulously myself... the problem i ran into is that the boards sometime have just enough bow to cause them to be slightly lifted by the roller... hence causing the line....
Another cause which causes more sporatic lines, is if dust builds up on top of the board where the rubber rollers are pressing against the wood. The increased tension pressing down on the wood from the sawdust being on top causes a variation in the depth of cut... Im not sure if it is raising the head up or pressing the grit belt down... but none the less it is varying the cut depth. In my opinion that is another great reason to get the downdraft table with a slight air blow nozzle on the head adapted as soon as you can. If i get all my stuff cut tomorrow, i will be working on my table this weekend...

Ron

Bill
04-12-2007, 06:51 PM
hello Ken,
Good eye I did not pay any attention to it before. http://www.carvewright.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

Kenm810
04-12-2007, 07:42 PM
Skylineguitar,

This is why I think this is Great forum, you can share your projects, ask questions, and get the help, answers, and the support we all need from time to time. I will check the project length in relationship the outer rollers JPAULFISH, and if anything that may have affected the pressure rollers. The low pressure air sweep on the cutting head has been doing its job of keeping the chips from accumulating on the carving surface as you mentioned Ron. And Bill as for a good eye, I’m not so sure about that, most days I have to put on a pair of glasses in the morning just to find my glasses so I don’t trip over my machine.

Nice to meet you Skylineguitar
And Thanks Again All

Ps. I talked to Chris (The Bard) this after noon, And He said Hi to everyone.;)