Drilling Holes

[cjones]

I have layed out a board with drill holes every some far. The problem is, I have set the diameter to .25" but a .25" dowl will not fit into it. Do I need to have some sort of offset added? Attached is a pic of what I am talking about.

Thanks,

CHris Jones

[bergerud]

This is wood. Are the dowels really 1/4". Does a 1/4" drill bit shank fit in the holes? I have been quite impressed with the accuracy of drill holes. But, a dull bit may bend a little and make a smaller hole. In any case, I would drill test holes until I got the size I wanted, then apply the size to all the holes. (Note if you select all the holes, you can change all their sizes at once in the diameter box in the tool bar. I would use the snap grid to place the holes.)

[cjones]

Thanks (https://forum.carvewright.com/member.php?5859-bergerud) bergerud (https://forum.carvewright.com/member.php?5859-bergerud). I did try to increase the size of the hole to .26 and the dowel was still a little bit not fitting so I grabbed my drill bits and started with teh1/4" bit, it fit no prob. Jumped up a size and still tight. Tried the 17/64 bit and the dowel fit perfectly. My bit is a little dull. I should have gotten my new one I purchased at the conference but did not think of it in time. Oh, the 17/64 was equal to .266 so I am glad I did not go to .27

Thanks again,

Chris

[fwharris]

I would measure your dowel, higher humidity will make them expand.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Something that helped me was a slot board... Gets me closer quicker when I am designing a project. The actual wood project is subject to humidity and shop heat in the winter so it is a "Close".

[MRcarvey]

Feeling a little dense :confused: How do you use that?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Feeling a little dense :confused: How do you use that?

In the beginning I would use it to get me close to the size slot I needed by measuring the wood version or doing a test fit on my wood version then using the numbers for that block in designer on my prototype. It just took the simple math out of it... Later I understood better the math and would do it in designer. I thought a hole version with a few sizes of holes would help with the dowel project.

I even bet that the physical output would be different between each of my machines due to calibration being different with each machine.

As you can see the date on the pictures are November 2007 when I was just learning the machine and it's CNC Capability just floored me... Having that much power over wood...

AL

[cjones]

Thanks everyone for the help. This is acutally shelves from a cabinet my wife bought. They are made of plywood with the main problem is that there is a lip on the front of the board just over 1/2" below the bottom of the main board. I was carving using the UCB. I took a piece of 1/2" baltic birch and cut it to the same width as the board needing the hols to level the board in the UCB. Still had several issues but was able to get past them. For some reason, when the CW measured the width, it would start on the outside of the UCB and not the board itself. I used tape but that did not seem to matter. I had to fill in some out of place holes on a couple of them but all-in-all, my wife is happy. Any feedback would be appreciated, always learning easier ways to get things done. I have attached a couple pictures of the completed work.

Chris

[bergerud]

For some reason, when the CW measured the width, it would start on the outside of the UCB and not the board itself. I used tape but that did not seem to matter.

The black tops of the UCB have to be nice and black and under where the board sensor travels.