PDA

View Full Version : Y access stall - E05-0314



CheriWhite
05-08-2018, 03:40 PM
Hear that sound? That's me banging my head against the wall.

Why did this happen? Can anyone shed some light?

It was running just fine and then it's like the machine got confused as to which direction it was going...cut off path and then stalled. Got error code E05-0314.
Was cutting 1/2" mdf with 3/16 bit.

8593285933

I went back to the file to see if I messed up something...it doesn't appear to be. Or am I missing something??

85934
Thanks in advance!

bergerud
05-08-2018, 05:28 PM
Did you see what happened? Did the piece break out and jam? If so, higher tabs may be in order. MDF is not very strong.

CheriWhite
05-08-2018, 08:19 PM
bergerud

Oddly enough I was watching when it happened...just a normal glance over to make sure all was well.
I watched it start dropping down below any of the cuts and then it came back up and across the other letters and started to curve and then stopped.....stayed in the same place.....I was waiting for it to either pick up or start to move again but it shut down and gave the code.

When I cranked it up the missing piece was still in place but when I slid the board out it came out so it was free in there but I don't feel it was jammed or anything...like the board was cupped or anything.

The bit is not broken and is actually newish...only a few cuts on it.

The flex cable was barely warm to the touch.

SteveNelson46
05-08-2018, 08:36 PM
I agree with Dan. Increase your tab thickness.

CheriWhite
05-08-2018, 11:03 PM
I will try to increase the tabs...just for strength.

Any clue why it went wonky on the cut? It just started going anywhere not on the outline path where it was supposed to be. I circled where it's just a crooked dirt road somewhere! LOL I guess it got bored with the cut and tried a shortcut! LOL

I'll try it again. Thanks!

85938

bergerud
05-09-2018, 01:44 AM
Check out the brass roller. Something may have interfered with its tracking. When you press it down (like the board would), does the O ring touch the rubber belt??

How about low head pressure? The 3/16" cutting bit at full depth could have made the board slip on the belts??

DickB
05-09-2018, 08:15 AM
I've done a lot of cutouts, such as on this walleye sign. (I've made many of these.) I recommend that you use a sled. Mine has 3/4" plywood base, 1" rails, 4" end caps. The mass of the sled I believe dampens vibration, and the base and rail keeps the cutting bit away from the brass roller. The suspicion is that vibration induced into the brass wheel encoder causes it to be ignored. I have had exactly the type of problem that you have had without a sled. I can't remember the last time I had a problem - or if I ever did - using a sled. I always use one except for very rare cases (such as a 14" wide project). Plus, you will not waste material.

85939 85940

CheriWhite
05-09-2018, 12:56 PM
I'll get busy on the sled, it sounds like a key element, plus I would like not to have the waste as well.

Thanks!

DickB
05-09-2018, 02:16 PM
There are different ways to set up your projects when using a sled. I generally use this method: a virtual board that is 2" wider and 8" longer than the actual project board. (In this case my project board is 23.5" x 11", as represented by the rectangle.) This takes into account the width of my sled's rails and the end caps. The sled is always going to be larger than the virtual board, and generally will not be measured in it's total length. Say "No" to Stay Under Rollers (but it will) and "Place On Corner" is the quickest and easiest in my opinion. With a 3/4" base, the bit will not find the sliding plate, so you will get asked to enter board thickness. Enter the thickness of your board, not board plus sled.

85943

CheriWhite
05-09-2018, 02:57 PM
I've seen the sled in another post here...it's open with just sides and a little ledge for the board to sit on and nut/bolts to cinch it together. What are your thoughts on that style? Would that eliminate the "thickness of the board" option.

I've seen the two styles and I just wondered what people use most often.

Thanks for the input...I'll be reading this post over and over to put it to memory!

Mugsowner
05-09-2018, 05:25 PM
A sled can be made very easily. You can tell machine where you want it to start carving. I have a few I use that are mdf boards with a 3.5" piece glued and screwed to the one end and another 3.5" piece screwed to the other end that almost doubles as a clamp . I place project board tight to glued side and screw the second board tight to the project board. if the project requires rails I screw them down as needed, most of you projects do not require rails. I also get my mdf from furniture or counter tops that are being tossed out. Saw the stuff up in what you need, and I know that there is no love lost on the wood being sacrificed, junk is junk and you can't wreck junk is one rule I run with.

DickB
05-09-2018, 07:20 PM
I'm not entirely sure I understand to what style you are referring, so I am taking a guess. So yes, an "open bottom" sled that matched the height of the workpiece would not draw the "thickness" prompt. But I still prefer my style sled with a 3/4" thick bottom. Responding to the prompt takes only a couple of seconds. Experience tells me that the extra mass of this design is beneficial. Also, on an open sled for a cutout the cutting bit is piercing the wood and coming very close to the brass roller vertically. In my sled it stays 3/4" away vertically. I think that is beneficial. The sled can also accommodate slightly warped wood or wood that is not perfectly square with ease.

It may not be obvious from the photos, but I use thumbscrews to clamp the workpiece into the sled. This is quick and easy. For workpieces that are not as wide as the sled, I keep several scrap pieces on hand and use them to fill the gap between workpiece and sled. So one sled can accommodate many different size projects. With some scrap 1/4" plywood I also accommodate 1/2" thick projects - just lay some scrap 1/4" material underneath the workpiece.

DianMayfield
05-13-2018, 05:51 AM
Hi Cheri,

I picked a bad month to be on the road for outages :) (movie Airplane reference, sorry)

If you look closely at your cut image, you will see that there are no tab marks in the larger piece that's missing (see the red arrow in the smaller piece).

When setting tabs in the cut window, consider the overall length of the cut the bit will travel for a line. With the design being 15x9 (not considering all the ins and outs of the detail) the bit was going to travel well over 48". The settings were only going to place 4 to 5 tabs on the entire perimeter cut. There was a very good chance that the center of the B would fall out and jam as well.

Jamming can be caused by pieces falling out and binding in the slot between the belts, a piece tipping up as it gets near the rollers (impossible to see), a loose piece "spinning" in the hole created in a cut loop (can break a bit too), a small piece coming loose and landing on top of the board and binding against the rollers. Yes, these have all happened to me! :)

If you use a solid sled for your words, some of these can be avoided. You can still get spinning and tip up (those rollers are exerting 70+ lbs of pressure on one end of a piece). And you can keep the tabs shorter, meaning less clean up. I always use a box cutter to clean up tabs in MDF (and sometimes pine).

Based on my experience, and everyone's experience may vary, for MDF on a sled, 1/8" tabs work great. I even do 1/16" on 1/4 inch cuts with no problems.
At a minimum, on longer perimeter cuts set Tab Spacing to 3 per foot. On the "blessed", I probably would have gone 4 or 5 because of the looping and the way the cuts are close or overlap - overlapping can remove a tab already cut.

E-mail me if you have any questions. I sent you my phone number via e-mail. You can text me, and I will call once I make it away from work. Crazy hrs :)

CheriWhite
05-14-2018, 01:43 PM
Oh that makes total sense!!! If I would have flipped the image would the tabs have shown from the back side? That way I would have known ahead of time that I didn't have enough tabs. I need to make it a practice to flip the virtual board and check that.

You've been so much help! I did get your email. Thank you Thank you Thank you!

CheriWhite
05-14-2018, 01:51 PM
So I went back to the file. Is there a setting to let me see tabs on the virtual board? That way I can verify I have enough or if there are any sections missing any?

bergerud
05-14-2018, 02:42 PM
Unfortunately, tabs for cut paths are not shown in Designer. (I think that where the tabs end up depends on where the cuts start and this is determined as the project is "compiled" onto the card.)

CheriWhite
05-14-2018, 03:45 PM
okee dokee...thanks bergerud!

Note to Designer software updaters.....please add an option to see where tabs are and also a rotate option (without having to buy another program) sometimes we just need to turn a letter or object to make less waste on the board.

THANKS!!!!