Cutter/scroll saw videos/demos?

[CheriWhite]

Hi!

Newbie here in sunny AZ with some questions!

Is there a thread/group for users who use their machines like a scroll saw? I don't carve or pierce. I cut out cursive words. I'm having issue after issue and, honestly, getting very discouraged.
I think I've got a pretty good handle on the program. Feelin' good there. However, each project I cut I get the "cut motor" error....I've seen in videos to just override it...so I do...it seems to work. The cable is not hot at all and it's only in the first 15 or so seconds of starting to cut that the error pops up. The machine has MAYBE 12 hours on it. The pressure is good. The screws and slides are good.

I mostly use 1/2" mdf with the 1/8" cutting bit. ALL my cuts are "choppy" needing hours of sanding. Is there a way to get a smoother cut? My setting is set to optimal...I'd rather it take the extra few minutes to get the better cut. My rollers are fine. The outfeed trays are a hint below the working piece. The bit that came with it and my new bit produced the same rough cut. It truly sounds like the bit is just gonna snap! It sounds like it's pushing through rock! Is it supposed to sound like it's struggling? I feel like MDF is pretty soft compared to some woods.

I've looked everywhere for cutting videos that are newer than 2009! I know this is a "carver" and not a cutter but you guys are doing it. There must be a trick! Help a girl out! I'm about to loose it! Show me whatcha got!

Thanks in advance!

[bergerud]

Maybe if you could post a project file (.mpc) and/or a picture of what you are doing, we could be of more help.

[DianMayfield]

Hi Sherri,

With 1/2 MDF I make it 2 passes. There is a lot of glue in MDF, and that can dull up the bit pretty quickly. Not by wear, but from heated up glue. I use "purple power", kinda like 409, and a brass gun cleaning brush between cut outs. I heat up the soap in the micro, let is soak for 15 minutes, then scrub with the brass brush. Toss in the toaster oven for 15 minutes to dry out.

My first 200 hours were almost all MDF cutouts.

The benefit of MDF is that sanding sponges clean it up FAST. I buy big batches from Harbor Freight. So it looks shaggy, and 30 seconds later you could never tell :). Only buy medium and fine. The coarse eats too much off.

Is your font laid out using the program, or are you pulling in images?? Low dpi in an image can cause serious rough edges.

[CheriWhite]

Hi!

Thanks for your response!

Dpi is something I didn't think about!!!! What dpi would you suggest??? I did use a font that I had to tweak in an external program and then import.

[SteveNelson46]

The cut motor error has been a topic of discussion for the last three Designer version and yet it still persists. It almost always occurs within the first few minutes of a vector carve or cut. Just press the enter key to continue. It's what we all have been doing for a long time.

[DianMayfield]

Hi Sherri,

300 would be minimum, 600 wouldn't be a bad idea :)

Are you using corel draw or another vector program to tweek the font, then converting to an image? If you will do a lot of vector files, the dxf importer will really make your life easier for what you are doing. Inkscape is a free vector drawing program.

The image below is in pine, but you can see the rough patches in the cut surface. This is sawdust and pitch build up, and is a real pain to get off. There is a lot of heat in a cut, and if the bit is just a little dull, you can see this. I found that making 2 passes really helps, but you may see some stair stepping between passes. This was an early "candy heart" attempt :)

[CheriWhite]

Hi Steve

Thanks for the response. Glad to know I'm not killing it by moving passed the error message.

[CheriWhite]

ya I was WAY off with only 96!!!! Oh pleeeeease let that be the issue! LOL

I use Inkscape since I'm most familiar with it.

I'm gonna try a higher dpi. And then run another one with the 2 pass process and see if I can tell the difference. Time would be an issue in there too I would assume since it has to go around twice?

Learning curves are fun! **said no one ever** LOL LOL

[CheriWhite]

85831 This was a quick cut using 1/2" mdf just to see if it would finish a piece. You can see the "bumpiness". Going to increase my dpi and see if that helps.

[DickB]

The cut motor error has been a topic of discussion for the last three Designer version and yet it still persists. It almost always occurs within the first few minutes of a vector carve or cut. Just press the enter key to continue. It's what we all have been doing for a long time.Interesting. I haven't had this issue once since the release of the firmware fix some time ago. I used to get it regularly with vector cuts and Centerline.

[SteveNelson46]

Interesting. I haven't had this issue once since the release of the firmware fix some time ago. I used to get it regularly with vector cuts and Centerline.

It does seem less frequent but it still happens occasionally. If I remember correctly, when the firmware fix was released they claimed that it may not be all inclusive.

[CheriWhite]

DianMayfield - if I use a font from the program is it already set at a higher dpi (for a smoother cut)? Where would I double check that?

[DickB]

DianMayfield - if I use a font from the program is it already set at a higher dpi (for a smoother cut)? Where would I double check that?Fonts in Designer are vectors; there is no correlation to dpi. Vectors should give better results.

Take a look at this: http://www.clashgraphics.com/printing-tips/difference-between-vector-jpeg-and-bitmap-graphics/

[SteveNelson46]

The only way that I know of to cut out individual letters in the Designer is to either import a graphic of the letters or place text using the Designer and then outline it as a pattern. Both methods have pros and cons.

As with any other graphic import one must start out with a high resolution model. Taking a low resolution graphic and increasing the DPI in a third party draw or paint program only magnifies the problem. To achieve the best results, the graphic or pic must be high resolution natively. Almost all graphics on the internet will be low resolution unless specifically uploaded differently. Of course, one can use the third party program or the Pattern Editor to clean it up but that usually takes a lot of time.

Placing text using the Designer and then outlining it as a pattern can work okay but the outline isn't a true vector and, other than increasing or decreasing the size, cannot be altered. Sometimes the outlining process produces a discontinuous shape so a cutpath can't be applied. Since it can't be altered, the only other alternative is to trace over the outlined parts with the line tools creating a closed shape.

Some of the work arounds can include assigning a bit to full depth of the board or using a "pierced project". There are pros and cons to these methods also but I'll leave that topic to another discussion.

[CheriWhite]

Thanks Steve for the insight. I'll keep at it!

[CheriWhite]

Great article! Thanks! I do work in AI as well. Question though. Designer can read jpg., gif., bmp., mng (?)., and xpm (?) files. I usually need to tweak a font if parts of it are too thin to cut. When I save it - it needs to not only be a format that Designer can read but that will come out smoothly. Which of these formats do you believe will cut the smoothest?

[DickB]

Great article! Thanks! I do work in AI as well. Question though. Designer can read jpg., gif., bmp., mng (?)., and xpm (?) files. I usually need to tweak a font if parts of it are too thin to cut. When I save it - it needs to not only be a format that Designer can read but that will come out smoothly. Which of these formats do you believe will cut the smoothest?
As you are using Inkscape, the best would probably be to convert your drawings into vectors in Inkscape, then use the DXF Importer, but of course that is an extra-cost add-on.

I haven't done fonts or lettering, but I did create these oak leaf and acorn designs using Inkscape and imported them with DXF Importer. You can see the smoothness of the vectors. Also, you can scale vectors larger and retain the same smoothness, something that you cannot do with bitmap images.

85838

[CheriWhite]

Wow that was a lot of work! Nice job! Part of my learning curve will be to understand what I'm seeing on my screen. It looks smooth. I also had a cut where on the screen it was all black....like it was all going to cut...but 40 minutes later and the only thing that cut were the centers of all the letters...no outside cutting was done. Is there a way to see what will cut and what won't. I read an article about being able to hide part of your design and that part won't cut but I'm pretty sure I didn't do that! LOL
Mental note: Go practice saving fonts as vectors and importing them. And invest in DXF Importer.

[DickB]

It's not a lot of work. This is the image that I started with in Inkscape. Like you, I widened some of the narrow branches in the paint program. It takes just a few Inkscape clicks to turn this bitmap image into vectors ready to import into designer.

85841

[CheriWhite]

HI!

Sorry I missed your comment. I have since upgraded to DXF Importer....the answer to all my "smoothness" issues! :D

Thanks!!