Replace Board Sensor Wire

[Dolan]

Hello.

I got the "Clear Board Sensor" message. I removed the board sensor and took <80 psi air to it. When I reinstalled it I had two problems.

1 - the black plastic rings for the screws broke
2 - Apparently I don't know how to push wires back in without cutting one
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Now I have a new set of problems
3 - I have a broken board sensor mounting bracket. I saw pictures that people built a replacement with a thin metal plate. I plan to do that.

4 - I ordered a new wire set. I have NO idea how to get the old wire set off and the machine prepped for the new wires.

5 - The screws are stuck and stripped
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First question - how do I remove these screws???

Thanks.

[Digitalwoodshop]

The broken wire was likely pinched along side the wire track and no way to get it without snapping it... See the pictures I posted the other day. I am in a rush at the moment.

You need to DRILL out the screw heads. So order 4 replacement bearings and screws. I would order double the screws, 8 as you can easily snap them installing the bearings and getting the bearing rotated into position. You can remove the drilled out screws but I would have bearings on hand.

Do you have a thin Bearing wrench? Ask LHR

I would order a new board sensor too. Keep the other one for a spare.

I would order 2 FFC Cables now to save on shipping later.

I would order 2 or 4 Cut Motor (Bearings) EDIT: I meant BRUSHES... sorry) now to save on shipping later.

You must remove the Y Truck.

Good Luck,

AL

[Dolan]

Wow! Thanks a bunch.

I called and ordered everything you mentioned. When talking to the rep, I was able to get a plan of attack.

We'll see how it works out.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Wow! Thanks a bunch.

I called and ordered everything you mentioned. When talking to the rep, I was able to get a plan of attack.

We'll see how it works out.

I meant BRUSHES for the cut motor... not bearings.... sorry... just saw this...

AL

[Dolan]

I meant BRUSHES for the cut motor... not bearings.... sorry... just saw this...

AL

Thank you very much. Here is my current situation. Wired replaced and screws are VERY stuck. I used hair dryer, soldering iron set at 600 and a blow torch.

Any ideas?
Are the black bolts to able from the bearing?


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[fwharris]

They have Loctite on the threads.

[Dolan]

They have Loctite on the threads.

I know. Nothing is breaking them.


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[Digitalwoodshop]

I have played that snapped off flush game before... I have some bearings in my junk box with snapped screws. The good news is that the bearings do have a center that can be pressed out....

That is why I always recommend buying 8 screws and 4 bearings.... And I HAVE had the bearing screws come loose when I did NOT put locktite on them... So that is asking for trouble if you don't.... That is the advantage of drilling the screw head as it leaves a stub you can remove easier than snapped flush.

I think this is the bearing. Not 100% sure. http://www.vxb.com/LFR50-8NPP-8mm-ID-x-6mm-U-Groove-Track-Roller-p/kit8369.htm

Good Luck,

AL

[Mugsowner]

I use a small butane torch to break the Loctite down. Pencil type work very well and HF sells them a cheap price.

[Dolan]

Al.

When CW sends the new bearing, will it have that nut pressed into it? I'm guessing yes.

Thanks
Dolan

[Dolan]

Please explain exactly what you did.

Did you drill the screw head off?
Did you put the flame on the screw or thru the nut?
How long did you leave the flame on before it broke free?
How long will the Loctite stay liquid before it goes back to locking again?

Any advice is appreciated. The machine is down and it's frustrating.

Dolan

[Digitalwoodshop]

For me, I drilled the screw head then set the old bearings aside for another day as I had bought new bearings and screws. I am luck as I do this as a business so all parts are a Tax Deduction...

AL

[Mugsowner]

Loctite breaks down at 650 deg. With a pencil torch you can heat thru the bearing shaft or if careful the nut itself. The loctite should not be able to reset after heating to 650 deg., but still makes it rough turning nuts as it is still gummed up in treads. It should only take a minute or two to heat the bearing enough to release the loctite. I am thinking they are using loctite 262 (red)permanent type locker. I prefer loctite 242 (blue)service removable type locker. With any tread locker make sure all parts are clean and free of any oils.