Traction Belt torn

[ken1004]

I recently purchased my compucarve and on the third cutting the traction belt folded and tore. I have ordered 2 new sets due in next week but no instructions on how to replace these. Is this complicated and does anybody know if instructions on changing them come with the new belts?

[rjp736]

I think I've seen a post on here regarding that. If you can't find it, call carvewright. They will walk you through it. They're really good with helping out.

[Kenm810]

http://www.carvewright.com/downloads/troubleshooting/sandpaper%20belt%20change.pdf

Try this it might help

[Digitalwoodshop]

Here is the Sand Paper belt replacement procedure. I am sure it is posted somewhere but, lets make life easy.... This time.

Life is too short to be told to "GO Search for it"..... :)

Getting the belts could be the problem, I have 2 sets on back order as I just wanted to have them just in case.

You will find a post where someone found a belt maker making them in high quality for a slightly higher price with quick shippment.

Watch for tapered wood, being thicker in heigth, like a wedge it will jam inside the unit and being a dumb computer, it keeps telling the board to move and the little brass roller that tells the computer that it is or is not moving just tells the computer.... "More Power Scotty!!!!" (Star Trek) And so more power is given until the belt breaks.

All suspect wood should go through a thickness planer or at least be measured. A Cupped board will do the same thing. Rustic Barn Wood Signs will be a problem.

Also clean both rollers of built up chips sticking to them, it acts like a bump in the road putting more pressure on the board and can cause a broken belt.

Good Luck,

AL

[Digitalwoodshop]

I am slowing down.... Missed it by 12 minutes.....

AL

[ken1004]

Well that's about what i figured. I ordered the machine and the told me one week and after 3 weeks i canceled and a new one off ebay for the same price. Sure wished i had the number of the company that makes the ones of better quality. I ordered 2 sets and said they will be here next week so.......we'll just wait and wait and see

[Digitalwoodshop]

From Skyhawk, Anyone keep tearing traction belts??? Post 21

"I'm waiting for belts too...although I did find a temporary replacement at http://customsandingbelts.com. I will replace these with the CW belts as soon as they come in.

Turnaround for special orders was 2 days, plus shipping. I custom ordered these, and had them in a week, not bad considering they came across the country.

Here's what I ordered...
15-13AO120X Aluminum Oxide Open Coat W-15" x L-13" Grit-120 Dry"

Good Luck,

AL

[Ted Grinnell]

I ordered a set of belts from them and found that they were very stiff compared to the original ones.
The first belt tore within 1 hour of use. I got with them and found that the belts on the machine were "J" and not "X" thickness, or whatever they call it.
They are sending me a nother set of J belts this time.
Will let you know how they work when I get them.

[FdxGuy]

Al continues to be a source of information for us who are search challanged.
Thanks Al for being a friendly source of great assistance. You might not ever replace The Bard, but you will have our thanks!

Being a Google nut, I have found the search tools that I have here to be far from ideal. So when someone like Al steps up and helps, it furthers the warm, friendly nature this forum has created. Heck, we are all blazing a new trail, we need each other.

Cheers!



Here is the Sand Paper belt replacement procedure. I am sure it is posted somewhere but, lets make life easy.... This time.

Life is too short to be told to "GO Search for it"..... :)

Getting the belts could be the problem, I have 2 sets on back order as I just wanted to have them just in case.

You will find a post where someone found a belt maker making them in high quality for a slightly higher price with quick shippment.

Watch for tapered wood, being thicker in heigth, like a wedge it will jam inside the unit and being a dumb computer, it keeps telling the board to move and the little brass roller that tells the computer that it is or is not moving just tells the computer.... "More Power Scotty!!!!" (Star Trek) And so more power is given until the belt breaks.

All suspect wood should go through a thickness planer or at least be measured. A Cupped board will do the same thing. Rustic Barn Wood Signs will be a problem.

Also clean both rollers of built up chips sticking to them, it acts like a bump in the road putting more pressure on the board and can cause a broken belt.

Good Luck,

AL

[Charles M]

Al continues to be a source of information for us who are search challanged.
Thanks Al for being a friendly source of great assistance. You might not ever replace The Bard, but you will have our thanks!

Being a Google nut, I have found the search tools that I have here to be far from ideal. So when someone like Al steps up and helps, it furthers the warm, friendly nature this forum has created. Heck, we are all blazing a new trail, we need each other.

Cheers!

I second that!! My thanks and respect to everyone who doesn't take the "Do a search" attitude.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Welcome Back FdxGuy. And Charles, thank you for the help with my project too. I am more the electronic guy and having someone help me is appreciated. I have 2 web sights and have just managed to add contact info to my index place holder page. Want to learn it myself. Time sharing between all my projects... It is nice to finally have money coming in....

Gearing up for the SWAP Meet Season....

Thanks,

AL

[Jeff_Birt]

Well that's about what i figured. I ordered the machine and the told me one week and after 3 weeks i canceled and a new one off ebay for the same price. Sure wished i had the number of the company that makes the ones of better quality. I ordered 2 sets and said they will be here next week so.......we'll just wait and wait and see


Ken, as I understand it the belts are designed to be a sacraficaial part. It's much better to tear a $5 belt than a $100 drive motor. If you are tearing belts it would be a good idea to check the down pressure on your unit, as I recall it should be around 80#. If it is too high it can tear the belts. You may want to do a quick search (in the tool bar towards teh top of the page) on the pressure issue as I do not remember the particulars on the pressure range it should be in or the adjustment proceedure. Also, your board can also tear a belt if it pretty rough or cupped/twisted.

[Ted Grinnell]

After tearing a new belt up on a perfectly square board, I started looking at everything.

I found that the top rollers were a 1/4" difference from left (control) side and the right.

After realligning them no more belt tracking problems.

[Jeff_Birt]

Ted, they were 1/4" diffrent in what direction; I would assume one end was higher/lower than the other. How did you adjust them?

[ken1004]

I have just talked with the people at this web site http://customsandingbelts.com/ about belts for the compucave and this is what they have told me. They have ordered the material to make the "j" thickness belts in 120 grit for the compucarve and should have it in about 2 weeks. In the mean while, they do have the "j" material in the size needed but in the 100 grit. Now here is the question? :confused: Does anybody think that it will make a big difference between 100 grit and the 120 on the standard belt. Personally I don't think that this should make a big difference. So I'll be the test person for this since carvewright can't give me a specific date as to when they will have the belts I ordered almost 2 weeks ago. They are shipping the belts from the above mentioned website TODAY!:D and should have them by Friday. I will give you an update on how well it worked or how much it will be for replacement parts to repair my compucarve:-( . Prayers Please! Lot of money to experiment!

[Norman]

Thank you so much. I will be on here asking questions forever probably!!! Being a toolmaker by trade is one thing but playing with my own expensive tools is another I don't want to mess up.
Thanks again
Norman the toolmaker

[Norman]

Thank you too!!! It only took me an hur to find this stuff as computers and me don't get along that well. I can read e-mails and look at stuff and that is about it.
Thanks again Norman the toolmaker

[Norman]

Thanks Al this is what I needed too!!! I will get used to this forum stuff soon I hope!!!
Maybe I will be able to get back to work soon now!! Have an oerder for a big sign in a week to 10 days!! I had everything going great until the paper broke on me!! Love All the Hints for taking care on my new toy!!!
Norman

[ken1004]

I received my belts today from http://customsandingbelts.com with the 100 grit instead of the 120 grit. I installed them and back to carving as i sit here. Very good quality belts and looks as though they will stand up well. Abut 5.00 cheaper for 4 than carvewright and took only 4 days to get them. Orderded belts from carvewright almost 3 weeks ago. Will give an update as to how they work as the projects go on. Would like to say thanks to the people on here that directed me in the right direction to get me back to carving!

[Bill]

ken1004 said : Abut 5.00 cheaper for 4 than carvewright and took only 4 days to get them.

Yes and work very well and come ups not snail mail.

[bladesmith]

Just called to get replacement belts (in case CW has supply problems).
Very friendly folks, Very excited to have our business (CW owners).

They are still waiting for 120 grit in J weight, but still have 100 grit.

Cheers,
Bladesmith

[advadv]

I just ordered a few extra belts from the folks mentioned here, and I must agree... very nice, helpful, and appreciate our business.

I ordered the replacements because the front belt has a good size wrinkle in it, and I don't dare use as is. Has anyone else experienced this, and can you simple reset the belt, or should I just replace it to be safe?

Joe

[rjustice]

Joe,

I ran into the wrinkle thing as well... i had a carving that had to get done so i went ahead and used it as it was. What i found was that the humidity in my garage was pretty high, and after using it the next day after the humidity dropped back down it settled back in. That was a couple weeks ago, and it seems to be fine now. I need to order some backup belts myself, but so far it is ok...

Ron

[advadv]

Thanks Ron. I haven't checked it since the weekend, and the new belts arrived today, so I'll take a look tonight.

Joe

[sk8nmike]

Thanks Ron. I haven't checked it since the weekend, and the new belts arrived today, so I'll take a look tonight.

Joe

Called LHR no belts instock, I order mine 2 weeks ago and I'm down to a 4 inch wide belt on the rear. Called A&H abrasives ( great people), they have the belts instock 120 grit and will ship tomorrow, with luck I'll have them before I'm down to 3 inches.

BTW. If your looking for a probe, LHR has them, they are matching up the software to the probe (don't know why, it's down loadable) and they will ship soon......

[bladesmith]

For Reference,
I am on the Pacific coast, and CustomSandingBelts shipped my order next day, (Friday) by mail and I had them on Tuesday afternoon. Perfect fit, and
Machine is back up and working. (Just in time for the Probe !!!!)

Cheers,

Bladesmith

[Ropdoc]

Ok, I put in a new belt (because the old one tore). After being careful and following the instructions fully. I ran a test peice and the darn belt tore AGAIN! What is going on?? Thats $10 down the drain. I wanted to play with the carver this weekend.

Dave

[pkunk]

I can't guess what is wrong but if you need some belts contact Tim.http://allcw.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=232

[Jeff_Birt]

Most folks that have been tearing traction belts have tracked it down to:

A: The wood they were using was warped, cupped, etc allowing it to stick between the squaring placte and guide plate

B: The guide plate was jammed up to the wood too tight allowing it to bind

C: The clucth on the machine 'head' (top half that you crank down on the wood), is allowing too much down pressure, should be around #85, measure with a bathroom scale

D: The machine 'head' is not level, to check, crank to towars the top of the machine, there are flat spots on the top of the vertical guide posts. Crank it up near the flat spots and measure from the head to bottom of the flat spots.

[Kenm810]

Thanks Jeff,
D: The machine 'head' is not level. I didn’t think of that, the last couple of carvings I did this week looked odd, on the near side of the project the bit is just a hair above the wood surface as the project calls for, but as bit was moving in the Y axis to far side the bit I thought was lowering and appeared to progressively cutting deeper. Only a total of about 1/16 of an inch, but consistently all along the X axis of the project and added a half hour of clean up sanding to the job, Almost all my carvings are at least .125 to .500 deep. So if the machine has been doing this all along, I hadn’t noticed till now. And would have had to try and figure out how to level the cut, I'll give it a try.Thanks Again Jeff – And Thanks for this sanity saving Forum --- I seem to learn something new about this contraption every day

[cycollins]

I just tore a traction belt today. I'm pretty sure it was due to the securing bar on the right running into a snag on the wood. However, I would like to check the alignment on the machine head, since I have on occasion over extended it and had to use an allen wrench to lower it. How do you adjust the head, assuming that it is out of alignment?

cycollins

[Jeff_Birt]

Do a search of the forum for a more detailed alignment proceedure. The jist of it is: You lay the machine on its side, take off the bottom cover, take loose on side of the drive shaft connecting the two sides and raise/lower the free side as needed. Put it back together.

[Ropdoc]

Ok, I will check the head pressure and see if that is over 85 lbs.

Thank you
Dave

[ken1004]

I had purchased the belts from the people at this website http://customsandingbelts.com/ and had them in 3 days. they were looking at getting the 120 grit but only had 100. I have since put these belt on and have ran several projucts and they work great. Also would like to mention that they are about half the price of the belts from CW :D

[cycollins]

...and I noticed a few things. The original caulking on the gear cover was obviously not doing its job because my gears were covered in dust. I'd like to recaulk the gear cover, but I don't know what the original caulk was (it is black in color, but may have been clear silicone at some point in its life)? There are two kinds of grease used on the gears themselves. If I wipe them clean of dust, I'd like to relubricate them. One type of grease is dark blackish brown with the consistency of soft butter. The other is a clear yellow-green gel. Any thoughts on what these might be? Finally (and this is the scariest one), when I used a large vice to compress the roller, it didn't compress evenly. Only one piston wanted to compress at a time. I think the springs popped both pistons out beyond one of the ridges they are supposed to pass through. When I try to compress the roller assembly, one of the pistons audibly "pops" through the hole in the ridge, but the other is now at an angle that prevents it from doing so. I may have to use an insert that distributes the pressure from the vise evenly along length of the roller (probably a good idea anyway). Another thing that might work is to manually pre-compress the roller until both pistons are through all the holes in the ridges they need to pass through, before putting it in the vice (a tricky maneuver). Another approach might be to skip the vice and use a pair of good-sized c-clamps or pipe vices, one positioned over each of the pistons. I guess this is just to warn those who may go down this route that the tutorial is trustworthy, but that there are pitfalls to watch out for.

cycollins

[cycollins]

I talked to some support folks at CW and they reiterated the basic technique set out in the .pdf, but they had a few extra comments. I thought I'd pass them on to the community. They said that if you wanted to remove the grime from the gears and relubricate before replacing the gear cover, remove all the factory lubes and use white lithium grease. They said that any kind of caulking would probably do fine to replace the factory stuff.

I tried the vice again for compressing the roller assembly and found it very hard to get both pistons in their respective holes at the same time. Meanwhile the pressure from the vice ended up putting a warp in the free-wheeling roller (I bent it back by application of reverse pressure, but it was tricky). In the end, I got a pair of Craftsman bar clamps (the ones with the trigger-pump handles). They have soft, notched pads in the jaws which hold the rollers without slippage, which the hard, flat jaws of the vice to not. They have plenty of compression strength (> 200 lbs) to compress the springs and can be placed nearly directly over each piston, so there is no danger of warping or bending the free roller. I highly recommend this technique over the use of the vice. Just FYI.

DCC

[Ropdoc]

When I turned my machine on for the first time I followed the instructions to the letter. Yes, I read the instructions. It told me to crank the head down to the wood and turn the crank 5 times and then lock. But I think that is just to much pressure for the belts. I let the handle click only once and then I lock it down. How about you guys? Do you feel that 5 cranks or clicks is to much pressure?

Dave

[Jeff_Birt]

You would click it 100 times and not get anymore down pressure. The clicking sound is caused by the clutch releasing. The reason for cranking it 5 times after the first click is to make sure it is actually down on the board and not just sticking on a bit of sawdust on the guide rails.

[Bill]

It's my understanding to crank it down until it ratchets and then 5 more turns and worked fine for me.

[pkunk]

In reality, all you need do is crank it until the LCD says to move on. Sometimes only a click or 2.