2 color edge lit acrylic sign -- college version

[gwhiz]

On a recent post of the first one of these I made Perry asked for directions & or photos. I promised to make another soon and document it a bit since I'd not taken a single construction photo last time. Here is the result.

The parts:

2 LED strips of different colors and one 12 volt power supply.

Two panes of cast acrylic for the sign. Mine were 6x12" and 3/16" thick. 1/4" would likely work better because it would be easier to get each pane over its own LED strip, but 3/16 works.

One pane of cast acrylic for the base plate accent. 4.5"x 13 in my case.

1 board 4.5x30x3/4. Since I was painting these I would use poplar--but I had a piece of Cypress, so I used that.

I carved pockets in the base pieces for the LED strips and the wiring.
- One of the LED's sits in the bottom half of the base below the acrylic accent plate (this one lights up it's pane AND the accent strip). This bottom strip connects to the power supply, so there's a pocket for that. The slot for the LED is off center so it'll sit under one of the panes. Since the foreground graphic is white and I also wanted the base accent to be white this slot is offset towards the front of the base.
- The top half of the base gets a pocket for it's LED--off set to the rear, room for wiring, and a slot cutout to hold the panes in place.

The design gets separated into two parts by color. I designed it all on one MPC and then selected the elements that I wanted green and cut and pasted it on a new board. The designs get flipped horizontally as you're carving the back of the acrylic and then viewing from the front (uncarved) side. Carving depths aren't critical for this flat of a piece, and shallower is better. That's because the uncarved acrylic carries the light through to the top--take away too much acrylic and the top of your sign will be dark. The green circle, for example is carved at a depth of .08, but I applied a surface so that it's only .028 at the bottom. (No, I can't tell if that made a difference!)

Sparty is carved at a constant depth of .125. Deeper than it needed to be, but I wasn't thinking! After carving I sand the edges up to 1,000 grit to smooth them out.

Sand, stain, paint, rout, or otherwise finish your base pieces. (I screw the two base pieces and the base accent piece together and sand it as one piece so it's all flush. Remove the acrylic before painting or staining!)

Wire the two LED strips together (yep, there is a bit of soldering involved--you can buy connectors, but I thought they'd be too bulky). Drill a hole in one end of the base accent plate. The white LED (in my case) is connected to power and sits in the groove in the bottom half of the base plate. The green LED strip and wire are run through the hole in the accent plate and adhered to the top side of the acrylic plate.

Four screws up from the bottom hold it all together. The panes are pressed into the slot (which has been sanded to provide a friction fit) and rest above their corresponding LED strip. Plug it in and enjoy!

[mtylerfl]

Excellent. Thank you!

[want2b]

Have read it several times and am still trying to wrap my head around it. Think I've got it but will read again several more times before I try something like what you've done. Very innovative, along with some nice design. They say we're only limited by our imagination and I think you've proven that.
Thx, Rick H

[SharonB]

What a beautiful project. I printed out the description of what you did and will add it to my "projects I want to accomplish someday" list. Your project puts the old brain in gear as to what can be accomplished with just a little thought.... and the help of a wonderful machine.

[Mugsowner]

I like the idea, did not see two pieces of acrylic, nice job matching them up. You may also want to try flame finishing the edges of acrylic. Mapp gas is the one to use as propane is not hot enough. Saves sanding time and can get a clear finish. I play around with led strip lighting often, and yes the connectors are bulky, soldering is the way to go and it is very easy. Cut the strip, tin the contacts, apply wire, reheat tinned contact, done. I use a small tipped iron I picked up at H D for about 20 bucks with led lights to brighten work area. I am going to have to give this a try, image the football helmets that could be done this way.

[myshop1044]

George, that is a great idea, there some great possibles for college sports logos, thanks for the in-depth info.

[shortround72]

Great job! Very detailed description and photos. I will definitely have to try this one...of course it will be an SEC team. [emoji16]


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[myshop1044]

and which SEC team?

[RogerB]

Very nice .Thanks for sharing all the info on here.

[gwhiz]

Thanks gang. I'm working on an SEC one now-I'll post it tomorrow after the new-hopefully brighter-red LEDs come in. Red LEDs, BTW, are dimmer than other colors. I ordered some double density reds to pair with white LEDs.

[gwhiz]

And the red LED's came in!

84990

[want2b]

Really kicks! Obviously the double red you wanted fills the bill. Looks great and I'm sure will make the recipient very happy. Am still in awe the way you have designed these projects. Thanks again for sharing not only the pictures but the method of creation.
Rick H.

[myshop1044]

George, that is fantastic, color combinations is great

[jimbabcock]

Guys,

I have had my CarveWright for about 5 years now. I tend to be more of a reader and doer than a poster. There is just so much wisdom for me to absorb. I am still just a Nube.

I have read EVERY post on the forum on lithos and a lot more. So I get it, even if I am yet to create my first one.

I seem to read and study a lot and then create an ambitious project.

For lithos, I have an idea I want to run by ya'all.

I love the two layer example by ghwiz.

So here is where I am looking for opinions. Is there any reason this technic should not work with three layers?

Here is my idea that needs three colors:

- the outline of the Continental United States with the words "God Bless the USA" in the middle.
- the three colors are obviously red, white and blue.
- haven't designed it yet, but Old Glory would fit in here some way.
- outside the states would be stars like from a fireworks display with mixed colors.

What do you think of this project? Suggestions? Am I crazy?

I have these concerns. To make this credible the lithos may be required to be too close physically together, will they then bleed over? Even if one could get this to theoretically work, the width of the LED strips would limit usefulness.

If all of the bugs get worked out for three colors and you could get red, green and blue strips, then with some Photoshop and other tech magic you may be able to create "color" lithos.

I do not expect the last part to work, but thought I would throw it out to guys who actually know something about this.

Thanks for your advice in advance,
Jim

[fwharris]

Jim,

I should work with the right design set up. It might be more of a shadow box design with a slight separation between each layer to help prevent the colored lights from bleeding into the next layer.

[myshop1044]

Thanks very much, great info, this looks like an item I could work up for up coming shows.

[gwhiz]

So here is where I am looking for opinions. Is there any reason this technic should not work with three layers?

The biggest limit, is the width of the pane. To get two colors with 1/4" cast acrylic I actually have to overlap the LED strips a bit. It's on my to-do list to do a three color using thicker acrylic, I just haven't gotten to it yet. There should be no concern with bleedover of the lights as they travel within their own pane. If you do it, show us, and I'll do the same!

[Mugsowner]

I would have to agree and see this very possible.