Shadowbox Coin Base

[flyingemt]

All, I need a second or third set of eyes to look over this .mpc before I put into production.

The two larger slots are dado slots for two vertical uprights to support a chevron shaped shadowbox.

The 14 slots I have programmed at 0.275 as most military coins vary in width.

I am assuming I will have to do this with the regular carve bit to accomplish.

Unless there is a bit setting I am forgetting. I just got back from overseas and having just a little gas in the brain.

Any suggestions welcomed, and thanks!

Mike84773

[SteveNelson46]

I replaced all of the carve regions with pockets cuts. I think this will cut faster and, since it uses only the 1/8" cutting bit, the side walls will be vertical instead of sloped. Note the .063" inset of the perimeters to compensate for the radius of the bit.

[flyingemt]

Ok all, help my memory here. Whats causing these slots to shift to the left?

Steve, thanks for the assist sir!! :-)

Mike

84776

[fwharris]

Ok all, help my memory here. Whats causing these slots to shift to the left?

Steve, thanks for the assist sir!! :-)

Mike

84776

In Designer or during the carve?

[flyingemt]

84777During the carve. First two slots come out perfect, then it shifts.

[SteveNelson46]

84777During the carve. First two slots come out perfect, then it shifts.

It looks like you are having an X-axis tracking problem. Check your head pressure. Did you use masking tape along the edge of the board? The slots look really close to the end of the board. Did you use the 7" rule?

[flyingemt]

Steve, yes, I always use two layers along the tracking edge. Something else for consideration, this piece is 2" thick oak, 8 x 38" so there is some weight to it.

[SteveNelson46]

I carve 2" thick Oak and hard Maple all the time. Usually without any problems. Did you allow for the extra 3.5" on each end so the board will stay under the rollers? If not, then you will need to use a sled.

[flyingemt]

I can tape to the ends, but a sled would be too short wouldnt it?

[SteveNelson46]

A sled will make up the difference in length so your board can be as short as possible and create less waste. If you are not allowing the project to stay under the rollers, with or without a sled, one end will "pop-up" slightly and loose contact with the tracking rollers. Especially if your in-feed and out-feed tables are not level with the traction belts.

EDIT: This website is really unstable. I have posted replies several times and they did not post correctly. Sleds are a real PITA but that is the way the machine is designed.

[Digitalwoodshop]

For FrugAL use of wood.... If I were doing it with a pre cut block of OAK, I would tape a block of the same wood on the ends and use Place on END. Then set up the Designer art to ignore the 4 inch taped on blocks. THIS keeps the wood under the rollers ALL THE TIME preventing the tracking error you are getting. This is a basic "7 inch rule of wood" issue like posted ABOVE.

[DianMayfield]

Also, as heavy as that is, I would use out feed roller support. It could certainly tip some, losing good contract with the roller.