Tabs

[tonydrew]

I'm trying to cut out a shape for a table shelf. I need 2 tenons to come through the supports and have a hole in each for the wedge to snug it all up. Mission style. When I try to carve it the default shows I need to "auto jig." When it carved it took a width of 7" down to about 2". I'm guessing it has an issue with the wide cut across the board, but changing the design to Munchkin size doesn't help.
Under tools I cannot select cut path. It is gray and won't highlight so I can put in tabs, which I thought might help.
It's a really basic layout, but I'm just not getting it. 83127 I can finish the side cuts with a hand saw and same with wedge holes. I can also forget the wedge holes and use the mortise machine, but would rather have the precision of this machine.
If I get this to work I'll punch mortises in the supports to match up. Again, the mortise machine can do it, but it will look much better with this--if I can make it happen.
Thanks

[fwharris]

You can turn off "auto jog" through the user options, 0 on the keyboard.

The cut path tool will only work with a closed vector path like a circle, square so on. Yours is just a single line vector so the cut path tool will not activate.

[tonydrew]

Thank you. I saw where I could turn it off, but the warnings make it sound as if the machine will explode if you do.
The cut path was originally set to go edge-to-edge, but I changed it trying to get around the auto jog.

[fwharris]

Okay, that was the warning you got during the upload to the card process. If you were doing the original in a sled or jig then it would not be an issue. If done with just the board then it would be an issue. Using a wider board so that you and edges left around your path would work also.

[bergerud]

You guys are confusing me. Auto jog and auto jig are different things!

If you try and cut too close to the brass roller edge, the machine will kick into auto jig mode where it will not make the cut all the way through. Even if the board is up on a sled (and the width of the board is still measured the same), it will not make the cut. The sled needs to be wider for the machine to ignore the auto jig.

[tonydrew]

It worked great--the 2nd time. On the 1st try it started in with the mini pattern again. Pulled out that board and stuck in a new one. This time I told it not to stay under the rollers and it worked great.
Now. If I go ahead and have it cut to the edge of the board will it wreck things once the pieces come apart? I used a pull saw and it was OK, but I really want the nice, finished edge of the machine.
Lastly, this really seems to put a lot of stress on the machine. Is more than I should be doing with it? I need 4 of these for each table plus the mortises in the supports.
Thank you again for the input and getting me on the right path. Someday I will actually understand this machine

[bergerud]

Post exactly what you want and we can "fix" it up.

[tonydrew]

83130 This is pretty much want I need for each end of the shelf. I can easily chisel out the holes for the wedges. I tweaked the the dimensions slightly from what I posted earlier and think I'm close. This is so basic for you folks, but it is a new challenge for me.
It has been a good learning experience at the very least. Once I found the dimension boxes and angles things were easier.

[fwharris]

You guys are confusing me. Auto jog and auto jig are different things!

If you try and cut too close to the brass roller edge, the machine will kick into auto jig mode where it will not make the cut all the way through. Even if the board is up on a sled (and the width of the board is still measured the same), it will not make the cut. The sled needs to be wider for the machine to ignore the auto jig.

You are correct. I miss read his original post.

[bergerud]

I mean what you actually want. Just use Designer like a drafting program and draw the shelf. Is it like this?

[tonydrew]

As a follow up, I got it to work and made a mortise and tenon shelf with support that will work nicely on the table. I left the outside tabs in place and just cut them out on the table saw with the board on its side. The holes for the pegs were cut to 5/8" of the 3/4" and then finished with an oscillating saw the rest of the way. I didn't want the centers dropping into the machine. A challenge is allowing for the width of the cutting bit and getting a snug fit. Once I got my brain around that it cuts a very nice fit. Going to make a sample table in pine and then do them for real.
Thank you all for the input and patience.