First time I have ever seen this, skipped a space in the project.

[myshop1044]

I ave never seen this one, the machine was sitting at the homing position when I walked into the shop,
no error message, stated project was completed.
I removed it and this is what I found.
I skipped a space then contuined right at the correct place in the project.
Any suggestion for testing to be done.

[myshop1044]

I checked the back of the board and found no tape problem, the bottom of the board is flat and straight, no dips in the wood???
just checked the gear box for looseness by hand , or broken gears, ok there. Did an X test with gear cover off, ran smooth,
data is A=105.86 , M = 137.40. No sure what to check next, project looks great, same old project.

[fwharris]

Bad hick up! No real clue other than some type of tracking issue.

[bergerud]

If part of the pattern just disappeared, I would go with data loss on the memory card.

[SteveNelson46]

It could have been caused by a static electricity hit while carving. Try reformatting and re-flashing the data card. It really sucks though. The grain pattern in that board really accentuated the carving.

[myshop1044]

I am going to try a test, I cleared my card that had the project failure and try a smaller roux spoon project to see how it comes out, if it works out, I will then down load the LS project to a second card and try it on my second machine. I am going to use the same board and see if it will carve over the existing project. 3 hrs and 30 min wasted plus 24" of select cypress.

[bergerud]

Ok, I just noticed in picture two that it looks like the pattern was not skipped over just shifted. Now I would go with a brass roller problem. The brass roller, for some reason, stopped rolling. The x drive crept forward the 1/2" until the brass roller started rolling again. Something interfered with the brass roller. A lump in the rubber belt or maybe a wood chip between the belt and the roller. Examine the brass roller area for rouge chips of wood!

[myshop1044]

Steve you may have it the nail on the head, I was using my shop vac near the machine. It is about 80 deg and dry today.
I did not use it around the other machine. I am still going to try the other machine tomorrow. I have never seen static do that to a project.
Thanks for the suggestions.

[bergerud]

I skipped a space then contuined right at the correct place in the project.

By this I thought you meant that part of the pattern was not carved. After looking more closely at the pictures, I think that the whole pattern was carved. There was simply a tracking problem where the board moved without carving. This is a classic problem which occurs when the brass tracking roller fails to confirm to the controller that the board has moved. The x drive keeps advancing the board as it waits for the brass roller to "catch up".

So, I think this a tracking problem. Something messed with the brass roller.

[myshop1044]

Found the problem, it wasn't the brass roller, it was the idiot pressing the buttons, first I put the board in opposite the tape
Take a look what the roller ran into, no wonder it skipped. Just going too fast, trying to do 2 jobs at once.Live and learn

[fwharris]

That would do it for sure. Time to take that BIG BLACK MARKER and label the sled to indicate what side goes to the keyboard side of the machine.

[myshop1044]

Yes, like them guys that have TGIF on their shoes," TOES GO IN FIRST" I will hang that project on the wall just as a reminder.

[normrichards]

I use mdf with tape on both sides so I do not do that. Learned my lesson once when I did the same thing.

[CarverJerry]

I have used this jig for many years. I mostly do signs and lithos. But anything I do I use this jig as long as it fits on it, I do have another jig that is longer just like this one. The end with the arrow goes in first and that piece of wood which is about 4" never moves, I only move the other piece to hold in my project, I put the screws in on an angle which squeezes the project like it is in a vise. Since most are signs or cut out projects I very seldom have to add rails to the length for the rollers to be on. I feel this is a simple design and has been a fail safe system for me. If my project is thinner than 3/4" I shim the project to match the heigth of the ends (what I call the jaws). Oh and yes there is a piece of masking tape for the roller. This picture shows how I do add rails when needed.

[normrichards]

I have used this jig for many years. I mostly do signs and lithos. But anything I do I use this jig as long as it fits on it, I do have another jig that is longer just like this one. The end with the arrow goes in first and that piece of wood which is about 4" never moves, I only move the other piece to hold in my project, I put the screws in on an angle which squeezes the project like it is in a vise. Since most are signs or cut out projects I very seldom have to add rails to the length for the rollers to be on. I feel this is a simple design and has been a fail safe system for me. If my project is thinner than 3/4" I shim the project to match the heigth of the ends (what I call the jaws). Oh and yes there is a piece of masking tape for the roller. This picture shows how I do add rails when needed.

Pretty much exactly what I use as far as the top and bottom rails, I do not use the side ones.