New Guy...

[Dirtydan]

I'm in the process of buying this system. I've been playing with the software and was wondering if some one could tell me how to get rid of the box/frame around a imported picture...

[BoardSilly]

You would be best served by manipulating your original image and removing the background prior to importing it into Designer. This will leave just the carve itself and remove the square image background.

[Dirtydan]

You would be best served by manipulating your original image and removing the background prior to importing it into Designer. This will leave just the carve itself and remove the square image background.
Thanks for the reply. I was told that, but some of the images I want to use, I also wanted to keep a part or most of the background. I guess I could either raise or lower the image to try and null out the squareness of the image... Just trying to save a little time.

Thanks again...

[Greybeard]

If you want to retain the clouds and the contrail, use the rectangle tool to draw a region exactly the same size as the "frame/edge" from your art work.
Choose a shallow depth for the region and this will sink the picture very slightly but make a definite frame to that part of it.
You may then want to reposition the whole project.

Regards
John

[Dirtydan]

If you want to retain the clouds and the contrail, use the rectangle tool to draw a region exactly the same size as the "frame/edge" from your art work.
Choose a shallow depth for the region and this will sink the picture very slightly but make a definite frame to that part of it.
You may then want to reposition the whole project.

Regards
John
Thanks for the feed back, but I'm trying to get rid of the frame effect... Here's another example. On one, I seemed to have gotten rid of the border, but on the others, no matter what I do, the borders are still there..

[Greybeard]

You need to make the background of your individual photos either "transparent" or black.
I'm having to assume you have some familiarity with photo editing software.
The method I use follows.
Select the background and fill with black, then save as a .png file for preference.
Import the file into Designer, and by "lowering" the image during the import process, the background will disappear, giving you just the shape of the figures with no frame. Save as a pattern.
You may have to experiment with the method of selecting the original shape, as some methods may give you a line around the image in Designer.

Happy to fill out any more details if you need them.
Regards
John

[Dirtydan]

:p
I ordered my machine Monday. If Sears is correct, it should get here sometime this week.

I've been playing around with the software and noticed that when selecting a bit for carving, the program selection has 1/16", 1/8" and 1/4" Bullnose bits and a 1/8" straight bit. Here's my question, in the accessory selection onthe CarveWright website, I don't see these bits offered. They have a carving bit and a straight bit and several router bits. I assume the carving and straight bits are used for the carving correct and all the other bits would be used for board edge routing Correct??? But that's not totally true either, because of the large bullnose and "V" bits that could be used for lettering and other things.. Where can I select these other bits? Will these selections be available in the software I get with the machine?

As you can see by the examples I've posted, I'm into imported graphics and text carving and some of the projects I've been working on don't appear to render very good, at least like I would like to see them. Dose the actual product come out better or worse than what is shown on the computer?

Thanks for you help...

[3DPhotowright]

March 07. Just obtained a CompuCarve machine. I'm forcusing on reproducing photographs into 3D wood carvings. Little success so far in attempting to create an images, one of a lighthouse with a white structure but black light enclosure at the top of the structure. Also, having another problem in saving an image of a 1920s replica Mercedes sports car (.jpg at 447 to .gif for importing to Designer), I see 'blisters' or 'bubbles' or.... crevases if inverted when zooming. Is that caused by a slightly out of focus camera image?? Camera is a 4.0 meg. Resolution of images is 2304x1704. Use Adobe Elements but with little experience on photo editing therein. Did change both images to grayscale. Comments and assistance much appreciated. THANKS!

[Dirtydan]

March 07. Just obtained a CompuCarve machine. I'm forcusing on reproducing photographs into 3D wood carvings. Little success so far in attempting to create an images, one of a lighthouse with a white structure but black light enclosure at the top of the structure. Also, having another problem in saving an image of a 1920s replica Mercedes sports car (.jpg at 447 to .gif for importing to Designer), I see 'blisters' or 'bubbles' or.... crevases if inverted when zooming. Is that caused by a slightly out of focus camera image?? Camera is a 4.0 meg. Resolution of images is 2304x1704. Use Adobe Elements but with little experience on photo editing therein. Did change both images to grayscale. Comments and assistance much appreciated. THANKS!

I've noticed the same thing... It seems like the more detailed the picture, the more the I see 'blisters' and/or 'bubbles' in the pattern.

I haven't had trouble importing .jpg, .png, or .gif files into Designer... While I have Adobe Elements and Photoshop, I prefer using Ulead PhotoImpact for all my picture editing... Much easier to use, but not as powerfull as the Adobe packages. I'm thinking about trying changing the file type to 256 colors and then grayscale... That might help with the bubbles/blisters...

[Jeff_Birt]

Guys, save yourself some time and SEARCH on the subject of importing photographs into designer and why it does or does not work. I'll give you a hint it has something to do with greyscale to height relationship.

[Charles M]

I don't mind giving the quick explanation again. When you import a grayscale image Designer "sees" the height as shades of gray. So depending on whether you have inverted the image or not, the black will be the lowest and the white the heighest with the 255 shades between giving the other depths. If there are any gray or white spots on the image they will appear as blisters or divots.

[Dirtydan]

Thanks Charles...

Speaking for my self, some of use are a little thicker than others... I'm very hard to train... With that said, I've attached a couple of projects I'm working on, and am asking for your input on things I could do better.

Thanks again...

[Dirtydan]

3D, here's three (Full Color) .jpg imports onto a project I'm working on for Grandmom and me... I'm ready to get carving... Machine should be here this weekend.... I'm ready to mess-up some wood...:)

[Charles M]

Thanks Charles...

Speaking for my self, some of use are a little thicker than others... I'm very hard to train... With that said, I've attached a couple of projects I'm working on, and am asking for your input on things I could do better.

Thanks again...

I have a couple of suggestions:

The depth should be reduced on most of the samples you uploaded. Most of the text had a step where the bit had to relieve around letters. Try making the depth for those less than 0.100". Also, the image used for the POW looked much better at 0.100" depth. Simple black and white images like that work pretty well - the higher the resolution the better. Actual photos that have gradients of color do not, even when changed to grayscale. For these you could carve them in opaque plastic and display in front of a light for a cool effect. You can also carve them shallow, apply a dark stain then wipe off the stain so the dark hangs in the lower regions. This gives a somewhat photo-like carving. For actual 3D carvings you will have to either find a way to create them or purchase them from someone that knows how. ArtCam software (~$8000) is probably one of the easiest ways to get professional results. Illustration and photo software can be used if you are willing to put in the extra work. Jon Jantz has tutorials for using CorelDraw on his web site that I highly recommend.