Making a sign - Need help

[Lin]

I know Al has done this before and probably many others on this board have also. I am carving a sign using a 3/8" straight bit and using "Modern" font so it will be single stroke. What depth is the best to use and how many passes? I am carving in hard maple and one side of the board is straight but the other has some slight curving in it. That edge still has a natural edge with bark still on it that I would like to keep. Anything special I need to do or as long as I make the font small enough to fit properly in the shortest width area I will be ok? OR Do I need to use a carrier board with it? Last question concerns the finishing. The lettering will be painted black. What type of paint for outside use and do I use any type of finish before painting the lettering and if I am a bit sloppy with the paint will it come off easily with a sander or will I need to run it thru a planer? Is there a certain finish to use on the sign after the lettering has dried for outside use that is better than using indoor/outdoor spray poly. That happens to be what I have on hand.
Thanks for any and all help with this. First outdoor sign I have ever done.
Lin

[SteveNelson46]

If your actual board is not square with parallel sides and 90 degree corners you will need a carrier board or sled. If you stop to think about it, when the board is against the squaring plate and the sliding guide plate is against the other side what would happen if the board doesn't have parallel sides as it moves through the machine?

[Digitalwoodshop]

The condition of your bit is very important. Since the cutting is done with the tip of the bit.. So I would do .1 depth passes to a max of .2 if I were doing it. A dull or dirty bit and you will get tear out...

As for the finish... If you use a very thin paint like a spray, it is likely to wick up into the grain... I always used standard latex paint.

And yes, a carrier board is needed due to the live edge.

AL

[DickB]

I suggest Marsh spray ink for the lettering and Minwax Spar Polyethylene with UV inhibitors for outdoor finish. The ink does not run and readily sands off. Spray at least the first coat (available in a rattle can) to seal the ink and the last coat for a smooth finish. This is how I make my outdoor signs.

81268

[mtylerfl]

Hi Lin,

Is your Maple sign going to be under cover at all? I ask because I've not heard of Maple being suitable for outdoor use. Perhaps if it is placed in a covered area, it might help it last (plus the use of the Minwax Spar Polyethylene with UV inhibitors that Dick recommended). "Normal" outdoor signage woods would be Redwood, Cedar, Teak and the like, which have a natural resistance to decay and deterioration when exposed to the elements. I think even Pine would fare better outdoors than the Maple, but it would take an outdoor side-by-side comparison to know for sure...maybe even a couple years or so.

EDIT: I just discovered a website listing woods for outdoor use and a chart of their properties for resisting decay, etc. I thought this might be handy for a lot of us! I've bookmarked it myself for future referral. Here is the link:

http://www.grit.com/departments/choosing-wood-for-outdoor-projects.aspx

[Digitalwoodshop]

Lin, answered the PM.

+1 for the Spar Poly with UV.... It's the best.

AL