Candle Mold

[kelsky]

I am working on a candle mold where I want to create each half and put them together to pour in the wax. Picture a tall thin candle, it tapers at the end to a point. I just can't seem to get the right elements to make this happen. My first attempt here just isn't working. I am attaching the 3.1 version of my attempt. Take a look and let me know of another way to use the software to get a seamless taper from the shaft of the candle to the point. Also, I am looking to simply adapt this for various sizes, lengths and heights. Thank-you in advance for any feedback.

79794

[bergerud]

My first thought would be to use rail sweep. It, however, does not seem to produce very smooth surfaces. Some sanding will be required. What I did was make a candle with rail sweep and then make a pattern from it. Inverting the pattern then gives a pretty good mold. (If you try and make the mold directly using rail sweep, the scale z works the wrong way and the tip is too deep.)

[oscarl48]

I'm at work but I can do some examples this afternoon. It's a 30 second exercise to create negative images for candles. Learned the technique for my wife's soap making hobby.

Is there a specific dimension you are looking for? Super easy but entails using blender 3d (3d graphics program) and stl importer.

[normrichards]

I am interested in this also but I only have basic designer, could you share the ptn for this? Thank You.

[bergerud]

I am interested in this also but I only have basic designer, could you share the ptn for this? Thank You.

My pattern was only meant to be an example of what could be produced with rail sweep. It may not be that useful. (Note that if you alter the size of it in 1.187, you get the edge flooring problem of 1.187.)

[SteveNelson46]

Is this what you are looking for? The MPC was saved as version 1.187 and the pattern can be used in any version.

[kelsky]

That is it. I'd like to understand how this is done as I will be putting many variations into this. Were you able to do this in the carverwight software or an external app?

[SteveNelson46]

That is it. I'd like to understand how this is done as I will be putting many variations into this. Were you able to do this in the carverwight software or an external app?

Maybe it could have been done using the Designer only but I found it easier to create the pattern in Aspire 8. You may use the files as you wish. I am not concerned about copyright rules with anything I give away. I'm just a hobbyist and it is not a national treasure.

EDIT: Oh, BTW, glad I could help.

[bergerud]

I think it is always nice if one can construct one's mpc in Designer itself. Sometimes it is a challenge, but in the end, you have something which is more straight forward and easy to edit.

(Thank you kelsky for this problem. I am a beta tester and have known for awhile that the rail sweep was not very smooth. Thanks to your question, I just realized why.)

[oscarl48]

Okay I am stumped. I can't figure out how to make my pattern work in designer 1.xx. It looks great in designer 2.xx but looks horrible in designer 1.xx. What am I doing wrong?

You have to unselect floor feather and set feather to zero. To modify you can change height and length and then change depth appropriately.

Setting as shown are depth .25 height 100 angle 90 size 10.00 and .75. and then mirrored.

Edit: sorry mpc in designer 2.xx

[oscarl48]

having fun with some premade blender models. Not real functional as a candle maybe but can be used possibly for a plaster mold knickknack.

[bergerud]

Your pattern seems ok in 1.187 as long as you do not try and change its size. As soon as you alter it, the "auto" floor edges kicks in. It is like the floor feather in 2 and 3 except that you cannot turn it off. All you can do is bit optimization best and hope for the best!

[oscarl48]

Dan, thanks. That explains it then since I did try change the size.

[oscarl48]

One last one. I hope this one comes out because then I want one. A screw pattern candle. Please let me know if it works and I'll go buy a candle making kit. :D

[bergerud]

I think those threads are too deep. Too much surface area. The wax might not come out. Great idea though. Can you try making more shallow threads?

[SteveNelson46]

I think it is always nice if one can construct one's mpc in Designer itself. Sometimes it is a challenge, but in the end, you have something which is more straight forward and easy to edit.


If you are just looking for a challenge then limiting yourself to one tool might be the way to go. However, if you consider the quality of the finished project and looking to complete it with a time factor involved then using all of the tools that are needed to make the job easier seems more practical. Just my point of view.

[oscarl48]

Dan, great suggestion. Here is a quick bolt model for the mold. Not cylindrical but can be modified by deselecting aspect ratio and making them skinnier or longer. These are smaller form factor candles but they would look great on a cake or other special event for a metal or wood worker.

[Scooby]

Sorry if this is posted twice.
You can spray the mold with cooking spray to make them release. If the surface is smooth or has a light texture you can use plastic wrap before filling to make the release easier. I would suggest to put a positive and negative rib (don't know the technical name) so the halves do not slide and I would also route a grove on each side to accept mold sealer. Also carve a relief in the top and bottom to accept the wick. I would do it for you but the .mpc was made in a newer version than I have.

[oscarl48]

Aha! Now that Dan educated me on how use designer 1.xx, here is the bolt candle mpc in version 1.xx.

A series of alignment pins could also be useful to ensure perfect alignment. To carve the mold sealant groove I would imagine you can simply outline the pattern, flip to the outside and then carve a shallow groove to accept the mold sealant.

[oscarl48]

Steve, its actually a 3d object split down the middle and then ported into Designer as stl's. The threads match up because they are two halves of the same object.

The first deep groove bolt is a mirror image and will line up but not be a true thread.

[aokweld101]

I'm curious about the depth .75 puts it though the board, and it takes a lot of material out in one pass. any suggestions or am I wrong?

[oscarl48]

Please do not use the pattern as is. Its meant to be modified depending on how large or small you are making the candle mold. It will be small because it was designed around 3/4 stock lumber. So if the width is an 1 at the base you want .5 for the depth. If its .75 then depth should be .325...etc.

On my machine I have had zero problems carving all the way through the 3/4 in stock. That may or not may the case with different machines so please modify the pattern appropriately.

For deeper that .75 the pattern has to be redone as an multi-board stl project.

[oscarl48]

Steve, its hard to tell from the images because they are not close enough to see how they line up. I separated the patterns and then got them together so you can see how they line up a little better.

[bergerud]

Maybe I'm not seeing this right but it you flip one side over and lay it on top of the other side the threads will be twisting the opposite way.

And so they should! Imagine a glass bolt. The threads will look crossed as you look through it.

[aokweld101]

I'm thinking this would be great for the rotary jig.. drill hole to size with a forsner bit for the wax

[aokweld101]

On second thought that won't work.... stupid hit me..

[kelsky]

I think it is always nice if one can construct one's mpc in Designer itself. Sometimes it is a challenge, but in the end, you have something which is more straight forward and easy to edit.

(Thank you kelsky for this problem. I am a beta tester and have known for awhile that the rail sweep was not very smooth. Thanks to your question, I just realized why.)



Decided to go with rail sweep. I can change it around easily at this point. StevenNelson46 has the best solution, but it requires buying some additional software and the learning curve associate. Not quite worth it yet. But it produced a much better piece in the end.

[bergerud]

I found that if you stretch out the cross section curve, the result is much smoother. (You have to tweak a little to still get a circular arc back on the board.)


Edit: compare to http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?28340-Candle-Mold&p=255381#post255381

[kelsky]

Thanks all for your help on this. I've got this pretty much down for the rounded candles. Now, one more challenge I am working on. Need a square candle but need the tip rounded at the top. Probably start the rounding process .5" or so away. Using all the techniques here, I can't seem to get it going. Any help appreciated.

Thx
Kelsky

[bergerud]

Post what you have.

[oscarl48]

Are you referring to something like this?