Jogging - Can't wrap my mind around this one....

[SharonB]

I'm using two different (separate) project patterns (see attached). I have the first project placed (centered) in a 34x13 inch sled. I carved the first part of the project and now I'm trying to add the cribbage board pattern into the "blank" area. Which one of the "jog" options do I use to place the Cribbage pattern into the blank space?

1. If I use jog to center is the machine looking for the center of sled (since the machine now does not have a reference as where the original board is placed)?
2. If I jog to the center of the blank space it asked for a X-component to be added.
3. If I select jog to corner would I be using the corner of the black space? There again I think it asked for the X-component to be added.

I've used jog to center before and never had it ask for the x-component (so what information is the machine looking for?). I know this has got to be simple but can not wrap my brain around the solution. 7925379254

[DocWheeler]

Going by old foggy memory here. The corner and center it is talking about is the virtual board that you are laying atop the board in the machine.
The X/Y coordinates are that point on the board in the machine where you want either the center or corner of the virtual board containing the pattern.
And, if I remember correctly, it is the top-left corner of the virtual board rather than the normal top-right where the 0/0 origin is located when using jog to corner.

[SharonB]

Thanks Ken. Going to the left corner is something I never thought about, I went to the right corner. I sure wish there was more printed information or video on the different Jogging procedures, as I think it is a mystery to a lot of people. If the information is available I haven't been able to find it.

[bergerud]

I think the easiest thing to use is jog to center. Where you jog to will be where the center of the virtual board is placed. If you make the virtual board as small as possible with the pattern centered on it, you will be able to place it anywhere. (If the virtual board is larger than the pattern, you may not be able to get your pattern near the real board edges. You can only jog to possible center positions which keep the whole virtual board on the real board.)

I think the reason that you were asked for the x coordinate was because you pushed a wrong button. When jogging, you can either press the arrows or you can key in coordinates. Pressing a button other than an arrow button kicks it into coordinate mode. (If it asks for coordinates, you can go back to arrows by pressing STOP.)

[DocWheeler]

Sharon,

See post #9 of this thread (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?25285-Jog-to-Position-Still-a-Mystery&highlight=jog+to+center).

[bergerud]

Hey Doc. Here is a useful trick to send someone to an exact forum post. Right click on the post number and pick Copy Link Location. Then paste into your current post. In this case:

http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?25285-Jog-to-Position-Still-a-Mystery&p=225272#post225272

[SharonB]

Thank you both for the explanation(s). I will be out in the shop tomorrow so hopefully I can put your instructions to good use.

[DocWheeler]

Thanks for the tip Dan, I didn't know that.
Finding out new things is a curse, it makes me understand how much I don't know.

[Digitalwoodshop]

In my mind the jog method is like using a mirror over the shoulder to aim a gun at a target... Just too many variables....

If I were doing it I would use place on END or CORNER and set up a slightly bigger board in designer and picture the top of your designer screen as the brass roller and the right side as the head of the board. Draw a Rectangle from the right edge to use it for a on board on screen tape measure and place the art in X Y on the board. Even if you make it 2 projects, that is the way to go... This way you took out ALL THE VARIABLES that could lead to placement error.

Remember the hole project I did, putting the plastic back in a 2nd time to be cut using a peek a boo board to show the placement of the material on my carrier sled. The cutting artwork was set at X and Y off the end of the sled and never changed. I just had to put the material in the correct place on the sled and it would cut in the proper place every time..

Picture 1 shows a cut peek a boo sheet now used to align the new re cut sheet under it then tape it down. The 3rd picture shows a completed 2nd cut of the holes this time cutting the red plastic edge guide. Sure beats cutting them with a Wood RASP. The last picture shows the orientation with the brass roller being on the top and head of the board to the right... Cutting with Place on END or Corner sure is EASY....

The last picture shows the holes art when I cut the 12 x 24 sheets the first time getting tags out of the waste part.

Good Luck..

AL

[SharonB]

Well, the project is completed... thanks for all the information. I had to jog to center twice, in the same operation, for it to find the center of the blank area. Using the Jog to Position I jogged to the center of the blank area, it then asked of the X and Y coordinates, the jig moved to a new position and then, once again, asked to jog to the center of the blank area. From this second jog it carved in the correct position.
One thing for sure I'm always learning something new.

[Digitalwoodshop]

WOW... GREAT WORK.... and not a single hole out of place... Looks like I need to give a second look at this jog to position...

I too am learning something new...

AL

[DocWheeler]

Sharon,

That is a great use for that piece of wood. And your other skills are also apparent in the project as a whole.

[mikemi]

Great job Sharon, it is tough to do a project on a non-perfect dimensional board. It came out really nice.

Mike