cut motor

[aokweld101]

I havn't started my machine for two months waiting on flex cable, installed the flex cable yesterday and tried to run my project today, it did it's nomal measurements and the cut motor didn't start. I then did a cut motor test and the motor variated in speed.. did another cut motor test and the LED said the cut motor was running but it wasn't running at all where do I start to start my trouble shooting ?

[bergerud]

Brushes and wire connections.

[aokweld101]

I am a little stumped on this one, checked the wire connetors I changed the cut motor bushes a little before the flex cable burned up so I know that the brushes have way under there 250 hr. change.

[bergerud]

Give the motor a hit with the palm of your hand while running the test.

[henry1]

You could have a wire in the cut motor that would unplug

[aokweld101]

Went and checked my connectors again, they looked ok .. ran another test and it says it running when its not, I haven't took the cut motor out to physical check it. I noticed when I was changing the flex cable the 14 pin plug had a slight crease in it, it didn't look as if the wire was broke could that be my problem?

[bergerud]

I do not think the FFC ribbon would have anything to do with it. Give the motor a hit from below and see if you get a reaction. (You are sure it is not the right cover switch, right?)

[aokweld101]

Dan, I looked at everything, I even checked to make sure that both switches on the cover clicked to make sure, checked if I had resistance on the spindle to make sure it was inserted the only thing that I can do is check the cut motor itself and I'm not looking forward to that task.. I must be getting old..

[bergerud]

Some have had a poor connection at the x termination board underneath the machine. You need to check whether power is getting to the motor.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Also look at the X Termination board for any burnt components. Sometimes humidity or condensation causes problems with the x term board.

Look for a snapped off C1 Capacitor leg on the X term board.

AL

[normrichards]

Give the motor a hit with the palm of your hand while running the test.

Man I haven't seen that since my grandmother used to slap the side of the tv when it got fuzzy! LOL!

[aokweld101]

Looks as if I need to tear the machine apart, I rotated the spindle insert and lost a screw it fell in between the slot where the two belts are, I took the bottom off and blew out the sawdust. how do I test the termination board or do I just visually check it?

[bergerud]

Just do a visual check for burnt components or copper traces. You could check the cut motor resistance from there. Unplug the cut motor plug and see if it has a couple ohms across it.

[cestout]

If you have a lot of hours on it there could be a bad connection inside the motor. I had bad connector inside that was obvious when I opened the motor. I soaked the end of the wire with solder to replace the conned tor th plug it back in. Worked that way for a long time but finally had to get a rebuilt one.
Clint

[Digitalwoodshop]

Do you have Dust collection? If not the dust gets sucked into the cut motor at the cooling slits near the brushes and THROUGH the motor....... When it collects on the brush area the brushes can bind.

AL

[aokweld101]

Al, I have a 2 horse harbor freight dust collector when I bought the carvewright I was using a shop vac at first I bought a lotta parts and it wasn't getting the dust out, that is my first question for some one that buys a carvewright, it is going to rain today so it will be a good day to tear it down...more questions to follow later not unless I find the problem.. thanks gentlemen I'll keep ever one informed if I get it fixed.

[Digitalwoodshop]

A repost from the wires thread.

So we are back to the RPM problem....

Since the brushes are OK then we have a few things to check...

I would start by un plugging the machine and removing the X Termination board and inspecting it... Look for brown or burnt parts...

If that is OK then we have the cut motor wires... Some have found that the push on connector has a bad CRIMP so TUG on the wires looking for a loose wire... then re crimp....

Lastly you will need to open the cut motor... I posted a bunch of pictures yesterday. Take Pictures in case a wire comes off... BE GENTLE and look for lose wires. Last year a Over Temp Fuse was found to have a poor solder joint... something like that can happen and cause this... When you put it back together watch where the wires go so they don't hit any moving parts or pinch. Don't forget the screw inside the muffler hole.... it hides in there.

AL

[aokweld101]

I have a omhs meter, what do I set the dial meter to check for ohms and where do I put the prongs. Its been so long since I have used it! It's nice out side so it's time to work on it.... can you believe that is going to be 80 degress here by Christmas hard to get in the Christmas spirit ....thanks

[bergerud]

The motor should only be a few ohms. I think mine was 2 ohms. Check this resistance across the two wires which go directly into the motor. Spin the motor by hand as you measure to check all the windings. (Notice slight variations in resistance will result because of the brush contacts.)

[aokweld101]

Dan, what do I set the dial on the meter? Thank you.. I thought checking the ohms frist before I take the bottom off would be the best way of doing it.

[bergerud]

Set the meter to the lowest ohm setting since you are expecting only 2 or 3 ohms. 0 - 10 ohm range?

[aokweld101]

Thanks Dan, going out side to tare it apart ... again

[aokweld101]

I'm still having this same issue, I tried to take the caps off to check the brushes, but the cap is stripped and can't get it off can some one give me an idea how to attack that... the screw head is stripped not the threads..

[bergerud]

It cannot be completely striped, can it? Maybe you can grind a perfectly fitting blade to fit in what is left. A couple if light taps might also help to loosen it up.

[aokweld101]

Dan, I thought of a dremel tool with a cutting blade on it.

[bergerud]

How about drilling two small holes? Bend a welding rod into a U shape (to go into the holes) and then lever against it.

[fwharris]

I'm still having this same issue, I tried to take the caps off to check the brushes, but the cap is stripped and can't get it off can some one give me an idea how to attack that... the screw head is stripped not the threads..


Use the dremel to grind/cut a deeper slot into the cap for your screw driver.

[mtylerfl]

...and, don't use a screwdriver. Use the edge of a coin or washer instead. Less likely to "mangle" the soft plastic slots.

[chebytrk]

Appears that now my cut motor has problems. I've checked it, cleaned it, brushes are good and don't see anything burned out. I also run the cut motor test and .......... nothin'. Does this sound like maybe the x board is shot? I think that's about all that's left right? I won't cuss cause it's not a good thing to do here on the forum, but *&^%&^%#^%$#^&%&%&^)(*&)(*&( !!!!

[bergerud]

Measure the resistance of the cut motor. Should be a few ohms.