z truck plunged (totally plunged!)

[ChrisR]

The z truck on my CompuCarve plunged deep into (and through) my project, milled a menacing slot through my last remaining block of takula wood, and gave up the ghost. I was about to leave town for a few weeks, so I didn't even attempt to start repairs. I won't have access to the machine until next month.

That being said, I am hoping that the gurus in this forum can suggest the parts that I will probably need to address this condition. I would like to order them while I am on the road so that they will be on hand when I get back. I recently had to replace my traction belts and the pressure switch for my rear roller is getting flakey. I need to place an order so that I will have those on hand anyway, and I would like to place one order rather than two.

Many thanks for any suggestions.

[blhutchens]

There is no way to suggest a parts list without first doing some exploratory surgery. It could be something as simple as a loose belt on the zed truck.
It could also be just a dirty encoder on the z motor........

[henry1]

You need to describe more detail really what happened what bit you were using and how dip and maybe a picture would help it can be many thing or the project ?

[bergerud]

Well, you could order a new FFC ribbon. It is cheap and it is high on the list of possibilities. It would be a shame to order a new z motor if the problem was just a bad connection.

[Digitalwoodshop]

I see you joined in 2007 so we are likely talking about a "A" machine.

First off... If the machine has not been updated to the 14 pin A907 Kit then that is the first place to start. The Power and the return encoder pulses flow through the flat cable either the old 18 pin or the newer 14 pin version and a broken wire inside will cause this. As in the machine is plunging DOWN and the computer is looking for the pulses to count and it never see's it... SO the computer keeps driving in the down direction until it stalls... My second machine did this in 2007... BUT.... it was not the cable... it was the ENCODER.... See picture of the encoder and the little round solder pads on the UNDERSIDE of the plug... The Donuts were known to snap when the physical plug is not inserted in all the way BEFORE soldering and later pushing the plug in or vibration caused the donut to lift off the board and SNAP the connection. Hence.... Head driving into the board....

To fix.. New Z Motor.... few can handle the repair as the board is soldered on the end of the motor...

Also a DIRTY Black encoder can cause this AND a Loose Clear DISK on the end of the motor can also cause this...

So like above... bad FFC Cable too can cause this...

You can see the date in the early picture with 2 machines down at the same time. One for the Power Supply L2 snapped and the other for a Z Motor.

And the old FFC was 18 pin not 16 as in my picture...

AL

[ChrisR]

Many thanks for all of the responses received. Al, you are correct. I am driving a "Model A." (That meant something completely different to my grandfather!) I had to replace my z-truck in 2008. Your pictures are very helpful. The configuration of plugs on the head termination electronics board in your photo for the "new" 14-pin connector looks like the one that I installed with that z truck. I will order the FCC ribbon and plan to do some cleaning and inspecting when I get back to the shop. If the ribbon fixes it, great. If not, I'm sure I will be back for more advice. Either way, I will take some pictures and post them.

btw, I also remember the advice in your signature block about using masking tape--and have used it often! Thanks for all of the help you provide in this forum. I have used it many times without even signing in.

Chris R.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Many thanks for all of the responses received. Al, you are correct. I am driving a "Model A." (That meant something completely different to my grandfather!) I had to replace my z-truck in 2008. Your pictures are very helpful. The configuration of plugs on the head termination electronics board in your photo for the "new" 14-pin connector looks like the one that I installed with that z truck. I will order the FCC ribbon and plan to do some cleaning and inspecting when I get back to the shop. If the ribbon fixes it, great. If not, I'm sure I will be back for more advice. Either way, I will take some pictures and post them.

btw, I also remember the advice in your signature block about using masking tape--and have used it often! Thanks for all of the help you provide in this forum. I have used it many times without even signing in.

Chris R.

Your welcome !!!

As long as your ordering stuff... Getting a 4 wire cable that goes from the board sensor to the top of the head is very cheap and really helps troubleshooting a board sensor problem by plugging in a sensor on top. The early sensors were not glued and the LED's would snap... and having a extra sensor is good too.... Your already paying for shipping... Just a thought... and Cut Motor Brushes too... I can spend your money..... :)

Good Luck

AL

[ChrisR]

Well, I finally made it back from deep, dark Africa. My problem seems a little more severe than the ribbon. Running the Z-truck test, I was serenaded with the sound of stripped gears. As promised, attached are a few pictures. One is the key fob I want to make again (an imbondeiro tree on a piece of takula wood), another piece of takula wood that didn't quite work out (I swear I was right there in the shop--it happened very quickly!), a few with the keypad readouts, and the dramatic video with the sound of grinding gears. I think it is pretty clear that I need new gears for the Z-truck. Is there anything else I should check while I am at it?

Many thanks always,

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https://youtu.be/Nv7ixgDjjBU

[bergerud]

You may not need new gears. The motor could have moved and unmeshed the gears. It may just be a matter of adjustment. Don't order any parts until you take a closer look at the z motor gears.

It could also just be the small bearings gone on the white gear. (This is common with the y motor.)

[SteveNelson46]

Take a really close look at the bit. The sleeve could have slipped and caused the initial problem. If it did slip, the excess resistance could strip the gears. I have had a bit slip in the sleeve a couple of times.

[ChrisR]

Hi bergerud. You were right. The screws securing the Z motor had come loose over time. Picture attached. I snugged everything up and voila, a working CarveWright again.

Many thanks to everyone. Now I have signs to make, fobs to carve, etc.

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