Centerline and Rotary Carve

[flyingemt]

All,

I have had some requests for my 30mm A-10 bullets for some retiring members.

They would like to have their names and service dates carved into them as well.

Will a 60 degree V bit reach that far? I am thinking probably not, the software accepts the input, but want to make sure before I go into production.

Thoughts??

Mike~

[bergerud]

I have been waiting for someone to experiment with vector cuts and the rotary. It should not be too hard to see if the bit will make it. Just put the bit in and see how far down it reaches. I do not think it will make it. Even though the software looks like it would work, the truck will bottom out and give you a z stall.

You may need something like the ER11M adapter or maybe you can buy a third party V bit with a longer shank. I think it can be done if you can get a long enough bit.

[flyingemt]

I have been waiting for someone to experiment with vector cuts and the rotary. It should not be too hard to see if the bit will make it. Just put the bit in and see how far down it reaches. I do not think it will make it. Even though the software looks like it would work, the truck will bottom out and give you a z stall.

You may need something like the ER11M adapter or maybe you can buy a third party V bit with a longer shank. I think it can be done if you can get a long enough bit.

Dan, take a look, thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-2214-4-Inch-Groove-Designs/dp/B002YD7ZJK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1439357828&sr=1-2&keywords=long+v+groove+router+bits

[bergerud]

Nowhere could I find out how long it is. It might also be cheap and not last too long. Could be worth a try though.

The ER11M adapter is the most useful thing. Everyone should have at least one of them. It gets my standard CW 60V bit to within 1/2" of the rotary center. (It would take awhile to get one since they come from China.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1pcs-1-2-ER11-28L-Straight-collet-chuck-and-3pcs-ER11-collet-1-4-3-16and1-8-/281142871145?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41756bc469

[flyingemt]

Dan,

What about this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-C12-ER11M-100L-Straight-Shank-Collet-chuck-toolholder-CNC-Milling-Chuck-/300907754690

[bergerud]

That is from the same seller as the ER11M adapter. It would take just as long to get. There are no collets or wrench with it, and the shank is 12mm instead of 1/2". If you can handle the wait, the ER11M adapter is well worth it. It comes with three collets (1/8", 3/16", and 1/4") and the wrench. It was designed for the CT and opens up a whole new world of bits you can use.

[flyingemt]

What about the overall length though? Are you confident it would be able to reach or am I missing something?

[SteveNelson46]

All,

I have had some requests for my 30mm A-10 bullets for some retiring members.

They would like to have their names and service dates carved into them as well.

Will a 60 degree V bit reach that far? I am thinking probably not, the software accepts the input, but want to make sure before I go into production.

Thoughts??

Mike~

The Designer program will allow you to do it but will yield a Z axis error if the diameter of the project is small enough to not allow the bit to touch the wood. Awhile back I did some screwdrivers with custom names and I had to use raster and the long 1/8" carving bit. Here are some pics of the finished project and one of a screen capture with centerline.

[bergerud]

What about the overall length though? Are you confident it would be able to reach or am I missing something?

With the ER11M adapter, I can easily get the standard V bits to within 1/2" of the rotary jig center. I could even get closer by hanging the ER11M adapter out a little.

[bergerud]

Here are some pics of the finished project and one of a screen capture with centerline.

Nice handle. Did you ever actually use the centerline?

[SteveNelson46]

Nice handle. Did you ever actually use the centerline?


No. It kept giving me a Z axis error. I had to switch to raster and the long 1/8" carving bit. It may work if the shaft on the v-bit was longer and had a 1/2" shank but then there would still be lateral stress and flexing issues.

[bergerud]

I think with small text and a sharp V bit, it will be fine using the adapter.

[SteveNelson46]

Amazon has a router bit extender but I am not so sure it would be applicable for the Carvewright.

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-796-001-00-Router-Extension-Collets/dp/B000P4NQCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439399862&sr=8-1&keywords=router+bit+extender

[flyingemt]

Ok, so I couldn't wait two weeks to come from China, so I ordered Steve's suggestion from Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/CMT-796-001-00-Router-Extension-Collets/dp/B000P4NQCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439399862&sr=8-1&keywords=router+bit+extender.

I had to cut an inch off of the shank to make it fit into the chuck, and once installed, machine asks for the V-bit, goes into homing, bounces 3 times at the left side then I get a Y-Axis stall error? Has been able to repeat, and same result.

Any thoughts here? Too heavy with the extension? Extension collet too wide?

About to abort this project....

Mike

[bergerud]

The y stall must be unrelated to the extender. A z stall would make me wonder, but a y stall. Is the bit hitting the side of the bit plate??

Maybe you could explain step by step of what it does.

[bergerud]

I just gave it a try with the ER11M and the 60V. I noticed that the V bit hit the side of the rotary jig on the first, beside the drive plate bob. It was ok and the carve started after the following touches at the bit plate and the top of the rotary plate. I think that the extender you have is too fat and must be hitting the rotary drive plate.

Try this: Do not put in the extension and bit. Let it measure the jig with no bit and just after the beside the drive plate bob, as the carriage heads toward the bit plate, raise the cover. Put in the extender and bit, close the cover a let it continue. It should touch the bit plate, do a few bobs back at the top of the drive plate, and then carve.

[flyingemt]

Extended the V-bit in the collet about 3/8". Now this is the result...... :-)

~

[bergerud]

Success! Looks pretty good.

[cestout]

Looks good. Now we know it can be done!
Clint

[flyingemt]

So, just when you think you have it, this happens! Can anyone rationalize why this wave effect in the text lines is happening??

Mike


77657

[fwharris]

So, just when you think you have it, this happens! Can anyone rationalize why this wave effect in the text lines is happening??

Mike


77657


My guess is that the round slipped in the jig. To much pressure from the V bit???

[bergerud]

I was afraid of that happening. I think it is simply poor tracking.

[flyingemt]

Soooooo, any ideas? Can't use masking tape on this, lol.....

[flyingemt]

Dan, if it were tracking, wouldn't I in turn have issues with the carve as a whole, and with the logo also? Both were pristine...

Mike

[flyingemt]

My guess is that the round slipped in the jig. To much pressure from the V bit???

How can the round slip in the jig when there are 3 screws holding it in place? Or are you referring to the jig belt slipping?

Mike

[fwharris]

How can the round slip in the jig when there are 3 screws holding it in place? Or are you referring to the jig belt slipping?

Mike

Yes more of a tracking issue vs the round slipping. With the original "Ed Ba
ker Jig" V carving was at our own risk because of the V bit biting to deep in the dowel and causing it to slip or the tracking.

[bergerud]

Dan, if it were tracking, wouldn't I in turn have issues with the carve as a whole, and with the logo also? Both were pristine...

Mike

Carving and routing are fundamentally different on the CW. Carving moves the board in small increments between the cutting whereas routing moves the board while cutting. Routing also moves the board back and forth. The tracking on the rotary jig is not very good. You have seen how hard it is to calibrate it. On the rotary, there is also a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage for the bit force to move the jig under the rollers. Watch to see if the jig moves. (If the jig moves 1/32" in the machine, the top of the dowel moves 1/16".)

You are in new territory here. I am ready to believe that the tracking is not good enough for routing.

I would cut two thin strips of hardwood at least 1/8" thick and 1" wide to put between the jig and the belts. (They would need to be 3' long for the calibration but then you could use shorter ones for carving.) I think if you get the rubber off of the rubber, the tracking will greatly improve.

Edit: I would have tried this myself, but instead, I built my own jig.