Dovetails

[bergerud]

I and many others have been thinking about dovetails for a long time now. I thought I would use my ACB to give it a try. Here is my first attempt using a 1/4" dovetail bit. The cuts were not quite deep enough (x adjustment) and so the pins ended up a little proud. The fit, however, was really nice.

This method has, of course, the severe limitation that the side has to fit vertical in the machine. This limits the technique to making things like small parts or jewellery box drawers.

I used place on end and the machine did not place that accurately on the end. Once tweaked however, the ACB, with the slide in and out feature, could accurately run them off.

[RogerB]

This is great thanks for sharing. I am hoping you will do a small video on setting up for this. Please.:rolleyes:

[henry1]

great sharing Have to say like roger hope you do a video

[bergerud]

This was just the first try. I think I will make a jig to fit in the carrier. Too bad the process can only make 5" deep boxes.

[zan29]

That's pretty cool Dan, I have tried a few myself and it worked out pretty good!

[bergerud]

That's pretty cool Dan, I have tried a few myself and it worked out pretty good!


You have used the CW to make dovetails?

[fwharris]

Dan,

Great concept!

[bergerud]

Dan,

Great concept!

I am afraid it is just an academic exercise. The 5" side length restriction makes it pretty well useless. I have racked my brain trying to think of a non trivial way to use it. Too bad since it provides a perfect fit straight out of the machine.

[edsingletary]

I use the Porter Cable 4216 jig. Found it simpler. Someone told me years ago, if you can do it better by hand then skip the computer. One day CW people will have a 199.00 module for dovetail. Hope they get the module for pocket cuts. Sure could use that.

[SteveNelson46]

I am afraid it is just an academic exercise. The 5" side length restriction makes it pretty well useless. I have racked my brain trying to think of a non trivial way to use it. Too bad since it provides a perfect fit straight out of the machine.


Dan,

Here is a link to the Vectric dovetail gadget tutorial. Of course, it can't be used on the Carvewright but it might give you some insight on how to layout dovetails on a flat board. This video is in the public domain and anyone can go the webpage and view it. It's the second video down on the page. Fillets are an interesting way to compensate for the radius of the bit on inside corners.

http://gadgets.vectric.com/dovetail.html

[bergerud]

I have done something like that before. See: http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?19892-Finger-Joints&p=169453#post169453

I have not given up yet.

[zan29]

Not sure I can call them dovetail the way it was setup but. Let me work on an image for you.


You have used the CW to make dovetails?

[zan29]

Here's what I did on my test a while back. The fit was very good, I was surprised.
77476

[bergerud]

Cool. Those are called box joints I think. I called my earlier attempt finger joints but I think they were box joints as well. You must have had to clean up the corners which were left with a radius from the cutting bit.

[oscarl48]

Box joints, finger joints, comb joints. lol. take your pick.

[zan29]

I had to clean up a bit but overall it looked pretty good! That's where the corner chisel comes in handy!
Michael Tyler has a very good technique also on one of his projects for Vectric.

[mtylerfl]

I had to clean up a bit but overall it looked pretty good! That's where the corner chisel comes in handy!
Michael Tyler has a very good technique also on one of his projects for Vectric.

Yes, I was pretty excited about the method I came up with - even though it is not a "true" finger joint in the conventional sense, I still love the effect and no worries about rounded corners or anything like that to interfere with the tight fit (all corners are perfectly square). I must say I'm surprised that more folks didn't jump on this type of "faux finger-joint" technique after I introduced/developed it (or maybe they did and I just don't hear about it). I still think it might be way under-utilized! Perhaps I'll do a CarveWright project someday using the technique (which I call the "offset finger-joint").

[bergerud]

They look great. Give us some more details! That picture is just a teaser.

[mtylerfl]

This should reveal the "how I did it"!

[bergerud]

That is very cool. All sharp corners.

[mtylerfl]

Funny, this idea came to me early one morning sitting on the porch during my first cup of coffee. Totally out of the blue, it came. I made a quick perspective sketch so I wouldn't forget the setup, then designed the layout in the software and cut it that afternoon (actually, I cut the first panel that morning...still had to figure out the mating panel layout and did that in the afternoon).

[aokweld101]

yes Micheal, nice job of coarse, don't want you to think I have my hand out waiting on your pattern but I would like to understand your concept.

[bergerud]

Finally, I have the CW making real dovetails. Half blind ones like the router jigs make. Two days with many tries.

The tail end is made with the 3/16" carving bit. It has desirable straight sides. The cost is large radii in the corners but that is taken care of with the 1/16" carving bit on the pin end. Also, I used a 9/16" thick Designer board when the real board was only 1/2". This was to get the ball of the 3/16" carving bit below the board.

I used a regular 1/2" dovetail bit for the pin end. I picked the 3/16" cutting bit in the software and then loaded the dovetail bit instead. Unfortunately this is the largest bit, I think, which does not "automatically" make multiple passes. (Learned that on the first try choosing the 1/2" straight bit.) So, to make it easier on the machine, I carved out some of the material with the carving bit first.

I used my carrier bases so that I could stay under the rollers even though I was cutting on the board ends.

It is not quite perfect, but really close.

[fwharris]

The fit looks real good. I think you have the cat skinned on this one!

[zan29]

That's awesome Dan!

[mtylerfl]

Very cool, Dan! Nice technique and beautiful joint!

[henry1]

Man I like that beautiful joint!

[aokweld101]

Another job well done, it is one I will have to put in Dan's corner of the shop....;)

[bergerud]

I was so impressed with Michael's box joints (http://forum.carvewright.com/showthread.php?27793-Dovetails&p=250123#post250123), I had to steal the idea see what I could do with it. The thing to notice is that the joints are all machined on the face of the boards as opposed to the ends like most joints. This means that the CW can easily make them. It does mean the pins are weak because of the grain direction, but that just means one has to use good, hard wood. Once it is all glued together, it will not matter.

My plan was to inlay strips of wood into the slots left in the sides. But after making this prototype out of old shelf material, I like the color contrast and the pins that can be seen in the slot. Maybe I may use some contrasting wood. The idea, like most boxes, is to glue it all together, finish the faces and edges, and then cut off the lid.

I think this is a great basis for a box. One can carve whatever one wants on the faces- router the edges. (note, however, the front and top would have be double sided projects.) Add whatever type of hinge or lock, and so on.

I will finish this box but I plan to come back to this with some more exotic wood. Maybe jewelry boxes for the granddaughters next Christmas.

Here is a file with the parts. You only need a sharp 1/8" cutting bit.

[CNC Carver]

Wonderful work that will make very nice dovetails.
Jeff

[Bigtyme]

Great job on the box, Dan. This will certainly be a great addition to the box options and I like the way the joints are highlighted. Going to have to find some time to give this a try. Thank you for sharing the design...

[RogerB]

Dan thank you for your work and sharing. This is great. :p