Pricing projects

[nodwell]

After being asked for the millionth time “How much would you charge to make me one?” I decided to create a spreadsheet to guide me in pricing things. To use fill out the required info (shown in red). When calculating wood cost it will add an extra 8 inches to cover lost from staying under rollers.

Don

[BobHill]

Don,

Although I don't argue the price, certainly, instead of accounting for a waste of wood (always a bad thing to do), why not use an end and sometimes width also sled to make sure that the work material stays under the rollers and thus, leaves very little waste wood. Make the sled adjustable tot he size of the project and you can use cheaper aspen or white pine to handle the end and side pieces, masonite or even mdf for the bottom carrier (hot clue or a wax stick glue to hold it temporarily for the project).

Bob Hill
Tampa Florida

[nodwell]

Bob

I have been thinking of doing that. How precise does the thickness of the sled ends need to be to the work piece?

Don

[pkunk]

I charge on a much simpler basis. Being as my wood cost is negligable or use of scrap, I only charge for machine time. $60 hr, + whatever finishing/painting if required. Very few have said it's too much.:D

[cajunpen]

I'm with Pkunk, $60/hr for the machine, plus materials. That should turn a fair profit and make everyone happy. Most projects take 40+ minutes to complete, I break it down in 15 minute increments. For a 45 minute project I would charge $45 + material. For the most part, wood cost is minimal - you don't actually use that much on any particular project.

[rgant05]

Don, Thanks for the tool of the spread sheet. Pricing is always a sensitive area, and for the most part depends on the market, area of the country as well as other factors like repeatedly cut designs, but tools to figure it are always handy.

Pkunks method is also and easy and quick way to figure it. Not sure I can get $60/hr in my area of rural TN, but then it depends on the design I come up with and how much design time I have in it.... and the clientel that I am dealing with.

Also appreciate the tip on reducing scrap. I have only cut 4 projects but already realizing that I need to do something to reduce the scap so I can use more of the smaller pieces I have laying around. Hope to be "sledding" before long. Still have a lot to learn as I transition from the theoretical to the actual world of carving.


Roger

[dpowli]

Hi Pkunk,
I have a question for you if you don't mind. At your $60/hr price, are you carving in normal or best? I have been using best for most carvings and in my area I'm not sure my customers would pay the price for "best" carving times.
Thanks

[pkunk]

I always use best. The majority of the quicky signs that I make are text only, and in centerline a sign 6 x 24 is only 10-15 min. & there is no best or quality difference.

[nodwell]

15-20 min!! Sure beats using raster and having to hog out all the excess.

Talked with lady at CW 2/14/07 and was told centerline would be released in about 2 months. Has anyone heard any more info on this?


Don

[Julie Coffey]

15-20 min!! Sure beats using raster and having to hog out all the excess.

Talked with lady at CW 2/14/07 and was told centerline would be released in about 2 months. Has anyone heard any more info on this?


Don

Two months? ARGH..... fortunately there are a few on the boards here who are willing to punch out a quick centerline for others. I won't speak for them they will make themselves known if they choose to. When they have the time - of course. Funny isn't it everyones waiting on centerline- I haven't seen that many folks breaking a sweat over the release of the expanded library.

J

[BobHill]

Don,

I always keep the ends and sides as high as the inside wood that I'm using and try to keep the wood pretty tight to the end pieces as well.

Bob


Bob

I have been thinking of doing that. How precise does the thickness of the sled ends need to be to the work piece?

Don

[nodwell]

Bob

At work I deal with tolerances of .001" or less so I am conditioned to see what some would consider as a small difference as something unacceptable. If I make ends of sled a true .750 and my project board is .720 or .780 thick would that be OK? At what point would you start getting into trouble with different heights?

Don