Sometimes it's so obvious

[kelsky]

I am putting in a new patio and built steps to get down to it. On the posts, I want to put a cap on them so they wouldn't take on moisture on the end grain and Crack to pieces. Looking all over to find some to buy. 6 x 6 end caps of the plastic variety were $20-30 each. I wanted wood so I could match them with the stain I used on the posts. Even higher in price. For two weeks I kept searching. Then it hit me. Carve them myself. Duh...why not. So went and bought a $10 2"x10"x8' piece of pine. Pretty basic design and here is the results.  769907699176992

[zan29]

Very good idea and very nice job you did!

[rcdages]

Well done. I really think you did quite will.

Some times we look pass the answer that is in front of us.
I know I do at times. I tend to over think it.

[Bigtyme]

Great job on the caps and thanks for planting the seed to look to use what you have before running to the store.

[henry1]

Great job on the caps nice ideal for every one to see what CW can do

[rickroy]

Thanks for the reminder that we have an incredible maching tool at our disposal. These caps look perfect!

[dbemus]

Great idea, they really look nice. I am sure others will be making caps for their deck posts.

[RogerB]

76999Nice idea I have been making them with a router for years. Did you use 2D or 3D software.I make the posts 3 inch and 3.5 inch.Could use the pattern if you are willing to share. I'm running 1.87. Thanks for sharing a great idea.

[kelsky]

I'd share but I am using ver 3. Yes I used 3d tools on this. This is really easy and great starter project. Basically draw a square box, select puffing and then bevel. I picked a depth of .75 since this is a 1.5" thick board. Then on the back side, a smaller box for where the post will fit. Choose carve region with a depth of .5. You'll need to align the front and back appropriately, but that is it. I couldn't believe how easy this was to do.

[zan29]

Here's the MPC and I've used the same thickness as kelsky. Remember it's a two-sided carve and it's for Designer 1.

77005

[zan29]

Sorry wrong MPC, use this one since the front is a pattern.

[Bigtyme]

Very nice, Suzanne... Thanks for sharing it....

[henry1]

Here's the MPC and I've used the same thickness as kelsky. Remember it's a two-sided carve and it's for Designer 1.

77005
Sorry don't have the 3D to do it

[aokweld101]

I havn't done anything that is 1.5 thick how would you attack it Iv'e been wanting to know that... do you have to slice it to make it work !

[lynnfrwd]

Here's the MPC and I've used the same thickness as kelsky. Remember it's a two-sided carve and it's for Designer 1.

77005
I would sure put a ramped up area (Feather - flipped, maybe) on that outer square with a .75" drop-off (cliff) to help avoid breaking a bit.

[zan29]

A 1/4" feather for sure (left it for the users discretion) and you don't have to slice it. Just carve as usual....the bit can handle 3/4" deep just like a pierced carve.
Henry you can still do it, I've made a pattern with it.

[henry1]

A 1/4" feather for sure (left it for the users discretion) and you don't have to slice it. Just carve as usual....the bit can handle 3/4" deep just like a pierced carve.
Henry you can still do it, I've made a pattern with it.

got it thx work good

[bergerud]

This is the kind of thing I would do. Cut out the pocket as opposed to carve it. Make some tabs. Cut out the square...

[aokweld101]

Thanks for that tid bit of information.

[henry1]

This is the kind of thing I would do. Cut out the pocket as opposed to carve it. Make some tabs. Cut out the square...

what was your setting for the 1/8 bit to cut at .094

[zan29]

You're right Dan which I forgot. What I normally do is a first cut with the 1/8" cutting bit with an .062" offset, then offset the square by .1 and carve the rest with the 1/16" carving bit. Lot faster to create than having to offset a bunch of squares or create lines and you still get straight walls......


This is the kind of thing I would do. Cut out the pocket as opposed to carve it. Make some tabs. Cut out the square...

[bergerud]

what was your setting for the 1/8 bit to cut at .094


Sometimes I like to use a 3/32" snap grid to hog out the middle with less passes.

[RogerB]

Wow thank you .This will save me some work and Fingers.:rolleyes:

[bergerud]

You're right Dan which I forgot. What I normally do is a first cut with the 1/8" cutting bit with an .062" offset, then offset the square by .1 and carve the rest with the 1/16" carving bit. Lot faster to create than having to offset a bunch of squares or create lines and you still get straight walls......

You are right. It takes longer to set up all the cutting bit passes. It may even take a little longer to cut out. You do get a smoother bottom. Many of my projects are all milling and so I also like to just use the same bit. But, it is also fun to figure the bit paths to cut out complicated pockets. See what I have been working on for example.

[zan29]

My method would save you a lot time in the designing part of it...........don't know what it is but sure looks pretty wild.

[kelsky]

I decided to take mine to the cut-off saw and forget trying to cut them out with the machine. I could cut it out far faster and with a smoother edge than using the machine to deal along with the complications of cutting through 1 1/2" wood.


This is the kind of thing I would do. Cut out the pocket as opposed to carve it. Make some tabs. Cut out the square...