Bits get stuck in my rock chuck

[djarboe]

I often have trouble getting the bits out of my rock chuck, even if I let it cool down. Any suggestions? Should I put a very thin coat of 3-in-1 oil on the bits' shanks?

Dave

[Digitalwoodshop]

Never had a problem getting bits out of the rock. And never had to worry about letting it cool down... If you have a Bearing problem inside the spindle, it could be oil inside the top hat... remove the 2 screws to check. Usually comes from using TOO much lube on the flex.

So once you loosen the screw, you can push the wrench to help push the locking nut back releasing the bit.

I would also look at the bit for burr's.

I did have a problem with my 1/4 inch bit with the flat spot where it would let the locking nut jam into the flat spot. I would rotate the bit when I felt the locking nut fall into the flat spot.

Never lock the bit in the flat spot.

The lower section of the Rock comes off for easy inspection.

If you ever switch to a CT I buy used Rock Chucks and parts.

AL

[djarboe]

Al, the bits I'm using do not have flats. Another question... about how much of the shank should be up in the rock chuck?

Let me correct that last statement. I also have carving and cutting bits with flats, and have made sure they are clear of the locking screw.

Another thought comes to mind. When hot, the chuck, made of steel will expand more than the carbide bit. Letting it cool down may actually not be a good idea, since that will let the steel chuck to contract again, gripping the carbide bit tighter. Does this make sense, or am I just fishing.....

One warning, which should be obvious, when trying to remove the cutting bit, I lightly tapped around it with the rubber coated end of the hex wrench for the rock chuck. I was able to get it to slide some up and down holding the shank, but not come out. As I pulled down harder, which got the bit out, my fingers slipped, and went down the flutes. Those are really sharp, and I got a nasty cut on one finger. Those things are SHARP! Alway use gloves!!!

Dave

[Digitalwoodshop]

I install the bits until they are up past the lock. I would check the bit for a mushroomed head on the back end causing your problems.

It still bothers me you have a hot spindle... that is not normal....

AL

[DocWheeler]

Dave,

On my original Rock chuck, I created a burr by tightening it against the notch in a bit.
I took it apart and removed the burr with a stone.
The "nut" or Cam part should move freely when the bit is removed, if not take it out and knock off the burr.

I bought a Rock chuck from another forum member and found that it had both a burr on the
cam (if that is what it should be called) as well as burrs directly behind where the cam presses.
That took me about five minutes with a rat-tail file to correct.

I would suggest that you remove the lower part and inspect the hole that the bit goes into.
Remove the bolt and cam-nut so it won't get touched by filing and inspect the bore.
Take a fine rat-tail file, as large as possible, and file the inside of the hole where the bit goes in.
You can feel if it contacts a burr, otherwise it will not remove enough material to matter.

[djarboe]

Al, when I said hot, I did not mean blazing hot. Just heat from bit friction with the wood. I can still touch it with my hand.... but now will wear gloves to remove it.

Thanks!