Scanning Probe

[Bill]

On Ebay,
It says "new" Scanning Probe looks like it has a minimum of $200.00
and has no bids so far but has 6 days to go.
http://cgi.ebay.com/COMPUCARVE-SCANNER-PROBE-3-D-SCAN-OBJECTS_W0QQitemZ280092047976QQcategoryZ632QQssPag eNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[pkunk]

It's up to $237.50 now. I asked him why he was selling. Answer is there on ebay. He seems legit, but if anyone wants to bid remember that new from CW is $299. ;)

[Bill]

The reason I posted it was if some one would like to bid
on it perhaps could get a good deal.

Myself when I am ready I will buy a new one from CW.

[Julie Coffey]

I looked at the sellers name and it reminded me of a guy who posted a month or so back saying he was scanning and thinking of using his CC for gun grips?

Could be the same guy and things didn't work out for him as he'd hoped.

J

And Pkunk your right new from CW is 299.00 when they have them in- I just put my order in last week and was told it could be several weeks before they get their next order in and there is no guarantee they will have enough to cover all the orders. EEP! I'll wait and get new but even I was tempted on this one. (that whole fast food I want it now generation) thing I guess.

[Kenm810]

Hi Julie
I totally agree with (that whole fast food I want it now generation) I think it’s been called (the need for instant gratification). I know I’m guilty of it, and probably many of us are. Very little or, no patients waiting for anything. It kind of goes hand in hand with impulse buying. - I’ve been waiting for the bits I ordered from CW, I read a post earlier that a local woodcrafter store (one of my favorite toy stores) had a 20% sale on bits, so yesterday I went to pickup a 60 degree V grove bit. I really didn’t notices till I got to my car, the two bags of – stuff - in my hand plus one bit. (I did it again)

[RC Woodworks]

Bill, you seem to know what you are talking about! So I am directing this question to you. This may sound dumb but how does the scanning probe work?
Do you know of a video that may show how it fuction? Matter of fact do you know of a video about the CC? Or is the manual the only source of information?

I am on my 3rd machine and so far it is performing well! So with the first 2 I have not had a chance to figure out all it can do. I have a sign shop and I have hand routed my signs. I am using the CC now so I can program it and go inside and play on the computer!

I have been trying different bits I purchased fro Price Cutters and I don't know if it is the reclaimed old growth redwood I use or the bits? But in some of the signs I am getting a lot of wood chips in the letters. I have tried 60,90 and my favorite 22 degree bits. The problem is I can't select a 22 degree bit so I select 1/8 carving bit. Do you know if the bit you use or select controls the speed of the on board motor?

Maybe it is how I design the project? Well I am off the original subject! If you know of any video or anyone else please let me know. Otherwise back to the manual!! :(

[Bill]

Hello RC,

I really do not do a lot of signs so I would not be the best person
to advise you on the 60,90 or 22 bits and the letters chipping out.
I myself would ask pkunk (http://www.carvewright.com/forum/member.php?u=829) or Jon Jantz (http://www.carvewright.com/forum/member.php?u=1065) I believe the do a lot of
lettering using different types of bits and would be the best people
to help you.


Do you know of a video that may show how it function? Matter of fact do you know of a video about the CC?

The only video that I am aware of is the one on CW home page,
you can also download there video here.
http://www.carvewright.com/video.html (http://www.carvewright.com/video.html)

[RC Woodworks]

Thanks Bill, I will continue to try each bit. I have been making signs for 27 years now and carving the signs by hand I have no problems with the bits.

Again thanks I will continue to test each bit and try different designs

[Julie Coffey]

The bidding is over and it shows no bids- must have ended it early outside of ebay. ::grumbles::

[BoardSilly]

The only video that I am aware of is the one on CW home page,
you can also download there video here.
http://www.carvewright.com/video.html (http://www.carvewright.com/video.html)

Did you ever watch the video and really pay attention to it? When the operator shows the finished carve of the Angel design at the end, notice it has the 'dimples' in it on the left side. <grin> The ptn was bad even then. Not bad mouthing it, just think it was cute to notice.

[Bill]

Did you ever watch the video and really pay attention to it?

As many times as I have watched this video I never seen the dimples
even now I had to watch it the second time to catch it. :rolleyes:

[mtylerfl]

...how does the scanning probe work?
Do you know of a video that may show how it fuction? Matter of fact do you know of a video about the CC? Or is the manual the only source of information?... If you know of any video or anyone else please let me know. Otherwise back to the manual!! :(


Hello,

I am making a video showing the Scanning Probe in action and how to set the LCD panel options. I took the raw video footage today and should have the narration/editing done by next week for anyone interested. I'll post a link when it's ready.

[rgant05]

Yes Mike, I am interested when it is ready. I am planning on ordering a scanner soon and would like to see it in use and how to use it.

[mtylerfl]

Hello,

I finished the Scanning Probe Video. Here is the link...
http://www.carvebuddy.com/scanningvideo_how_it_works.html

[jonweis]

A really professional job......first class all the way:D:D:D:p

Jon

[Skyhawk]

Thanks Michael, I've been wondering how that worked! I do plan on purchasing a probe one of these days, and this was very helpful!

[Rick Devine]

Very impressive! Not only was the video informative, but your voiceover was excellent! Thank you for taking the time to show how the probe worked and also your tips on getting it to work correctly.

[Kenm810]

Michael,

Thanks for the running head start with the probe.
I'm expecting mine in couple of weeks,
can't wait to get my hands on it

[Dennis Perry]

Hello Michael, great video, I have scanned several items soom were more than 12 hours works great.

Thanks again Dennis

[Bill]

Good job ;) , very nice

[Gary]

Thanks for the video! I got my probe last week, haven't had a chance to build a sled or use the probe yet. I feel much more confident now. Thanks so much!

Gary

[rgant05]

Thanks Michael for an excellent demonstration of the scanning probe. With that demo, I called today and ordered my probe. I figured if I wanted it by summer I better get a jump on it. You made the process look entirely non-threatening and so easy not only a caveman could use it, but maybe, just maybe I could use it also. You need to contact CW to get your commision on the sale. LOL They said it would be a couple of weeks and I was thinking the whole time....yeah... right. I have been looking for the bits that I ordered in January and still haven't received the yet. They said those would be going out Monday, but I am not going to stay at home next week and wait for them. LOL

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes, Excellent Video, Thank You !!! I will put a probe on order.

SOLD !!!

AL

[meat]

Hello,

I finished the Scanning Probe Video. Here is the link...
http://www.computermusicproducts.com/probevideo.html

Excellent! Well done! I now completely understand how the scanning probe works!

Your pal,
Meat.

[mtylerfl]

Thank you all for the kind words about the Scanning Video.

It was my pleasure to contribute to such a fine group.

Glad you enjoyed it!

[Julie Coffey]

Thank you very much for the fine work! Now I really can't wait to get mine in.

Wonderful effort :)

J

[pamjmayo]

I watched your video and it was really wonderful. I don't have a scanner yet as I'm still trying to find out a market so I can pay for my machine. Does each item that is being scanned need to go into a sled. If so, what dimensions did you use with yours. I guess I'll learn to bevel and miter after all.

[mtylerfl]

I watched your video and it was really wonderful. I don't have a scanner yet as I'm still trying to find out a market so I can pay for my machine. Does each item that is being scanned need to go into a sled. If so, what dimensions did you use with yours. I guess I'll learn to bevel and miter after all.


Yes, you have to use a sled to scan any item. I simply built mine out of laminated white shelving I picked up at Home Depot. I bought a 12"x36"x5/8" shelf for the bed platform and a 8"x36"x5/8" shelf to rip for the two side rails, which are 2 7/8" wide by 36" long. I then drilled through the rails into and along the sides of the 12x36 shelf, countersunk the holes in the rails and screwed the side rails to the sides of the shelf. The sled overall height is 2 7/8", but just 2 1/4" from the surface of the sled platform to the top of the side rails.

[ChiselMeTimbers]

Kudos! Very helpful.

Question, though about the sled. Doesn't it tend to deform the top rollers along the edges?

Thanks again.

[mtylerfl]

Kudos! Very helpful.

Question, though about the sled. Doesn't it tend to deform the top rollers along the edges?

Thanks again.

Haven't had any problem with any deformation.

[Kenm810]

Here’s some Bronze Age weaponry (Originals on the sled are 12 to 14 inch bronze Spear points) getting ready for scanning. They’ll be covered by a thin protective layer to preserve the green patina, and held in place by pegs plus double sided tape. Then turn over and scanned again for double sided replica carvings. The originals are to scarce to be used in movies or even in some museums.

[meat]

Here’s some Bronze Age weaponry (Originals on the sled are 12 to 14 inch bronze Spear points) getting ready for scanning. They’ll be covered by a thin protective layer to preserve the green patina, and held in place by pegs plus double sided tape. Then turn over and scanned again for double sided replica carvings. The originals are to scarce to be used in movies or even in some museums.

Are they different on the other sides? If not ... why not just scan once and do a mirror of the one side for the back? Might save on wear and tear on the pieces and the CW machine.

...I'm just sayin'...

Your pal,
Meat.

[Kenm810]

Meat,

I would like to just mirror them. But their hand cast and forged,
quite irregular in shape and often bowed.
They will be viewed closely from both sides,
so mirroring would not be acceptable.
But Thanks for the thought

[Ted Grinnell]

Once you carve these knives out of WOOD, the wood will swell and detail will be lost.

You may consider carving them out of plastic.

Just food for thought

[Kenm810]

Hi Ted,
Thanks for the thought

When we carve a replica or exact reproductions of ancient artifacts, We often soak then dry the wood blanks over several days in a sealer-hardener bath before the carving begins. In the case of these spear blades, we used South American Bloodwood; it is very fine grained and rated at 2900 on the Janka hardness scale, twice as hard as hard Maple at 1450. It is often used as very durable wood flooring. After treating the Bloodwood blanks we really haven’t had any problems with swelling or distortion. And carves or machines much like Corian or other man made marbles, producing a lot of dust and few chips. After the bonze patina is applied we have a faithful copy exact in all the original details.

[pastime106]

Ken,
That is a most interesting process that you go through. I would have never thought about soaking the wood in this way. What is that is used as a sealer-hardener bath?
My probe has been on back order for a while when it gets here I plan on making scans of several items and would love to know the detail would remain in the fished carving.
Tom

[Kenm810]

Hi Tom,
We use several deferent sealers and hardeners depending on what the wood is going to used for, and if it will be stained or painted in its finished form. Also we will have to know how deep the wood has to be treated. If the hardener can be just brushed on, dipped in, soaked in, or for the most extreme, submerged in a vacuum bath filled with the hardener, where the air in wood blanks is drawn out as small bubbles by a vacuum pump. When the negative pressure is slowly released, the liquid hardener is drawn back into the wood, filling the voids with resin. Then the wood blanks are allowed to dry. Most of the wood hardeners and sealers were originally manufactured to repair water damaged wood or to prepare rotten or aged wood for wood filling. But like most products, other uses are often thought up for other fields of work. Some of the most common products are.

Minwax&#174; High Performance Wood Hardener's
PC-Petrifier&#174;
Georgia-Pacific Wood Hardener
Bonda Wood Hardener

[pastime106]

Ken,
I appreciate you posting this. I will be sure to give it a try when my probe arrives. I now have a little diffrent way of looking at some future projects I have been thinking about. Many Thanks!

Thanks
Tom

[Gman_Ind]

Ken I was wondering if you noticed if the hardener helps with avoiding chipping out of fine details? and does it take stain?
IE. I had some chipping out of the lettering on the compass carving when I scaled it down.

[Kenm810]

Mike, Most times the hardener also acts as a sealer, I found I could get around this if I mix some of the stain with the hardener and let the mixture soak in deep, I can carve about 1/8" deep with out touching up the stain, if your carving 1/4" or deeper you'll be past the hardener and add stain as you normally do. It will depend on the grain and hardness of the wood. Please try a few test pieces to get a feel for it. Also check on using TransFast powder wood dyes or Aniline alcohol base wood dyes they also mix well with the hardeners

ps. Almost forgot the first part of your question -- yes it dose help, but again -- test pieces first

[Gman_Ind]

Ken, It definatly sounds like a plus for painted projects and stained ones if I plan ahead, sealer and chip protection. I wonder if it would do anything to help MDF? painted not stained of course. Has anyone tried this to harden MDF?

[Kenm810]

Mike,
I have used the hardener on MDF with mixed results; I found that it was necessary to lightly sand it with 220 or 240 grit to scuff the smooth surface. The formaldehyde (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formaldehyde) resins and wax they use to make the Medium Density Fiberboard acts as a light sealer on the surface. They also make a commercial High Density Fiberboard, that is about 3 times the price, and it’s as hard as Phenolic to work with. (The large amounts of dust they both generate is considered a health hazard) It’s a poor photo that I've posted before but this is MDF with hardener being carved.