cutouts using a stl file.

[coolreactions]

So I have had my machine for 6 years now, doesn't got a lot of hours on it, I upgraded the software and purchased the stl file importer. I have designed a beer caddy that I want to simply cut out, what is the best way to do this. The project I have now in draft mode is over 3 hours just for the handle and sides, its just cutouts. Any suggestions would be great.

I used outline patterns then selected cut path and selected 1/8 cutout bit, it is done in half inch wood, but looks like its taking a layer off the top, not much but I need the thickness so it fits together perfect. Also should I have selected flip cutout as it looks too small looking at the parts being cut now.
Thanks
Mike
76450

[blhutchens]

are you importing stl or dxf files?
dxf are 2d and stl are 3d

try deleting the patterns after you outline them.

[coolreactions]

They are stl files, so just having the paths should correct this? and on outside cuts do I need to select flip cutout?
Thanks

[blhutchens]

yes. Outline usually does not give a very clean cut. I usually cut 1/2" in two passes to keep from breaking or burning a bit.

[coolreactions]

Im just doing mdf for beta testing at this point, but if I was running oak would you do more than 2 passes? What I meant but flit cutout does it correct the true outside dimensions, and what about the cutouts in the middle do they stay or do I need to select flip cutout on those as well, seems they would be to big then.

Thanks again.

[fwharris]

For your outside cut outs you probably need to "flip" cut. the inside cut you should probably leave as is. Best way to tell is to zoom in on the board and watch how the cut path changes when you select flip.

If you are just going for the shape and do not need any carving detail the do as Brent stated and delete the pattern after you have made the out lines.

[coolreactions]

Cool, thanks, will give it try after this first one finishes. So on the depth passes, If I use solid oak should I use more than 2 passes and I have some 1/2 inch birch plywood, what would be the best passes for that.
Thank you so much

[fwharris]

Cool, thanks, will give it try after this first one finishes. So on the depth passes, If I use solid oak should I use more than 2 passes and I have some 1/2 inch birch plywood, what would be the best passes for that.
Thank you so much

For oak I would do multiple passes with 0.250 per pass and probably the same with the plywood.

[blhutchens]

there are many variables. I have cut lots of 1/2 birch and oak in two passes. it seems the more passes the better your chances of getting an x slip and the cut out will have a stair step in the x direction.
I have not found the exact reason for this. It can have to do with the complexity of the cut and amount, and direction the strain is on the bit.

[coolreactions]

So the last job just finished but see it did not cut all the way through the 1/2 inch mdf. should I tell it to cut deeper, its just a few hairs short, I also noticed it was not creating the tabs. Well I will test tomorrow with the new settings you have provided, see what happens, I see now it was taking so long, it was running both the project and the paths.

[fwharris]

Are you using the cut path tool or just assigning the bit to the path? If the cut path tool set your tab height higher that the default setting.

[coolreactions]

Maybe that is my problem, If I just select cut path choose the bit in there then I probably don't need to use the select bit correct?, but I still need to put in the depth of the cut under depth box? My tab height is set at 1/8.

[fwharris]

Yes you need to:

Select "cut path" tool

Select the bit you want to use, 1/8" is the default bit

If doing more than one pass, select the "max pass" box and input in the red box the depth you want to use for each pass.

Tab height, 1/8" is the default setting, if you want to insure the piece is held in place got to a higher tab height.

Number of tabs, I usually go with at least 4. With the higher tab height they are less likely to break out.

[coolreactions]

Well I just ran with those settings and failed again, did not create tabs so it jammed the machine, It also is not cutting out the correct sizes, all the holes are too big and and the outline parts are too small. what am I missing here.

[bergerud]

You have to post the stl and/or the mpc for us to figure anything out.

[coolreactions]

I think I may have fixed it, not sure it it is correct way but I set the outside cuts to a -.05 inset and the cutouts to .05 inset. take a look and see if the seems right.

Thanks

[bergerud]

This is from an stl??

[coolreactions]

yes I designed it in SW and exported it to STL

[fwharris]

You have both a bit selection and a cut path assigned to each path so that is why you did not get any tabs.

[coolreactions]

aw now my lines are matching up, so I dont need offset. Ok good to go, will try again tomorrow, thanks for checking, I guess I thought I needed to put the cut depth in somewhere and that was the only spot, I havent used this machine for awhile now, so hopefully I can get if figured out.

Thank you very much.

[fwharris]

That is probably why your size was not correct. the bit assignment was conflicting with the cut path tool.

[coolreactions]

Well everything seemed to cut out fine, the only problem is now it is leaving horrible chatter on the round corners, is this normal, or is that because its mdf? The bit seems sharp as it has not been used that much, but ordered another just in case. I did it in 2 passes so that should of prevented chatter? I did do them at best quality.

Thanks for all the help
76498

[DianMayfield]

I do a lot of MDF. I find that the saw dust melts from the heat of the bit, and leaves a pretty thick layer of crud to be sanded off, particularly on corners.. Is this the chatter you are seeing?

Cool project!

[henry1]

Well everything seemed to cut out fine, the only problem is now it is leaving horrible chatter on the round corners, is this normal, or is that because its mdf? The bit seems sharp as it has not been used that much, but ordered another just in case. I did it in 2 passes so that should of prevented chatter? I did do them at best quality.

Thanks for all the help
76498

were did you get that pattern would like to buy it like it

[fwharris]

Well everything seemed to cut out fine, the only problem is now it is leaving horrible chatter on the round corners, is this normal, or is that because its mdf? The bit seems sharp as it has not been used that much, but ordered another just in case. I did it in 2 passes so that should of prevented chatter? I did do them at best quality.

Thanks for all the help
76498

Real nice project, makes a big difference when seeing it all put together. :)

If your chatter was on wood instead of mdf I would say it is in part the end grain possibly. Is the chatter on all corners?

[coolreactions]

I guess its not really corners, its the rounded edges that seem to be the worst, its pretty heavy chatter, my DIY cnc seems to a better job, but it is not as powerfull and takes alot more passes, should I try adjusting the cutting pass depth?

[coolreactions]

I have designed this and a beer bottle holder just like it, this project was for beer glasses that I'm designing for a brewery. I'm looking into getting them on a site for purchase, can you sell projects on carvewright's web site? I'm still in the development stage I have one more design for wine bottles that I'm currently working on.

[oscarl48]

You can sell projects on the carvewright pattern depot. There is a good assortment of projects in there already. There is a 50-50 split with LHR but they pay for webhosting, licensing software, have a built in audience of buyers and hopefully will help keep them in the black for a long time so they can keep making the carvewright machine and software better and better. I just requested the paperwork to initiate the process of becoming one of their pattern vendors. I am also in the development stage of my first project I want to submit for consideration.

Good luck and good looking beer caddy. Can't wait to see the final product.

Oscar

[coolreactions]

I have a version of my caddy that the ends do not protrude out the sides, so it is like a pocket cut, but the holes are now larger then when I use cutout, I would assume this is due to the bit being angled, is there anyway to do an actual pocket cut with a cutout bit?

[bergerud]

Here is an example of a project with pockets using the 1/8" cutting bit. You cannot tell by looking, but the cutting always starts on the inside and ends going around the perimeter. (That is, start drawing on the inside.)

[coolreactions]

So what your telling me is that I have to create the paths manually? Guess that's not too hard, hopefully I can get it to cut the correct size.

[bergerud]

When you look at the mpc, turn on the snap grid with it set for 1/16" (not 0.063, type 1/16) and you will see how it was done.