Finiashing Qestion.

[NLAlston]

The other day, I completed the construction of a framed stand that I made for a Lithophane that I carved out. This stand was made from Poplar, and (knowing the thirstiness of end grain) I called myself treating it with some Minwax Wood Conditioner. The end result was horrendous, after the application of stain. So much so that I had no recourse but to trash the stand. What is the BEST way to deal with the end grain of wood, when preparing for a good staining?

[fwharris]

I always use a finer grit sandpaper than I do for the flat surfaces. I've never had good luck with the wood conditioner on poplar.

[Duncan]

I use 220 sandpaper on flat surfaces and 320 or finer on the end grain

[NLAlston]

First of all, I don't know how I missed the mistake of how my title had been typed out :), but I could not edit it.

However, I appreciate the input. I had often heard of the benefits offered by 'step-grade' sanding, but had never considered as to how that procedure could effectively deal with end grain issues. It is certainly something for me to give focus to.

[2A Finishing]

First of all, I don't know how I missed the mistake of how my title had been typed out :), but I could not edit it.

However, I appreciate the input. I had often heard of the benefits offered by 'step-grade' sanding, but had never considered as to how that procedure could effectively deal with end grain issues. It is certainly something for me to give focus to.

The idea is to partly burnish the end grain so it doesn't soak in as much conditioner/stain/sealer etc. You don't want to go too far because you still want it to take stain. I usually stop at 320 with the grain, and then end grain I'll take to 400 or 600. I rarely use anything higher than 400 unless I'm doing a build-up finish, but those I'll take all the way to 1200 if I want a particularly fine finish for a special project, and when using those higher grits, I never cut through the finish coat if I can help it.