Looking for a document/tutorial

[zan29]

I have been searching for the document that shows you how to realign the squaring plate with the adjustment pin. Has anyone seen it?
Have no idea what to look for.

Thanks a bunch!
Suzanne

[mtylerfl]

To clarify what Suzanne is requesting. She needs instruction on how to adjust the STATIONARY plate alignment (near the keypad), not the Sliding plate. (The alignment pin had come out of hers and needs to be put back in the correct spot). Supposedly, there is a "document" that describes a procedure to adjust the stationary plate. I don't recall ever seeing a procedure for stationary plate adjustment in any document, but maybe someone here has? Anyway, if you know of a document such as this, please post the link.

[blhutchens]

I have been looking for it......... no such animal.
I thought it may be in the tutorials for belt change/upgrade.
They just say tape it so it stays where it is and no further mention adjusting it.

[bergerud]

All I have never seen is the advice to put a piece of tape on it when removing the squaring plate so the position of the pin is saved. I think you are on your own with this one.

As a first approximation, make it parallel to the two left guide posts. Measure from the guide posts to the edge of the squaring plate (about 1") and adjust until the distances are the same. That should be close.

[mtylerfl]

Thanks, Dan. That seems like it would work alright!

[zan29]

Joe from LHR said there is a document out there but never gave me a link. Dan I will try your method for sure.

[zan29]

Thanks Michael!


To clarify what Suzanne is requesting. She needs instruction on how to adjust the STATIONARY plate alignment (near the keypad), not the Sliding plate. (The alignment pin had come out of hers and needs to be put back in the correct spot). Supposedly, there is a "document" that describes a procedure to adjust the stationary plate. I don't recall ever seeing a procedure for stationary plate adjustment in any document, but maybe someone here has? Anyway, if you know of a document such as this, please post the link.

[bergerud]

One really wants to make sure the squaring plate is parallel to the belt travel. I assume that the belt travel is perpendicular to the y bit travel. I would use a large square to scribe a perpendicular line across a board and then adjust the squaring plate so the bit follows the line.

[zan29]

Will definitely try Dan! Thanks again!


One really wants to make sure the squaring plate is parallel to the belt travel. I assume that the belt travel is perpendicular to the y bit travel. I would use a large square to scribe a perpendicular line across a board and then adjust the squaring plate so the bit follows the line.

[fwharris]

Not really related to the squaring plate, but with the upgrade done the CW web site it is sure harder to find the documents now. The old site/page had them all listed out. Now you have the search and hope your search finds the correct one.

[SteveNelson46]

I have been searching for the document that shows you how to realign the squaring plate with the adjustment pin. Has anyone seen it?
Have no idea what to look for.

Thanks a bunch!
Suzanne

I haven't seen any documents that explain how to align the squaring plate to the belts but, here is how I did it. Insert a short thin strip of wood that is even in thickness (I used a paint stir stick) between the infeed table and the belt with the top edge above the surface of the belt. Make sure you hold it tightly against the belt and belt roller (you could use a couple of small wooden wedges) while holding the short side of a small square against the strip of wood. Slide the square over to the squaring plate to check for alignment. This checks the alignment of the squaring plate with the belt roller.

I don't know if this is the official way to do it but, it seems to work.

[zan29]

You're right about that Floyd!


Not really related to the squaring plate, but with the upgrade done the CW web site it is sure harder to find the documents now. The old site/page had them all listed out. Now you have the search and hope your search finds the correct one.

[Mike1]

Floyd, same here. It wasn't broke so why did they try to fix it!

[lynnfrwd]

Not 100% sure, but was it this one? http://support.carvewright.com/re-calibrate-machine/


I heard him mention re-calibrating the machine.

I put calibrate in the search bar.

(I'm having trouble getting use to it, too!)

[zan29]

Connie this is for calibrating the offsets. Nothing to do with the squaring plate.


Not 100% sure, but was it this one? http://support.carvewright.com/re-calibrate-machine/


I heard him mention re-calibrating the machine.

I put calibrate in the search bar.

(I'm having trouble getting use to it, too!)

[lynnfrwd]

The video and manual on the CO2 Dragster jig for schools has some information on using the jig to recalibrate the squaring plate. Since you don't have the jig, you would have to modify these instructions a little. We use a machine and computer to calibrate here. I'm told most machine squaring plate dials should be in the middle.

Go to www.carvewright.com under SUPPORT > BROWSE TOPICS > search for Dragster

[bergerud]

This must be what Connie is referring to:

http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Manuals/CO2_dragster_manual.pdf

[lynnfrwd]

There is also a video.

[bergerud]

Right. Squaring the jig starts at about 2.10 into the video.

http://support.carvewright.com/carvewright-racing-system-dragster-series-instructional-video/

[zan29]

Thank you Dan and Connie! Really appreciate.


The video and manual on the CO2 Dragster jig for schools has some information on using the jig to recalibrate the squaring plate. Since you don't have the jig, you would have to modify these instructions a little. We use a machine and computer to calibrate here. I'm told most machine squaring plate dials should be in the middle.

Go to www.carvewright.com (http://www.carvewright.com) under SUPPORT > BROWSE TOPICS > search for Dragster

[bergerud]

Let us know what you do to square the plate and if it solves your tracking problem.

[zan29]

Will do for sure!


Let us know what you do to square the plate and if it solves your tracking problem.

[SteveNelson46]

After watching the video for the CO2 dragster squaring plate alignment procedure it gave me an idea. Why couldn't one just use a wide board that has parallel sides with notches on each side to get the same results. Of course the notches would have to be exactly parallel. I guess you could even get the Designer to cut the notches and then use a square to see if they are parallel. Assuming the squaring plate isn't off by much.

[lynnfrwd]

We don't suggest a bunch of people messing with their squaring plates. You may cause more problems than you fix.

[blhutchens]

After watching the video for the CO2 dragster squaring plate alignment procedure it gave me an idea. Why couldn't one just use a wide board that has parallel sides with notches on each side to get the same results. Of course the notches would have to be exactly parallel. I guess you could even get the Designer to cut the notches and then use a square to see if they are parallel. Assuming the squaring plate isn't off by much.

why not just do a shallow cut across the board and check it with a square

[bergerud]

We don't suggest a bunch of people messing with their squaring plates. You may cause more problems than you fix.

For the racing car jig, it is important for the y axis to be parallel to the jig axis. For us, it is important to have the board run back and forth in the x and stay parallel to the squaring plate. I am not sure these two things are the same.

So, if it ain't broke, maybe it should not be fixed!

[blhutchens]

For the racing car jig, it is important for the y axis to be parallel to the jig axis. For us, it is important to have the board run back and forth in the x and stay parallel to the squaring plate. I am not sure these two things are the same.

So, if it ain't broke, maybe it should not be fixed!


I agree. I usually have enough to muck with without creating something else.

[zan29]

I only wish I didn't have to mess with the squaring plate. That little adjustment pin disappear in the vacuum I assume or with the air compressor. I will tape it down from now on.

[lynnfrwd]

I agree. I usually have enough to muck with without creating something else.


OFF TOPIC: BL...I saw your photo and thought it was Floyd (fwharris) without his hat on!

[blhutchens]

OFF TOPIC: BL...I saw your photo and thought it was Floyd (fwharris) without his hat on!

I resemble that. I will take that as a compliment. Thank You!

[fwharris]

OFF TOPIC: BL...I saw your photo and thought it was Floyd (fwharris) without his hat on!

Twin brothers of different mothers! :)

[bergerud]

One more and you will have a rock band!

[zan29]

Well I tried everything that was mentioned, assuming I had a perfect 90 deg. angle with the squaring plate. First try, this is what I get....ovals instead of circles and bad cutouts.
I'm really wondering if it has anything to do with the squaring plate.
764627646376464

[bergerud]

That all just looks like the same old tracking problems. If the squaring plate is not causing binding, I would agree, it is not caused by the squaring plate.

You know my theory is that bad tracking is caused by vibration. The shifts seem to occur when the cutting is close to the brass roller. If this is correct, the following things should help:

1. Layers of masking tape under the board edge to dampen the transfer of vibration to the brass roller.

2. Keeping cutouts away from the left edge of the board.

3. Making shallow passes with a sharp bit.

4. Using a Carrier Base.

Some machines seem to be worse than others. Since yours seems to be bad, you should do some experiments to test my theory!

(I do not recall if you were asked this before, but do you have the rubber damper under the brass roller assembly? Is the brass roller being pressed hard against the bottom of the board? Do you see tracking marks on the bottom of the board?)

[zan29]

I do have the rubber damper, use tape each time with visible tracking marks. Your carrier is my last resort but I must admit, I'm still intimidated by it.

[bergerud]

Did you install the rubber belts? If so, is the washer spacer under the rubber damper?

See step 26: http://www.carvewright.com/assets/service/Service_instructions/CarveWright_service_replace_rubber_drive_belt.pdf

[zan29]

I purchased the machine with the rubber belts on. I did removed them to realign the belt itself a while back. I'll have to check for that spacer.

[bergerud]

If you purchased the machine with the rubber belts, it must be there.

[mtylerfl]

I purchased the machine with the rubber belts on. I did removed them to realign the belt itself a while back. I'll have to check for that spacer.

I think you already did...when we were Skyping awhile back, this was one of the things I mentioned to check. Anyway...it won't hurt to check again! I still "feel" this is a simple problem to correct - I have this nagging that you've just missed something during all the checks, etc. I am so sorry this problem has lingered so long for you!

[zan29]

You're probably right Michael!

[bergerud]

Maybe you could try a new board tracking sensor. I wonder if Henry or Roger might have one to try.

[RogerB]

Sorry don't have that part.

[zan29]

it's brand new, changed it when the problem started.


Maybe you could try a new board tracking sensor. I wonder if Henry or Roger might have one to try.

[bergerud]

Well, maybe there is nothing wrong with your machine. I have had the same problem since day one. Sometimes it would happen, other times it would not. Many others on the forum have the same problem as well. It could just be a "resonance" problem with the machine design. Just the right frequency vibration and the brass roller encoder loses its mind. It does seem a fickle problem. Just the right rpm, cut rate, head pressure, board hardness, ... and it happens. Change one of the parameters and it is ok again.

It would be nice to know if resonance is the problem. Then we could take countermeasures. For example, one could loosely tape a "tracking" rail to the keypad side of the board.

[zan29]

Does your compression rollers have a bit of resistance when you turn them by hand??

[bergerud]

Does your compression rollers have a bit of resistance when you turn them by hand??

Not really. They roll fairly easily. I did take them out, cleaned, and greased up the bushings awhile ago. I think they would have to be pretty bad to cause a problem. Worth a try though.

[zan29]

What type of lubricant did you use?

[bergerud]

I just used some light moly grease. I do not think it matters too much.

[mtylerfl]

That's a good idea regarding checking/lubing the pressure rollers - I hadn't thought of that at all. They should turn freely. Whenever possible, I try to stay away from any lubes/grease that might act as a "dust magnet". If you carve a lot of MDF, the nasty, nasty fine dust can gum-up the works fairly quickly if using grease-type lubes.

My latest favorite lube (for anything other than the flexshaft core) is a dry lube called DynaGlide Plus. I may have posted this before, but the photo below shows what I now use for lubing bearings, all the rails, the hinge point of the bit plate and the four corner posts. I even spray some on the cutting flutes (not the shafts!) of my bits - they claim it makes them last and stay sharper longer. I honestly don't know if that's true or not. Anyway, I give the posts and rails a quick squirt with this stuff before each project. It contains no Silicon nor Teflon - beats me how it can even work, but boy, it sure does! I use it for all sorts of things around the house, too. Unfortunately, it is not cheap...about $20 per spray can. But, fortunately, a little goes a long way so each can should last us for a few months, at least.

Here's the link to MicroFence where I purchase mine from: http://microfence.com/dynaglide-lube-spraybrbbuy-seperately-caseb-p-81.html

[zan29]

I have some so should I remove the rollers or just spray by the rubber washer??

[mtylerfl]

I have some so should I remove the rollers or just spray by the rubber washer??

If there is "crud" preventing the bearings from allowing the rollers to roll freely, then you'll want to clean them first. Probably will involve removing the rollers to do that. I've never removed the rollers and don't know how involved (or not) that is. Dan said he removed his and I'm sure AL has done so too - seems I've seen a post or two with photos. Perhaps Dan or AL can chime in with some tips for you.

[zan29]

I GOT IT!!!!! Here's what happened. Michael told me to remove the o'ring from the board sensor a while, which I did, but since my squaring plate wasn't aligned properly (didn't know), it didn't make much difference so I put it back on. Today I tried turning the board sensor manually and thought there was too much resistance so I remove the o'ring again and there was the problem. Misaligned squaring plate and board sensor touching the rubber belt. My test was A OK! Will try it again tomorrow and hopefully I'll get the same results.
Thanks to all you for your help and suggestions.

Suzanne

[bergerud]

I hope that you have found the problem, but I have my doubts. If the brass roller is rubbing on the belt it screws up carving as well as cutting. I would think that your playing with the squaring plate is the reason the roller now rubs. Loosen the squaring plate screws and push it toward the back of the machine.

Push the brass roller down like a board would to really make sure it does not hit the belt.

[zan29]

That's what I did Dan and it was still touching. I haven't tried anything rectangular yet so the problem might still be there.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Ever look at a car tire and see the bulge.... I believe when the rubber belts have a board cranked down the belts bulge at the point where they round over the roller and "intermittently" touch the Brass Roller and cause very confusing problems...... Remember the brass roller is the INPUT to the computer telling it the board's position and the bulging rubber belt touching the brass roller is like someone tickling you as you try to sign a check...

Try making the mounting holes for the brass roller bigger so you can position the brass roller more CENTERED between the belts...

AL

[zan29]

Can you give me more details AL please?


Ever look at a car tire and see the bulge.... I believe when the rubber belts have a board cranked down the belts bulge at the point where they round over the roller and "intermittently" touch the Brass Roller and cause very confusing problems...... Remember the brass roller is the INPUT to the computer telling it the board's position and the bulging rubber belt touching the brass roller is like someone tickling you as you try to sign a check...

Try making the mounting holes for the brass roller bigger so you can position the brass roller more CENTERED between the belts...

AL