Red Oak Sign Making Methods

[michaeldove]

I have started making signs out of red oak (really good deal for the oak) but I'm not the best at finishing. I get a good product out of the machine then I screw the finish up.

Here's my process.
I put a piece of cabinet paper over my red oak and carved out the (narrow) lettering. I sprayed the lettering white and then removed the cabinet paper. I brushed on 2 coats of shellac and hand sanded with 320. I brushed on a 3rd coat and let it sit overnight. Today the finish looks horrible...to the point of a recarve. I can see cliffs and swirls in the finish and my lettering looks like the white was eaten away. I'm not sure if the shellac was the best way to go or if I should have thinned it, used a rag instead of the brush, used wood filler first, etc,.....

Obviously, I'm a not a professional--I am just looking for some good advice. If anyone has any "Tried-and-True Methods" for red oak sign making can you please share them? A lot of what I read in the other forums seems to be a "one size fits all" finishing process that doesn't work for me...but then again it may be my inexperience that's messing it up.

Thanks in advance for any help I get.

[DickB]

A picture would help.

[dehrlich]

I use a lot of oak, here are my suggestions where you may be going wrong. First, there is no need to use the cabinet paper unless you are stuck on using spray paint. What I do is carve as usual. Apply your shellac or sanding sealer (spray works best), then paint the lettering by hand using enamel or acrylic paint, be as neat as possible. After the paint dries good, start sanding with 80 grit paper, or if you have a planer you can take as little as a 64th off and it will clean up nicely. Continue sanding 80, 120, 150 at the finest. Then stain if desired, make sure all the stain gets out of the lettering... let dry over night. Now put on your finish coats, sanding in between if needed. You should get a good result.

Another old trick to get a smooth finish... if you have little bumps from dust nubs after your finish dries, use some brown paper bag and go over it. The paper is just abrasive enough to smooth the nubs but not scratch the finish.

AS for trouble shooting... I would say your paint doesn't like the shellac. Also the paper is probably leaving a film that is keeping the shellac from sticking. Hope this helps!

[Old Salt]

I don't like red oak for painting any color because it is open grain it will wick on you . I would us white oak it is a closed gran and wont wick as bad when panted. Use the same finish for sealer but thin 50% with thinner says on can. Hope this helps.

Gary

[cjudas]

I have used red oak a bit. If you put a thin coat of poly on BEFORE you paint it won't wick and if you drip you can wipe it off if you're quick.

[unitedcases]

When I have a project for painted letters, and that's all I paint. I have nor the patience or time for the amazing artwork I see on here. I use stencil paper. About 30 bucks a roll. I seal whatever I am carving. And I'm not to particular about what I use. Generally for this step I'll use lacquer just because it dries so quick. Then carve the letters. While the stencil film is still on I will use spray ink for the letters. Dries fast. Thin coats. And patience.