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aokweld101
02-21-2015, 05:07 PM
I was out in the shop doing a rotary lithophane and was haveing a ERROR message... I tried to move the truck side to side, with the machine off, missed with the tentioner and it was still hard to move I know that it should be easier but it was tight.. I spayed wd 40 and it loosened up some but it is still tight I have 750 hrs. on it...do I need to change the rollers
ers?

bergerud
02-21-2015, 05:22 PM
Is it the rollers? Take off the belt and see if it is still hard to move.

aokweld101
02-21-2015, 06:36 PM
I'll do that in the morning, It wore me out today...it won the battle but not the war...lol

aokweld101
02-21-2015, 07:04 PM
Is there a tutorial on how to change the y rollers ?

bergerud
02-21-2015, 07:27 PM
http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#replace_bearings

Coming soon!!

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 04:46 PM
I've been out trying to get to rotary jig running it get to the point to where you push keep and it goes into calibration and ca'nt get out of it.. i have to be doing wrong.

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 04:48 PM
it keeps doing a y axes stall on the rotary but I'm doing a flat lithophane now with no stalls..

bergerud
02-22-2015, 04:56 PM
Post the rotary mpc you are trying to carve and describe push by push how you start the carve.

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 05:04 PM
this is what I'm trying. I have to get my notes out of the shop.

bergerud
02-22-2015, 05:13 PM
The mpc is for a 3" dowel. Is not a 3" pipe is really 3.5"? (Also there is a little curve for the 1/8" cutting bit that you should delete.)

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 05:49 PM
the 1/8 carving bit is for the cord to come though. I'm useing a wooden base

fwharris
02-22-2015, 05:52 PM
the 1/8 carving bit is for the cord to come though.

I would just drill it out after you get the carve done.

bergerud
02-22-2015, 05:55 PM
the 1/8 carving bit is for the cord to come though.

You will be breaking new ground doing vector cuts (or mult-bit rotary projects) with the rotary. Is on my list of things to try. (If you do try it, use the er11 and a short 1/8" bit.)

bergerud
02-22-2015, 05:59 PM
What about the diameter being wrong? Does that not explain the machine's behavior with the y stall?

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 06:00 PM
I'm breaking new ground... I can't get the darn thing running...lol

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 06:02 PM
What about the diameter being wrong? Does that not explain the machine's behavior with the y stall?
I do'nt know it might, I rewrote it and have to see tommorrow

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 06:16 PM
Here's the order on the buttons: press o; press 6 ; press 7; press enter after rotating three times.. line up mark on material; press enter; press keep and this is when set calibration comes up.

bergerud
02-22-2015, 06:22 PM
I think you just have to press stop twice after the calibration to get back to the project menu.

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 06:28 PM
So after it turns three times press stop, two times?

bergerud
02-22-2015, 07:04 PM
After you press keep, the calibration menu returns to the start (in case you want to run it again). To get out of there and back to the project menu, press stop twice.

Actually, calibration for your project is not really important anyway. Calibration is important so a full 360 degree carve meets itself properly. You are only putting a picture on part of the round. You could save figuring out the calibration part of the procedure for later and just get on with your first carve.

aokweld101
02-22-2015, 07:40 PM
Thank you Dan for the details.. first thing in the morning, I took the pipe and changed the size from 3. to 3.5 and will put in the two stops... lol

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 11:06 AM
well I started on it again, I have gotten farther on the rotary this time I done the to where it goes and past the pattern, pick the patern and bit...load bit and get a stall...just before it's to carve.

bergerud
02-23-2015, 11:13 AM
When, exactly does it stall? Touching the jig or the pipe?

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 11:16 AM
the jig, just before it finds itself to carve

bergerud
02-23-2015, 01:29 PM
What bit did you choose in Designer and what bit did you put in the machine?

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 03:17 PM
I started to run the project after your last post Dan, And the machine said skipped X so rotated the X up and down and low and behold I was missnig one tooth on the belt. I changed the belt for the first time and it was'nt easy....I have the machine running my first rotary lithopane...Also found out it is easier Just to go from the pattern list as long as the patterns do'nt meet and need the calibration.

mtylerfl
02-23-2015, 03:20 PM
I started to run the project after your last post Dan, And the machine said skipped X so rotated the X up and down and low and behold I was missnig one tooth on the belt. I changed the belt for the first time and it was'nt easy....I have the machine running my first rotary lithopane...Also found out it is easier Just to go from the pattern list as long as the patterns do'nt meet and need the calibration.

Up/down is "Z" not "X".

"X" is the axis your board is fed through the machine with the belts. (or rotation of the rotary)

So, do you mean you rotated the piece and a tooth is/was missing on the rotary belt? (and you had an extra on hand?)

Good to hear you've got it running now!

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 03:27 PM
I told Dan that I had a Time trying to remember that I told him that I had to think of the Karate kid as a refrence.... Y... side-side.....Z-up-down...

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 03:33 PM
I had to stop the rotary litho' it is going through the pipe, I had the depth set at .180 and height at 450 ...any suggestions?

bergerud
02-23-2015, 04:37 PM
This seems to be a common problem. Did you measure the pipe diameter? Is it really 3.5" exactly?

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 05:42 PM
I measured the with outside diameter.. .351...the thickness of the wall... .233 I made the depth .90 and height a 450 and see what I have in a couple more hours.

mtylerfl
02-23-2015, 06:52 PM
The 3.5" diameter setting is fine - it's close enough.

However, I think the overall layout itself is what is causing you problems. The part off leaves quite a deep valley around the top and bottom. There is a "hard edge" around the photo and it could have used a slight cropping at the left side, too. (I would have likely used a photo editing program to fade out the edges all around the photo, prior to converting it to a ptn, but that's a matter of personal taste.)

I took the liberty of modifying your MPC. Try it if you like - I think it will carve very well and without problems. The feather around the photo is slightly irregular, but still will yield a nice appearance when backlit. I believe you will be happy with the result.

Here's what I did for the modifications (in case you don't have Designer 3 which is what I used for this):

• Changed the Part Off diameter to be the same as the pipe diameter (3.5")


• Created a Carve Region the same Depth as Nina (0.170") with a .25" feather


• Made the Nina ptn "Clip Carving: Inclusive" and "Merge: Additive", and removed the feather


• Deleted the cord hole area...worried that would invite trouble. Just drill a hole afterwards, like Floyd suggested.

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 07:27 PM
I want thank Dan and Mtylerfl for helping me I still have one turning in the jig, I'm interested in how it turns out I do'nt think I'm deep enough, we will see soon ..It's been a few trying days I think it's testing me and my patients..

aokweld101
02-23-2015, 08:09 PM
I have all the bells and whistles with my carvewright all the software that they have to offer Except the sculptor I have programs that I still need to learn...

aokweld101
02-24-2015, 07:06 AM
I'm having my problems again, I done a different different picture and when I push inclusive, merge add, the picture dissapears

blhutchens
02-24-2015, 07:59 AM
I extracted the pattern and selected it and put it on the project and it worked. I don't know why.

mtylerfl
02-24-2015, 08:01 AM
I'm having my problems again, I done a different different picture and when I push inclusive, merge add, the picture dissapears

It disappears because there is nothing for the Clip Inclusive to interact with! Turn that off. (You can also turn off Additive Merge since there is nothing there for that to interact with either.)

Also, set your Part Off to the same diameter as the pipe to avoid those deep valleys at the top and bottom. (You currently have the Part Off set to 2.5"...change it to 3.5")

mtylerfl
02-24-2015, 08:56 AM
I extracted the pattern and selected it and put it on the project and it worked. I don't know why.

It worked because when you did that, the Clip Inclusive was automatically removed.

You don't use the Clip features on just a single item...you need two or more items overlapping for Clip features to work properly. I can't recall if I ever wrote a tutorial about that or not. (If not, I should have.)

aokweld101
02-24-2015, 05:10 PM
I did the pattern mtylerfl and the carve went through the pipe. So I went with what I knew was going on with the machine I did my one pattren at .120 and it went through the board... second one I did at .90 and it was dark but you could see it.... sooo.. on the last one I did at .100 and it turned out purdy.. it is show room quaity... I would recommend the rotary jig to any one tha has a carvewright !!

aokweld101
02-24-2015, 05:24 PM
I'm doing another one and did as you said and cleaned it up. if you see something I'm doing wrong please tell me

aokweld101
02-24-2015, 05:31 PM
I see with this file I need to go with the 1/32 bit and optomation at best..

mtylerfl
02-25-2015, 07:02 AM
I did the pattern mtylerfl and the carve went through the pipe. So I went with what I knew was going on with the machine I did my one pattren at .120 and it went through the board... second one I did at .90 and it was dark but you could see it.... sooo.. on the last one I did at .100 and it turned out purdy.. it is show room quaity... I would recommend the rotary jig to any one tha has a carvewright !!

Just to confirm...you ran that mpc exactly as I laid it out, yes??

I want to see a photo of that where it went through. There is no area on the project that would allow the bit to go through that pipe wall. There is something else going on for sure.

Please post a photo (or two or three) so I can see exactly what happened. Word descriptions are no longer any help...need photos.

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 10:16 AM
I think the only thing I changed was the cut off at 2.5 I do'nt have the file no more.

mtylerfl
02-25-2015, 10:22 AM
I think the only thing I changed was the cut off at 2.5 I do'nt have the file no more.

Ok, I believe I mentioned to keep the Part Off the same as the diameter of the pipe (3.5") to avoid the deep valleys at the top and bottom. This could have thrown off your Z (and/or could have created a z-stall) with those deep valleys. The whole idea of the procedure and sample MPC was to set up the project so the bit "flows" much more gently over the pipe so you would avoid problems. So, I think the test was spoiled by using the 2.5" setting you decided upon.

Otherwise, I don't see how it was possible to not carve that successfully if you followed the directions exactly.

I still want to see photos!! Please post some as soon as you can.

EDIT: It just occurred to me to ask...Did the bit cut through the pipe at the 2.5" Part Off area? if so, then all the more reason to keep the 3.5 setting as I mentioned before to avoid the deep plunges of the bit! I'm starting to do a lot of guessing. Photos, please.

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 12:38 PM
I need to get batteries for my camera, But it did'nt go through the edges it went through at the center of pattern pretty much from border to border

mtylerfl
02-25-2015, 03:08 PM
I need to get batteries for my camera, But it did'nt go through the edges it went through at the center of pattern pretty much from border to border

Very strange, indeed. You are using the CarveTight chuck and the standard CarveWright 1/16" tapered ball nose bit, right?

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 05:00 PM
I checked the old pipe and it was through the pipe at about 1" in from the edge of the cut off I've been using the 1/32 bit and the newer chuck.

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 06:45 PM
Yes, I was using the 1/32 carving bit. That might be the problem... I did'nt think of it.. On the one I'm doing now The settings on the carve region is .100 and .108 for the pattern.

bergerud
02-25-2015, 06:49 PM
Sorry, but I think I am wrong on that. The 1/16" bit goes down in the centering slot as well. The 1/8" bit that I usually use does not and that was what I was remembering. Now I wonder about this.

Sorry, I deleted my post after you read it!

bergerud
02-25-2015, 07:17 PM
I just measured how far the 1/16" carving bit drops into the centering slot. I got 0.032". That could be significant if one is cutting things close. I assume that everyone carving rotary lithos is using the standard 1/16" carving bit and so this may be something to consider.

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 07:41 PM
So, if I'm doing my math right normal settings for a litho are .180 depth and 450 height leaving .07 material left so should I try to make sure that leave .07 thickness left?

bergerud
02-25-2015, 07:56 PM
If the normal depth is 0.180 then you should change it to 0.180 - 0.032 = 0.148 since the machine will carve it 0.032 deeper and you will actually get 0.180.

(This is assuming that the centering slot on your machine is the same as the one on mine.)

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 08:01 PM
I had my settings today mostly by trial and error. mostly error.. I started out with my pipe at 3.51 O.D. the thickness of the pipe was .233... I ended up making the depth at .109 and the region at .100 which leaves .071 on the thickness left and .08 on the region. I might add that I did it at .120 depth and went through the wall of the pipe.

bergerud
02-25-2015, 08:25 PM
I might add that I did it at .120 depth and went through the wall of the pipe.

I guess there is something else also going on as well. How true does the pipe spin on the jig? How did you make the pipe holders? Did you use a lathe? Like, Michael, I would like to see some pictures of the setup.

You know, you could use the z encoder data to actually measure the depths. Put the bit at the touch position on the jig and turn on the machine. Choose 0 - 7 down arrow to y and z data. The data will read 0.000. Now move the truck over and touch on the pipe. The center of the jig is 1.75 below the touch. If the pipe in 3.5 in diameter, the z should also read 0.000 on the pipe. (Also, spin the pipe around taking readings to see how true it is.) Maybe you can figure out what is not measuring up.

aokweld101
02-25-2015, 08:42 PM
I should know that being around machinist for 34 yrs. but I did'nt think of it at the time... I'm a welder what could a couple of thousand mean any way...lol..:lol:

aokweld101
02-27-2015, 11:00 AM
Dan, I checked the z height and touched it to the jig plate and zero'ed it out moved it over to the pipe and read .041 moved it back to the the jig fixture and thouched it and read .011 and is staying constistant at .011-jig...pipe at .041 I 'm useing the drain plug that Mike suggested in his post for centering. so how do I set the depth?

bergerud
02-27-2015, 11:17 AM
How is the pipe for being out of round? Maybe you could put the jig up on blocks (so it will rotate) and use the z data to check the out of round. If it is out of round by too much, you will not be able to make a decent litho.

aokweld101
02-27-2015, 02:31 PM
Dan, the majic number was .112 for the region and .112 for the pattern it if I went any deeper it would go throught the pipe..next one I'm doing is .109 for the region and .113 for the pattern try to get the picture just a little bit lighter.

bergerud
02-27-2015, 03:24 PM
If the pipe does not spin true, it will be a crap shoot. Someday I want to try these things.