Help with Parker's Place

[Sliverfoot]

I have been working on this sign for my grandson's room. What I wanted to do was bring in the "cute" animals using clip art that I found on line. I've been spending hours in Pattern Editor trying to clean some of the noisy ones up. Some clean up alright and some not so much but I'm still working on them. What I really want to do is have the animals come out off the sign board but all I seem to be able to get when I put them in place is that the outlines of the animals are carved in the board. Did I explain that right?
I'd really appreciate someone looking at this, maybe I can't do what I want but if there is a way I'd like to know how, for this sign and future projects.
I'm using 3.0.
Thanks

[bergerud]

You should post the clip art so others can try their hand at making patterns.

[lynnfrwd]

In order for any pattern to stand up off the wood, you have to carve wood away. Draw a rectangle around the region and add carve region.

[Sliverfoot]

Oops sorry I should have thought of that. Here are some of the ones that I've thought of using, I have my favorites but really like them all. I appreciate anyone looking at them, maybe some (or all) can't be used the way I've envisioned but if you have suggestions I'm all ears. I'd like to be able to paint them all differently so that they really pop.

[Sliverfoot]

Not sure what you mean. isn't that what I have? the area were the figures are is carved down .250.

[DianMayfield]

What she means is that behind your characters, there needs to be a carve region..I don't have 3, so I couldn't open yours, but attached is an owl I have. If you like it I will clean up the eyes so they don't pop up so much.
7390273903

[Sliverfoot]

So what she means is select the owl, or what ever other animal, and then assign it as a carve region?
Yea, like your owl.

[bergerud]

This was the perfect job for the Shadermap program. I can post grey scales if you feel you would like to further edit. (That was fun.)

Designer 3.0 file

[DianMayfield]

I believe that when you drag a pattern onto your project, it defaults to .25. That's what I see. Since your characters are all line art, I am not sure what will happen. Mine started as a colored image, I converted to gray scale, then tweeked the grays so it created the different levels in the carve. The eyes in this one should be better.

739067390773908

[Sliverfoot]

That's Awesome! It's just what I was trying to do.
If you post the grey scales will I be able to work with them if I don't have Shadermap?
I would love to hear more about the program and know what I can do in the future if I run into this again, but right now I have to sign off for a few hours and help my son with something. I'll check back later and hopefully you'll be on.
Thank you very much.

[DianMayfield]

I downloaded the Shadermap demo last week, just haven't had much of a chance to play with it. At 40 bucks it is a bargain as far as software goes :)

[bergerud]

With the grey scales, you can import them into Designer, PE, or Sculptor and play with them as if they were your own patterns. You can also use other software as well. (Note that you have to save these as .png and then import them to preserve the transparent background. Copy image will work but will create an unwanted background.)

[aokweld101]

I know this is going off this particular post. but if I was wanting to make a bank out of the hippo pattern and make it 2.25 thick how would I make a stl to slice it. I know we had talked about it before I just can't get a handle on it.

[bergerud]

I know this is going off this particular post. but if I was wanting to make a bank out of the hippo pattern and make it 2.25 thick how would I make a stl to slice it. I know we had talked about it before I just can't get a handle on it.

First, I do not think the hippo clip art pattern is good enough to make a 3d object from.

Second, the "make an STL to slice from a pattern" exercise we have gotten into a few times is really only an academic exercise which is not really of any practical use. The slicing of STL's is a way to take something already created and make patterns out of it. If you have a pattern already, there is no need to make an STL. It would be just going around in a loop. Creating STL's is something I think one would do only as a way to export Designer creations into other CNC software.

If you want to make a hippo bank, just use a (better) hippo pattern to make a double sided carve. If you can find a hippo STL, you could slice it to make the hippo pattern.

I hope that I am making some sense!

[bjbethke]

Oops sorry I should have thought of that. Here are some of the ones that I've thought of using, I have my favorites but really like them all. I appreciate anyone looking at them, maybe some (or all) can't be used the way I've envisioned but if you have suggestions I'm all ears. I'd like to be able to paint them all differently so that they really pop.

Hi; Welcome to this Forum, I find a good way to clean the trash on your line drawing image is to convert it into a Vector image. I use a program called "Vector Magic" - Clean Line drawings work great in a program called "ShaderMap Pro". This gives you a grayscale image that works the "Z" Truck in the CW Unit.

[bjbethke]

[QUOTE=DianMayfield;240863]I downloaded the Shadermap demo last week,

aokweld101; I used the Hippo image to make the STL file, it is 25MB in size, If you would like the STL send me a "PM" with your e-mail; I can send it to you if your computer has enough Bandwidth.

Hi, I posted a PDF on how I use the ShaderMap Pro-2 program about a week ago. Did you know you can use the Grayscale images to make a STL file with a program called "MicroCarve 4.0"

[bergerud]

Both Pattern Editor and Sculptor can export STL meshes. I have tried to come up with a good reason to do this and I cannot. It seems to me that this is a way to export out of the CW system and is not of much use inside the CW system.

[Sliverfoot]

You say grey scales. Does pattern editor allow me to play with the grey scales? I've used to clean up the noise on some of patterns that I've imported but never seen anything that allows me to change grey scales.

[bergerud]

Grey scales refers to height map files. They could be .png, .jpeg, .bmp, .gif, ... You can import these file types into the PE (File - Import - Import Image File) and edit and make your own patterns from them. If I gave you .ptn files, you would not be able to edit them. Designer would say you do not own them. This way, you own the patterns you make from the height map files and are free to do whatever you like with them.

[Sliverfoot]

I've used the grey scale images that you posted for me and imported them into designer then sent them to editor, but the image that I get there is no where near as clear as what you've put on my Parkers Place board.
I love the sign, and I don't think I'd change a thing, I'm just trying to learn for the future.
I tried to upload the file and I received a message that one of the carves was hidden, or has zero depth. ?

[bergerud]

I do not understand why the patterns would be any different. Did you chose bit optimization best for the patterns on the board?

The hidden pattern is the penguin. I did not like it but left it on the board anyway. If you go to View - Toolbars - Carving list, you will see it in the list.

[Sliverfoot]

73955The patterns that you posted were great!
I've put them on a different board and they are just as clear. I guess my question was a dumb one. I thought that if I took those grey images and put them in editor I could adjust the grey scale , or depths, but when I put them in editor especially the giraffe, the image (in editor) is poor. I was just trying experiment with a grey image in editor. Guess I don't understand grey scale or editor.

Regarding the hidden pattern, I see what you mean. I deleted it.

My supervising editor (wife) asked me to move around some of the patterns so here is what the revised patter looks like.
When I uploaded it I got 3 warnings.
1 Wide cuts across the width may interfere with the compression rollers.
2 cut throughs on the top edge will not be completed in order to avoid interference with the roller.
3 cut throughs along the far left edge may break cutting bits due to board leaving auxiliary roller.
I increased the thickness of my board from .5 to .75. My pattern is 30x 12 and I plan on using a board at least 37x 13 (maybe 13.75). That should eliminate any problems shouldn't it?
( Wow long carve time)

[bergerud]

Looks pretty good. Some extra animals around! I changed the maximum pass depth for the cutouts. Most of use do cutouts in a few passes.

As long as your board is 7 in. longer than the pattern and 13 in. wide you should be good. Choose center on board.

Cannot wait to see it!

[Sliverfoot]

Thank you.
May not get around to running this until next weekend. Workweek and all that stuff ya know. I'll keep you posted

[henry1]

Looks pretty good. Some extra animals around! I changed the maximum pass depth for the cutouts. Most of use do cutouts in a few passes.

As long as your board is 7 in. longer than the pattern and 13 in. wide you should be good. Choose center on board.

Cannot wait to see it!
Well bergerud if a .187 or 2.07 posted would help thx

[bergerud]

Sorry Henry, the original mpc was 3 otherwise I would have done it in 1.187.

[Sliverfoot]

Ok
Ran the pattern today, the carved regions turned out great. I used Aspen, its ok probably should have used a harder wood to get more detail
BUT after an 11 hour carve of the pattern it was time to change bit to the 1/8 cutting. I changed bits hit enter and heard a snap, the cutting bit broke and I got a a z axis error.
What did I do wrong??
I'll do another run of the carve but I have to wait till I get another bit, And I don't want it to happen again.
I did change the board thickness from .5 to .75 but I did that to the pattern before uploading it to the card.

[henry1]

Ok
Ran the pattern today, the carved regions turned out great. I used Aspen, its ok probably should have used a harder wood to get more detail
BUT after an 11 hour carve of the pattern it was time to change bit to the 1/8 cutting. I changed bits hit enter and heard a snap, the cutting bit broke and I got a a z axis error.
What did I do wrong??
I'll do another run of the carve but I have to wait till I get another bit, And I don't want it to happen again.
I did change the board thickness from .5 to .75 but I did that to the pattern before uploading it to the card.
did you tell it to cut 0.250 per pass like burgarud told you

[Sliverfoot]

It was set at .260.

[bergerud]

Too bad. When did it break? Did it start cutting? Did the motor spin up? Could you post a picture?

[Sliverfoot]

It asked for the change of bit, which I did. It didn't cut at all.
I don't think the motor even spun up. I actually didn't even realize what happened, I heard the snap noise as the pattern moved through the machine and saw the error message, and then I saw the bit pieces laying on the pattern.
Couldn't have been changing the board thickness could it? it was done before the file was uploaded to the card and all of the caving went fine.

[bergerud]

If the motor did not spin up, that would be the reason the bit broke. Maybe the cover was not closed properly and the cut motor safety switch on the right side was still open. Do you have a dust collector which could be holding the cover up?

[Sliverfoot]

yea I do have a dust collector. I sometimes have to "slap" the cover down and hit enter., but it always prompts me when it's needed.

[blhutchens]

yea I do have a dust collector. I sometimes have to "slap" the cover down and hit enter., but it always prompts me when it's needed.


I broke a long carving in a similar way. It was the key pad side cover switch that was bad.
The cover was lifted to stop a carve and the left side switch was stuck in the on position. The motor stopped but the control logic kept moving the truck snapping the bit.

[bergerud]

There are two switches activated by the cover. One on the left tells the computer that the cover is open and results in the close cover prompt. The switch on the right, however, does not invoke any error message. It is a simple safety switch which which disconnects the cut motor power when the cover is open. (or not completely closed!)

I think you need to take a closer look at the DC and the right switch.

[Sliverfoot]

Ok. I'll order a new cutting bit tomorrow(after the cable company comes to check my broadband speed problem, I can use the forum but trying log in to order a bit no. only 9mbps)
What do you mean by look closer at the DC and right switch? Do I just make sure that when I close the cove I push it down nice and solid? I've never done any parts replacement on my machine although reading on the forum it isn't uncommon.

[bergerud]

Make sure you can hear the switches click when you close the cover. Trim the cover some more if the DC is holding it up.

You may not have to redo your project from the start. If you delete all of the patterns and only upload the cut outs to the card, the machine will just cut out what you have already carved. It is worth a try.

[Sliverfoot]

I took the pattern out of the machine......so that probably won't work?
But could I run the pattern again tomorrow and change the cutting bit to 3/16? I have one of those.

[bergerud]

It does not matter that you took the board out. Change all the cut outs to the 3/16 cutting bit. Make sure it looks right and then delete all of the patterns. Save under a different name and upload to the card. Put your board back in and run the project just like you did before. Same choices except it will only ask for the 3/16 cutting bit. The line up may or may not be good enough for you. It is worth a try.

[bergerud]

I should have mentioned that you need to watch closely as the board is measured. Steps may need to be taken if the carved part interferes with the measurements. The board may be measured too narrow or the bit may try to touch in a carved spot.

[Sliverfoot]

I created a cutout pattern using a 3/16 bit and put the board back in. It is just a little off but it did work!
The only thing is when I changed the bit for each cut path I didn't flip the inside of the letters on the top so they are a little thinner than they should be, still looks good but I can tell it's not right. Then because of the wider bit the area between the C and the E (on the bottom) cut completely out, I had to watch closely it as it made the last cutting pass. I think the 1/8 bit would leave a little material to hold that piece in place.
I'm going to work on the turtle and the owl to try to get some of the details to show up a little better and rerun it when I get a new 1/8 cutting bit. I think I can do better , I'd like to try anyway. I know my mistakes now.
Hopefully I can figure out how to post a picture from my phone to the computer to the forum with my results.
Thanks everyone for all the help.

[Mugsowner]

Not sure of the phone you are using, but it should have a memory card or internal memory, which has to to be hooked to pc via a usb port.

[Sliverfoot]

I figured out my phone, I just needed to download a program from Samsung called Kries.
This was my second attempt at carving this. The first was done in Aspen and I wasn't happy with the detail. So I tweeked some of the patterns a little to try to get some things to show a little more.
This one was in Oak and I like it better. We've bought some acrylic paints so the next step is to sit down with a couple of brushes and give it some color.
Thank you for the help with the patterns and figuring out why I broke the 1/8" carving bit. I now hold down on the cover when it first does it's checks and starts to carve. Seems to work then.
Now my wife wants me to make a 5' version of the giraffe that's on the right end. I'm not even sure that can be done. I'll start by reading up on how to do large signs.