Cut Motor won't spin

[rflournoy]

I've read numerous articles about the cut motor but haven't seen one that specifically addresses my particular issue. In November, the last time I used my CW, I was trying to cut a lithograph on my rotary jig (PVC pipe). It worked fine, but was a little too deep, so I modified the pattern and started over. From that time on the cut motor won't spin...not when I change the bits, not when the display says it is carving the pattern. I ran the tests on the machine and it thinks the cut motor is running, but it isn't.
I'm not afraid to tear the machine apart to replace faulty parts, but at less than 250 hrs. that doesn't seem like the thing to do yet. To answer a few questions in advance, Yes, I've taken the top cover off. Yes, I've checked the clear cover switches on both sides. Yes, I've checked the wire connections. All seem to be in order.
Any ideas what might be going on?

[fwharris]

Did you check the brushes in the motor? Also check the X termination board on the bottom of the machine. It is the board the cut motor wiring is attached to. Inspect for signs of burnt components or broken wire leads.

[rflournoy]

I haven't checked the x term board, but will do that. Can you check brushes without disassembling the motor???

(Two days later)...I checked the x termination board...no visible problems, put the bottom back on and ran the x, y, and z tests. All were fine, ran the cut motor test and the darn thing worked. I didn't change anything, didn't disconnect or reconnect anything, didn't try to fix anything, and it now works. I don't get it, but won't complain. It's back to carving for me. thanks for all the help!

[blhutchens]

Yes you can. you need a flat blade screwdriver or a dime to pull the brush covers on the side of the motor.

[SteveNelson46]

You should start with the easiest and most obvious first. I would start by checking the cover switch on the side opposite of the keypad (right side). The right side cover switch is on the return path of the cut motor and acts as a safety switch. The left side tells the computer if the cover is open. Sometimes the switches go bad but, most of the time it's just a loose screw or loose wiring. Also, the cover screws could be loose and not allowing the plastic tab to completely depress the switch. Search this forum for "Cover Switch" for more info.

Here is a link to the video on how to check and/or replace the cut-motor brushes.

http://www.carvewright.com/support-page/maintenance/#replace_brushes

[fwharris]

I haven't checked the x term board, but will do that. Can you check brushes without disassembling the motor???

There are two plastic screw caps (one on top, one on bottom) on the wiring end of the motor. Try to use a thick tipped screw driver and press the screw driver firmly into the slot. Some are very tight so you might end up stripping the slot out. If so you can cut/grind a deeper slot to get a better bite.

You can inspect the top brush with the motor installed in the machine. Best to take the top cover of to so.

[henry1]

There are two plastic screw caps (one on top, one on bottom) on the wiring end of the motor. Try to use a thick tipped screw driver and press the screw driver firmly into the slot. Some are very tight so you might end up stripping the slot out. If so you can cut/grind a deeper slot to get a better bite.

You can inspect the top brush with the motor installed in the machine. Best to take the top cover of to so.
You can use a silver dollar work great

[xchief807]

I had the same problem. I took off the bottom cover and took the wires off the green X termination board and put them back on. I made sure they were on tight put the cover back on and its been good ever since.

[fwharris]

You can use a silver dollar work great

Henry,

Now that is an expensive screw driver. I've got mine locked up in the safe.

[henry1]

Henry,

Now that is an expensive screw driver. I've got mine locked up in the safe.

LMAO that is a good one

[Digitalwoodshop]

If you use a thin screwdriver then you can split the cap like I did being in a hurry.... :)

[ktjwilliams]

Brushes ,,, Change em ...

[Digitalwoodshop]

When I change my brushes I write the hours on the machine just for easy access and I check from time to time. At 250 cut hours I change them along with the Y gear box 685ZZ Bearings.

I believe LHR has them in stock. I have never recieved back the ones I loaned when they were out so I am not sure.

AL

[dltccf]

I'm having cut motor won't spin porblems also. I had the cut motor quit on me exactly between projects. literally finished one project just fine, took it out and put the next one in and the cut motor wouldn't spin for anything. I ran the cut motor test and it failed the test. So I read the forum and started through the list of things to check. tested the cover switch, it was fine. I tested the motor and it would run fine with the direct application of 12AC. I had replaced the brushes at 250 hours and I am now up to 425 so I checked them and they seem Ok. So I ordered a replacement X Term board. I got it and installed it and ran the cut motor test and it passed. Wonderful, I put in a project and it carved beautifully for about 10 minutes and stopped. Now the cut motor won't run and I am back to square one. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

dave

[Digitalwoodshop]

Look at the X Termination Board for burnt components. Sometimes a bad but motor causes a X Termination board to burn up.

Melted inside the cut motor....

AL

[dltccf]

I removed the new x termination board and looked it over, no obvious burns. I put all the connectors back and tried again. not working. I started back at the beginning and checked the switch. I see 33 volts ac across the 2 white wires that go to the cover switch. Is that right? I was expecting 120 ac.

[mikemi]

I had the same thing happen to me last week. Turned out to be the brushes were too worn. I put in a new set and have not had any problems since.

Mike

[dltccf]

Ok, I'm a big boy and can admit when I made and assumption and that assumption turned out to be wrong and made me look stupid. I admit I only checked the top brush for wear on the cut motor and assumed they were about the same. After your last post mikemi I decided to go ahead and pull out the cut motor and check the bottom brush. Sure enough it was considerably more worn than the top. Even more worn than the originals when I changed them at 250 hours. So I found the originals and selected the least worn and replaced the bottom brush. I put everything back together and things are working spinningly (yeah I just made that word up).

Looks like I will be ordering replacement brushes this week.

Moral of the story, don't make assumptions and save yourself two weeks of frustration.

dave

[Gary Koval]

Check the wires under the top where they plug into the cut motor, the barrel type connectors, have been a source of problems for me until I held one carefully with pliers and pushed the second in securely. Just a thoughtGary

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good job getting it fixed.

AL

[dltccf]

Good job getting it fixed.

AL

Thanks, now if we could only fix that thing where it only breaks right when you need to get something done part that would be awesome. :-)