Clear Board Sensor

[Lrupri57]

I am getting the famed Clear Board Sensor. After talking to a person at Carvewright, I replaced the sensor, I get a sensor reading of 151. While looking through the menu at other things I noticed Edge Detection Error E03 - 0400. I have tried putting a better light above it as some people suggest (the reading of 151 suggests that this is not the problem). The firmware at this time 1.182.09788 seconday revision 7. Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks.

[unitedcases]

I am getting the famed Clear Board Sensor. After talking to a person at Carvewright, I replaced the sensor, I get a sensor reading of 151. While looking through the menu at other things I noticed Edge Detection Error E03 - 0400. I have tried putting a better light above it as some people suggest (the reading of 151 suggests that this is not the problem). The firmware at this time 1.182.09788 seconday revision 7. Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks.
Check for pinched wires going from the board sensor up to the circuit board on the back of the truck.

[fwharris]

Load a wide board in the machine and crank the head down. Go to the sensor check for the board sensor reading and observe the reading as you move the head across the board. The reading should stay constant across the board. If it jumps around or drops to zero it is probably a break in the FFC cable. Most common spot is right at the black support bracket.

[Lrupri57]

I did as you suggested, placed a nice 11 1/2 wide board in the machine and went to the sensor read out, the reading stayed at 144 to 145 across and back several times dropping to zero as it cleared the edge of the board. When I hit stop, the Edge Detection Failed Err E03-0400 came up again.

[unitedcases]

I did as you suggested, placed a nice 11 1/2 wide board in the machine and went to the sensor read out, the reading stayed at 144 to 145 across and back several times dropping to zero as it cleared the edge of the board. When I hit stop, the Edge Detection Failed Err E03-0400 came up again.
Did you check for pinched wires?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Likely it is a bad FFC Cable. Another test is to place the head in the middle of the board and with your hand move the FFC Cable gently. Due to the design of the FFC Cable being FLAT copper in plastic, it can snap wires then touch and not touch as it is moved and is very hard to catch... Replace the cable.... You should always order a FFC Cable with a board sensor and cut motor brushes too....

And I even recommend buying 2 board detectors and one of the 4 wire board sensor cables as it is common to get a intermittant pinched wire as you tug the board sensor cable down to change the sensor. 3 or my 4 machines had this fault as the wires get pinched on the side of the sharp edge of the wire track and cause problems from zero readings to a open cover when the 5 volts gets shorted to ground.

You can use the extra cable for troubleshooting, plugging in a new sensor on top to test for a short. Also a bear wire on the FFC Cable can touch the fins of the Y and cause ZERO readings too.

AL

[Lrupri57]

Okay, I have to upgrade my machine to the 14 pin Z-Motor Bundle to replace the FCC cable and Head Connector Board, I also ordered two new board sensor cables, what the heck, a spare Board Tracking Encoder Assembly also. Hopefully all this will correct the problem.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Make sure to change the 2 circuit boards too as the wider 14 pin will short out the older 18 pin socket and smoke your computer... $300.00 + fix...

And the machine will start up in Scan Area and you will need to go in and select Cover as the source for the Probe Data from the Truck. Until then you can't move forward in the software.

Good Luck,

AL

[Lrupri57]

Yes, the upgrade covered that. When I went to purchase the FCC cable I seen the warning not to purchase the 14 pin cable for the A machine so I called them. I then found out by looking at a PDF file that I had the 16 pin cable and you can not purchase the 16 pin cable any more so I had to buy the upgrade bundle which I did. Thank's

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good job... And remember the machine will be locked in "scan area" until you change the setting after you change the circuit boards.

[Lrupri57]

I printed out the PDF file for changing to the upgrade. I checked it out and seen the note about verifying that the probe connection is correct and it covers the part about the scan probe being on cover instead of "Z" truck. I'm guessing that the was the reason I was unable to get my probe working, probably set on the wrong one at the time.

[Lrupri57]

I disassembled the parts I needed for the upgrade according to the upgrade PDF file, just awaiting the parts now. The sensor cable was indeed pinched between the guard and the wire trench, have two cables coming.

[Lrupri57]

Interesting thing I noticed while I was looking at the pictures that was on your reply. If something is hard to discern (as in the number of wires in a cable), by taking a picture and the blowing it up on the computer it becomes a whole lot clearer, I'll have to remember that.

[Digitalwoodshop]

18 pins in the first 2007 FFC cable and 14 in the upgrade.

Extra wires were for the now gone...

Z Truck homing sensor
Another Magnetic speed sensor
Probe data at the truck

[Lrupri57]

In preperation to replace the sensor cable, do you take off the Z truck by removing the top roller with a wrench (in your picture, only one is removed)? It appears that is the case in your pictures but I don't want to assume anything and damage something. If that is the case, is it counter clockwise?

[Digitalwoodshop]

Normally you turn the top rollers as you will notice the top rollers are pinch rollers and the hole is offset. Designed to be turned to pinch down on the rails.

It is likely you will damage the screw heads removing or when you loosen the bearings. They are soft screws. They are metric. Somewhere is a PDF on the procedure and yes, you will need to remove the Y Truck. As for turning the nut... In my picture of the Z truck, moving the wrench down or clockwise as you look at the picture from the head of the screw too loosen.

The best trick is to hold the screw head with a new screwdriver and turn the nut. You may need to drill out the screw head after stripping as I needed to so after I stripped the screw. That is why the bearing is missing.

AL

[Lrupri57]

Hhmmm, If I push the Y truck down that is in your picture with the belt removed I can get to the screw for the top pinch roller of the Z truck. Are you saying this screw is left hand threads and you have to turn clockwise to remove????

[Lrupri57]

Looked at the PDF file, removed the belt fastner end on the mount, two small phillips screws. Turned the pinch roller adjustment nuts to open the gap, the whole unit came off clean, should be easy to change cable. 71714

[Digitalwoodshop]

Good job so far.... That little white cable gets pulled off, it's glued and may snap the circuit board inside the Z Truck but it is no longer used. The new 14 pin board won't have anything to plug that cable into.

AL

[Lrupri57]

After all that, it did not change a thing. Scan option was cover. Took extra care with the cables, printed out the PDF file for changing to the 14 wire cable and how to lace it, all went well, new sensor cable was installed (sensor is new). Turned unit on, went through the steps (rollers), next thing came up was (Clear Bd Sensor). Went to sensor reading, it was as before a reading of 140, ran back and forth over the board, never varied by more then 1. Everything is new, sensor, sensor cable and the Z-Motor Pack including a new FCC Cable and Head Connector Board.

[mikemi]

The same thing happens to me once in awhile. I just put a strip of wide masking tape across the board. Make sure the tape is then under the sensor and it usually does the trick for me.
Mike

[bergerud]

When exactly in the measuring routine do you get the clear board sensor error?

[Lrupri57]

Error comes up after asking to stay under rollers or not, goes to "Measuring Board", error comes back "Clear Board Sensor. This happens with or without masking tape that is across the board and directly under the sensor. Sensor reading is 140/141 as the sensor is pushed back and across the board, drops to zero as it passes far side. The reading never goes to zero as the sensor is brought to the keyboard side. Thought I might have to go to the calibation menu and do the "Edge Sensor" calibration, I then get "Edge Detection Failed" error code E03-0400. This is what I was getting before I put all new stuff listed below. I tried to take extra care replacing the cables, I might also mention that I was a equipment and electronics repair journeyman for Whirlpool Corporation for 37 years, so I have done similar work before.

[bergerud]

So the clear board sensor error occurs right away at the keypad edge of the board?

If so, do you get non zero readings for thick boards or only thin ones?

[Digitalwoodshop]

This reminds me of the 4th machine I bought broken... Troubleshooting on here like you He replaced the FFC Cable and board sensor. Right off the bat problems with the board sensor and the board sensor cable was good. I asked him to change the FFC Cable again and he got frustrated and sold the machine to me... So I get it and sure enough, the FFC Cable was ripped... ever so slightly.... It was installed slightly short and the first time the head went to the Bit Plate it pulled tight and ripped the cable... It touched and not touched driving him nuts... I replaced the cable making the top slightly longer and it worked... So the lesson here is that it is possible that the FFC Cable is bad NOW.... Use a piece of white copy paper to test the board sensor. Cranked down you should get a 156. I mention this because it IS possible that your board sensor has a dirty internal lens.... Causing reflection.... and number problems.... I had that problem a while back and posted about it when I was in the middle of cutting all that plastic about 3 weeks ago. It could be a referbished board sensor.... Cut the back flap off the sensor and pulled the lens and cleaned then sealed with masking tape.

[Lrupri57]

I agree, should have bought two FCC cables. I am going to order two more FCC cable. Before I replace the one I have now installed I am going to just hook up the new one to see if it get's beyond the error at "Measuring Board", I will of course stop it before it has a chance to damage it self. Do you recommend anything else, I did get a new unit with the brass roller. The reading with the paper was 140 also. enclosed is a picture of the FCC cable lacing installation, it was not in a stretch/taut problem.


71783

[bergerud]

If you tested the board sensor as you moved it across the board and the readings did not jump, it is probably not the FFC wire. I thought you replaced it anyway. I think your problem may have to do with homing or board sensor readings at the keypad side of the board. Does the truck move all the way and hit the keypad side when it homes? How is the black paint on the squaring plate?

As a test, put some black electrical tape along the edge of the board and see if it then measures the board.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Order another board sensor too....

[Lrupri57]

Already did that, still have another new one.

[aokweld101]

by looking at your picture at the FCC cable I would suggest pulling the cable off the cooling ribs so that you don't wear the cable on the cooling ribs

[Lrupri57]

If and when I get it going again I was planning to tape it to the back of the Z motor on final dress up, along with liquid nail glue where cables were originally glued.

[Lrupri57]

Major Clue: During a sensor reading check, the reading does not go to zero when the sensor is above the edge of the board on the panel side. I moved the board towards the far side untill it went to zero, brought in the far guide and clamped up. I then went to the project menu, picked a project and everything went as normal untill it wanted to move the board and then it brought up the error for being off the tracking roller which it should. The board was about 1/2 inch away from the panel side before the sensor went to zero. Could a sensor alignment be off this much to cause this?

[Digitalwoodshop]

THAT was a clue to ME when the reading did not go to Zero when off the board and I found dust inside the window and the LED Light was reflecting off the dust giving a reading when it should not have been. Change the sensor.... inspect the senor and look for dust inside the senor and look for missing components on the board.

[Lrupri57]

Absolutely, although the unit has never worked since the sensor was changed, I guess that is a clue also. Sensor does seem to be the major suspect now. I set a Email to CW to ask them to add two more sensors to my order for the FCC cables, I'll have to use the spare I have now to replace the one in the machine. I did look earlier for dust or other things to give me a bad read. The thing that bothers me that dust in the sensor should stay bad as a sensor reading on or off the board and I did inspect it when I changed the sensor cable. I do agree that you are right that the sensor is the most likely suspect and the easiest to change and which can be done while awaiting for the new order.

[Digitalwoodshop]

This is where having a spare sensor and a spare 4 wire board sensor cable is good to have... I believe you do. You plug in the sensor and cable on TOP of the machine and see what changes...

Good Luck,

AL

[bergerud]

Major Clue: During a sensor reading check, the reading does not go to zero when the sensor is above the edge of the board on the panel side. I moved the board towards the far side untill it went to zero, brought in the far guide and clamped up. I then went to the project menu, picked a project and everything went as normal untill it wanted to move the board and then it brought up the error for being off the tracking roller which it should. The board was about 1/2 inch away from the panel side before the sensor went to zero. Could a sensor alignment be off this much to cause this?

This was why I asked if it was homing properly. The carriage should go all the way to the keypad side and actually hit. This is when the zero of the y coordinates is defined. It could be that something is stopping the carriage from going all the way to the left when it homes. (If you had tried the electrical tape, it would also have worked.)

The machine expects to find the board edge close to where it has decided zero is. If it does not, you get the error. Zero being in the wrong place is the same as the board being in the wrong place.

(I think it has to be either the zero problem or you have a scratched up squaring plate which reflects the sensor signal.)

[Lrupri57]

Negative on both, carriage goes all the way to the panel side, checked that early on, no scratches on squaring plate, no dust under or built up in that area. I had actually had put a paint stripe on the roller track some time ago to show when it was all the way to the panel side, it has actually carved a lot of boards since then. I have had this machine for almost seven years and I am aware of some of those problems. When I placed the board inboard towards the far side about a 1/2 inch (where it dropped to zero) it was willing to accept this (did not give clear sensor board error), went to measure board (width) then it went to move the belt drive to check length and thats when it came up with the tracking roller error as it was so far away from the panel side guide that it was off the tracking roller. Again, this was how far I had to move it to get the sensor reading to go from 141 to zero.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just for the heck of it... Remove the Y Servo dust cover and peek... I found my encoder was collecting dust.... This is a strange problem...

[bergerud]

Negative on both, carriage goes all the way to the panel side, checked that early on, no scratches on squaring plate, no dust under or built up in that area. I had actually had put a paint stripe on the roller track some time ago to show when it was all the way to the panel side, it has actually carved a lot of boards since then. I have had this machine for almost seven years and I am aware of some of those problems. When I placed the board inboard towards the far side about a 1/2 inch (where it dropped to zero) it was willing to accept this (did not give clear sensor board error), went to measure board (width) then it went to move the belt drive to check length and thats when it came up with the tracking roller error as it was so far away from the panel side guide that it was off the tracking roller. Again, this was how far I had to move it to get the sensor reading to go from 141 to zero.

Well, I guess all that is left is that the board sensor is defective. It seems to be operating sideways. Very strange.

[Lrupri57]

You are sure right, it is very strange. But thinking about it, the original sensor did fail and the sensor reading went to zero. When the sensor was changed, the problem cropped up. I will be pulling the sensor out soon to inspect it and replace it, I'll be crossing my fingers..................................

[Lrupri57]

This gets stranger and stranger. I went to the sensor reading and pushed the truck across to see where it dropped to zero, the sensor was centered directly above the board edge, so much for a off set sensor. I then decided to see if I could run the sensor calibration. I put the tape on the board edge to fool the clear sensor. The unit went to measure the board width (OK) then it went to measure the length (OK) came back and then gave a Z axis stall........................OUCH

[bergerud]

Did it z stall because the bit came down in the wrong place? On the board instead of beside the board. If so, back to Al's idea, maybe a loose or dirty encoder disc could explain all of this. The machine seems to be loosing track of the y position.

[Lrupri57]

Yeah, you are probably right about it coming down in the wrong place because of the tape throwing it off in the Y position. The Z drive was replaced as part of the upgrade as I could not get a new 16 wire cable. I'll have to pull the sensor and change it which I knew I would probably have to do, thought I could get more experience at looking at these things before I shotgun it with changes trying to get it to work without knowing for sure what the fault is.

[bergerud]

I do not think it would bob in the wrong place because of the tape. It is supposed to define zero when it hits the end of travel and bob relative to that. The touch at the brass roller should be independent of where the board is. Could the y belt be slipping when it homes? It may worth taking a look at the y encoder.

[Lrupri57]

Machine is carving as I write, changed the sensor and it went through most steps and then had a Y error. Put the 3/8 bit in and did the calibration tests. Put a board in that I wanted to carve and it is doing that now. THANK'S EVERBODY!!!!!!!!

[Digitalwoodshop]

Machine is carving as I write, changed the sensor and it went through most steps and then had a Y error. Put the 3/8 bit in and did the calibration tests. Put a board in that I wanted to carve and it is doing that now. THANK'S EVERBODY!!!!!!!!

Good Job !!!

AL

[bergerud]

Machine is carving as I write, changed the sensor and it went through most steps and then had a Y error. Put the 3/8 bit in and did the calibration tests. Put a board in that I wanted to carve and it is doing that now. THANK'S EVERBODY!!!!!!!!

We need closure on this!! Was it the board sensor or a y calibration number gone rogue?

[Lrupri57]

I beleve it was the sensor because it allowed me to go a little farther. But also I found out that I then got a Y axis stalled error occasionally that was caused by the Y motor pulley sometimes rubbing on the back of the Z truck (close clearance there) moved the pulley in a little bit and that went away. I went ahead and did the calibration check because I never did that after changing from sand paper board drive to the rubber belts. Okay, the board I cut came through running in the Best Quality mode great. I have to go back in and glue the things that should be glued. This all started because I got sick of our norther winter last year and I bought a place in Florida (stole really - estate sale $13,00071859), all the manufactured double wide homes have sign's in from of their places with their names and where they are from. Now you just know I had to make my own, hence tackling th CW once again.

[Lrupri57]

What light color wood do you recommend that will hold detail, I've heard Maple as it can be gotten at most places like Menards or Lowes?

[CW-HAL9000]

Maple is great, I very often use a knot free pine from lowes or Home Depot. There is a Southern Pine or Lowes also calls it a Radiata Pine which is Knot free and tighter grain. In some areas of the country people use Poplar but in my part of the country I find it is too soft and when carved it leaves an abundance of "fuzzies". I would say 70% of my flea market and craft fair carves are knot free pine because of its low cost.

[Lrupri57]

I picked up a new but probably older Craftsman carvewright from a pawn shop for a decent price. It still had the plastic on the cover, most of the items were bagged in the box. I loaded a project on the new card and placed it in the machine. I decided to check the cutter power cable to make sure it was lubricated, it came right out, the ball bearing in the detent was missing, replaced it temporaily from my other machine. I started the machine, picked the project, went through the board measuring steps, loaded the bit and it came home, returned to center, had a error message "Clear Bit Sensor" ( not clear board sensor ). Looked on line, seen where they said there were a transmitter and receiver in the truck behind the bit, that is where the belt is for the Z axis, also seen something about a mirror at the home position (No mirror on either machine). Nut's, this machine has not had a project ran through it, it is immaculate, no dust anywhere

[bergerud]

This may be an early A machine with the rpm sensor in the truck. Calling Al!

[unitedcases]

I picked up a new but probably older Craftsman carvewright from a pawn shop for a decent price. It still had the plastic on the cover, most of the items were bagged in the box. I loaded a project on the new card and placed it in the machine. I decided to check the cutter power cable to make sure it was lubricated, it came right out, the ball bearing in the detent was missing, replaced it temporaily from my other machine. I started the machine, picked the project, went through the board measuring steps, loaded the bit and it came home, returned to center, had a error message "Clear Bit Sensor" ( not clear board sensor ). Looked on line, seen where they said there were a transmitter and receiver in the truck behind the bit, that is where the belt is for the Z axis, also seen something about a mirror at the home position (No mirror on either machine). Nut's, this machine has not had a project ran through it, it is immaculate, no dust anywhere
You can take the truck off and see if there is a ribbon cable attached. Remove it. Sounds like you need to upgrade it. All that takes is changing the circuit board on the back of the z motor and the board that the y truck plugs into.

[Lrupri57]

I just did that to my other machine and I still having some Y axis issues with it. I am not to eager to do that to a new machine yet.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Yes, it sounds like a very old machine and the card likely has some very old system firmware on it hence the strange errors... DON'T put that old card in a modern machine... might break something...

Likely has the old 18 pin FFC Cable so a A907 kit is in your future as well as loading newer firmware on the card. I would recommed you stop where you are and make the changes... Like posted above, the A907 is a kit of a 14 pin FFC Cable and the NEW Circuit Boards that go on each end. NEVER plug a new 14 pin FFC Cable into the old 18 pin circuit boards as it will short out your machine KILLING IT... I stress this as I want People to remember this...

The Early units used a BIT FLAG on the Z Truck to find home... A Metal FIN and that little (Most Photographed "What is it" part of the machine as it fell off easy...)

Also in the Z Truck are another magnetic speed sensor and a jack for the Probe Data...

So all that is GONE... The machine bumps into the top mechanical stop to find home rather than the bit flag... and Probe Data is now on the Cover Jack and the redundent Speed Sensor is gone.

Hence... 18 pin down to 14 pin.... THICKER Wires the difference in my opinion of the 18 pin being a AA Battery and the 14 pin being a D Battery in Electrical PUSH for the Z Motor. We got a lot of Z Stalls in 2007....

Watch your finger in that BIT FLAG... I got pinched more than once..

INSPECT the CUT MOTOR.... Especially the FACE where the Flex Pluggs in.... IF you find Hairline CRACKS.... NOW is the time to JB Weld the top to hold it together. The Cut Motor gets damaged moving the unit with the FLEX installed.... You can prevent a failure now... The Shipping Box and the Flex sometimes don't get along...

Also the Cut Motor will likely SPIT OUT the speed magnet.... The fix is to send the motor to LHR to install the plastic retainer... Soon you will get CCM check Cut Motor all the time.

Good Luck,

AL

Pictures... I call the old FFC a 16 pin... I couldn't count..... went on for a year before someone said... Hey.... it's 18...
The soft underbelly... You can remove that cable AFTER you upgrade to the 14 pin. The Circuit Board can stay for NOW....

[Digitalwoodshop]

Just had another thought.... The Z Truck.... In the EARLY versions with the holes for the Z Sensor and the Probe Data had a THIN Casting in the lower right Z Rail Bearing. The V Shaped Bearing Screw Head would SPLIT the Casting... The FIX and it worked GREAT until LHR made a new casting with the holes filled in AND a thicker Casting in that area... LHR used a black WASHER to take the STRESS OFF the casting.... When you order parts ask for one.....

Honestly you got a really GREAT Find.... If you address the issues before you break the machine you will be fine.... LHR might be able to shed some light on the machine based on the serial number...

See Pictures...

AL

[Lrupri57]

Enclosed some picures of the machine, as you can see, it is new. I checked the casings with a mirror and light, no problems.


7201772018

[lynnfrwd]

I am getting the famed Clear Board Sensor. After talking to a person at Carvewright, I replaced the sensor, I get a sensor reading of 151. While looking through the menu at other things I noticed Edge Detection Error E03 - 0400. I have tried putting a better light above it as some people suggest (the reading of 151 suggests that this is not the problem). The firmware at this time 1.182.09788 seconday revision 7. Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks.

Did you upgrade to 1.187? You need to remove 1.182 through your control panel first.

[lynnfrwd]

Did you upgrade to 1.187? You need to remove 1.182 through your control panel first.

Never mind...I'm only 3 or so weeks behind.

[Lrupri57]

No, I am still running 1.182. Just thinking, I had better see what is on the machine. Uploadng a project from 1.182 on to a older memory card then to the machine that has something else on it. In the morning I'll check the machine and then do as you say and clear the designer software 1.182 and load 1.187 and then see what happens.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Curious how many cut motor hours on the machine? Expect less than 10 for factory testing... Did see something that peeked my interest... The Y gearbox has a screw slot for a Z spring screw. Thought that was unusual... normal Y gearboxes don't have that screw hole. Most of my machines do as I used a Z Gearbox to fix a bad bearing Y gearbox way back in 2007/8 before I changed bearings.

Watch out for that metal bit flag on the left side of the Z as it is a finger pincher.

Good Luck with it... a really GREAT FIND.

AL

[lynnfrwd]

Didn't i see you purchased 3.0?

[Lrupri57]

Yes, you are right, I do have 3.0. I had done the project in Designer 1.182 and up loaded it to the new card. I checked the machine this morning and the firmware is 1.182, firmware build 0123:181602, Secondary rev. 8. The cut time is 0 hrs and 30 minutes, total power on time 2 hrs and 8 minutes, servoing time 0 hrs and 45 minutes with scan time 0 hrs 0 minutes.

[lynnfrwd]

Yes, you are right, I do have 3.0. I had done the project in Designer 1.182 and up loaded it to the new card. I checked the machine this morning and the firmware is 1.182, firmware build 0123:181602, Secondary rev. 8. The cut time is 0 hrs and 30 minutes, total power on time 2 hrs and 8 minutes, servoing time 0 hrs and 45 minutes with scan time 0 hrs 0 minutes.

Make sure you go into your control panel and remove 1.182 before uploading 3.0. You can also upload 1.187 after that if you want it, too.

[Lrupri57]

Are you saying to remove 1.182 from the machine before I put the memory card in it. I flashed the memory card to 3.0 and that is as far as I have gone? I have both 1.182 and 3.0 designer on my computer and I loaded my project into 3.o and then uploaded it to the memory card, again, that is as far as I have gone, I have not put the card in the machine yet.

[fwharris]

Are you saying to remove 1.182 from the machine before I put the memory card in it. I flashed the memory card to 3.0 and that is as far as I have gone? I have both 1.182 and 3.0 designer on my computer and I loaded my project into 3.o and then uploaded it to the memory card, again, that is as far as I have gone, I have not put the card in the machine yet.

What Connie is saying is, to upgrade 1.182 to 1.187 you will need to un install 1.182 on your computer before installing 1.187. This is the first I've heard that you have to uninstall before installing the newest versions, 2.xxx or 3.xxx.

You are good to go with what you did for flashing the new firmware (3.0) to the card. No issues there.

[Lrupri57]

Machine is now carving........Why I can not say. Possibly the software up date or when I went to load the card the first time it warned that the cut edge was to close to the board and I decided to try it anyway and stop it before cutting. When I had it in 3.0 I move the cut edge farther in before I loaded to the card (did not get the warning this time) SO................

[lynnfrwd]

Machine is now carving........Why I can not say. Possibly the software up date or when I went to load the card the first time it warned that the cut edge was to close to the board and I decided to try it anyway and stop it before cutting. When I had it in 3.0 I move the cut edge farther in before I loaded to the card (did not get the warning this time) SO................

That is great news. Remember while creating your project to leave at least .5" from the top of your project board. That is the edge that goes over the tracking roller. I usually design my projects with at least .5" inside of all edges.

[Lrupri57]

I once saw a system error on the machine when I first turned it on the first time. It said system error 81 which I could not find out with a search?

[fwharris]

If the cut out warning message was about interference with the brass roller and you continued the machine will do the cut out BUT will not cut out over the area of the brass roller to avoid any cutting into the brass roller.

[Digitalwoodshop]

In the picture you can see where the arch cut path lift the bit at the brass roller leaving a un cut area about the thickness of the tabs.

[Lrupri57]

Is that what system error 81 is, a cut out warning. On my original error , "Clear Bit Sensor" is that why the machine would not go any farther, because it knew the cut edge was too close to the brass roller? After correcting the edge on the project and flashing the memory card to 3.0 I did not get the "Clear Bit Sensor" warning and the machine proceeding to carve. I'm tempted to upload the original project again to see if I get that error again, it would be nice to know. I seen where some people mentioned sensors and a mirror having something to do with that error, I never found the sensors or mirror on my two machines. Go figure...........