Y axis Got Lost

[carlbeck]

My Y axis got lost. The attached picture shows what happens when the Y axis looses registration. I remove the Y-Motor the removed the Back Plastic cover from the Encoder. I then cleaned the little Plastic Encoder disk with a Q-Tip. I waited to do another carving before I posted this and it worked fine. How did I know to do this? About a year ago I had the same problem and when I contacted Carvewright Technical support I was instructed to do this. It seems the seal of the encoder plastic cover still allows dust to get inside the encoder.

[CW-HAL9000]

Thats great information, thanks.

[cestout]

thank you
Clint

[dbemus]

Thanks for sharing great advice!
D Bemus

[scootertrash]

My Y axis got lost. The attached picture shows what happens when the Y axis looses registration. I remove the Y-Motor the removed the Back Plastic cover from the Encoder. I then cleaned the little Plastic Encoder disk with a Q-Tip. I waited to do another carving before I posted this and it worked fine. How did I know to do this? About a year ago I had the same problem and when I contacted Carvewright Technical support I was instructed to do this. It seems the seal of the encoder plastic cover still allows dust to get inside the encoder.

I'm having some Y axis trouble but haven;t been able to really address it much due to a death in the family and then a wedding. Lemme say I'm sick of driving!!

I'll hear it skip but only on the very second pass of the bit. And only on red oak (as opposed to poplar, the only other I generally use). I retensioned the Y belt and it still does it. I reckon I'll post my own thread on it to get advice.

[SteveNelson46]

I'm having some Y axis trouble but haven;t been able to really address it much due to a death in the family and then a wedding. Lemme say I'm sick of driving!!

I'll hear it skip but only on the very second pass of the bit. And only on red oak (as opposed to poplar, the only other I generally use). I retensioned the Y belt and it still does it. I reckon I'll post my own thread on it to get advice.

Check the Y axis gear assembly for missing teeth.

[scootertrash]

Check the Y axis gear assembly for missing teeth.

Sounds like a good idea, and i will check, but I have to ask: Wouldn't issing teeth cause the problem no matter what wood I use? It *only* happens with red oak ( as opposed to poplar, the only other wood I've used) and *only* on the very first pass that moves the bit away from the keypad side. For what it's worth, the machine only has about 100 hours on it, maybe less.

Edit: The Y belt slips/clicks when it happens. Sometimes it slips a lot, sometimes it only makes one click.

[cestout]

Then be sure you have a sharp bit. A dull bit can pull the Y off on the climb cut.
Clint

[SteveNelson46]

Sounds like a good idea, and i will check, but I have to ask: Wouldn't issing teeth cause the problem no matter what wood I use? It *only* happens with red oak ( as opposed to poplar, the only other wood I've used) and *only* on the very first pass that moves the bit away from the keypad side. For what it's worth, the machine only has about 100 hours on it, maybe less.

Edit: The Y belt slips/clicks when it happens. Sometimes it slips a lot, sometimes it only makes one click.

Also, be sure you don't have a sticky or frozen bearing on the Y truck. Turn the machine off and remove the protective caps on the bearings. Then move the Y truck back and forth by hand carefully observing how each bearing rolls. If that doesn't work you may have to remove the truck and check each bearing. In the past, I have temporarily freed up a sticky bearing by putting a few drops of chain lube with molly on the bearing and work it in. It might work until you can get a new set of bearings.

[Digitalwoodshop]

Sounds like a good idea, and i will check, but I have to ask: Wouldn't issing teeth cause the problem no matter what wood I use? It *only* happens with red oak ( as opposed to poplar, the only other wood I've used) and *only* on the very first pass that moves the bit away from the keypad side. For what it's worth, the machine only has about 100 hours on it, maybe less.

Edit: The Y belt slips/clicks when it happens. Sometimes it slips a lot, sometimes it only makes one click.


This is the simple clue that solves it for me... "CLICK".... Anytime you get a CLICK... in the "Y" it is the Y Gearbox Bearings and likely the shaft worn thin.

The fix... 2 new bearings... 685ZZ Metric and likely a new Shaft Gear from LHR. See very old order for part number for the Y Gear. Prices have gone up.

Or replace the Y Gearbox...

AL

[scootertrash]

This is the simple clue that solves it for me... "CLICK".... Anytime you get a CLICK... in the "Y" it is the Y Gearbox Bearings and likely the shaft worn thin.

The fix... 2 new bearings... 685ZZ Metric and likely a new Shaft Gear from LHR. See very old order for part number for the Y Gear. Prices have gone up.

Or replace the Y Gearbox...

AL

Honestly, I think the click is from the belt slipping but I'm not sure.

If i have to replace gears or bearings at 100 hours I will be more than a little upset. Good thing I don't have time to deal with it right now.

[unitedcases]

Every time I have ever gotten a click in the Y it's from me trying to squeeze every penny out of a dull carving bit. So if your bearings are good that's the route I would go.

[cestout]

On the lubing of the rollers: I used to use 3 in 1 oil but they got gummy with the wood flour. I switched to regularly squrting WQD40 on all the rollers (put a couple of paper grocery bags over the belts ) and working them. Been about 2 years and neveer a roller problem and the Y gear box seems to hold up better.
Clint

[scootertrash]

This is the simple clue that solves it for me... "CLICK".... Anytime you get a CLICK... in the "Y" it is the Y Gearbox Bearings and likely the shaft worn thin.

The fix... 2 new bearings... 685ZZ Metric and likely a new Shaft Gear from LHR. See very old order for part number for the Y Gear. Prices have gone up.

Or replace the Y Gearbox...

AL

I finally found time to get to looking at the machine and I didn't see any wear on the gears or broken teeth (per a different reply). Now that the lid is back on I come here and see I should check the shaft. Good thing i checked back in because I must have loosened the lid switch wiring and have to go back in and fuss with that.

Which bearings are you referring to? The ones on the head truck (whatever you call the assembly that rides the Y rails) or is there one somewhere in the Y gears?

I did a Google search for those bearings and found them for a whopping two bucks each.

[Digitalwoodshop]

The Y and Z Gearbox have 2 of the little 685ZZ Bearing in each. The z will last forever but the Y gets a pretty good workout going back and forth. They wear out and freeze and then spin on the little platic gear and wear it thin.

Look close at the area closest to the big gear for wear. It is recommended that you change the 2 bearings in the Y with the Cut Motor Brushes at 250 cut hours for more trouble free operation.

AL

[scootertrash]

The Y and Z Gearbox have 2 of the little 685ZZ Bearing in each. The z will last forever but the Y gets a pretty good workout going back and forth. They wear out and freeze and then spin on the little platic gear and wear it thin.

Look close at the area closest to the big gear for wear. It is recommended that you change the 2 bearings in the Y with the Cut Motor Brushes at 250 cut hours for more trouble free operation.

AL

Thanks.

I was unpleasantly surprised to see about half a dozen marks on the bearing end of the shaft where it was obviously tapped out of the bearing before. Why would they be there on a new machine? I've never taken that apart, let alone removed it from the machine. What I do know is you'll get a Y-axis failure when you forget to plug the Y motor back in lololol.

Another thought is perhaps the screw on the "blet tension adjuster" may have been not tigtened enough (I know it doesn't tension the belt but y'all know what part I mean)